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Silly question on Lye temp with Goat's milk and CP


firegirl

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I'm pretty new at GM myself but the last time I made GM what I did was mix my lye and aloe juice together first. I do a 40/60 solution of aloe juice and GM. I let it sit for about 6 or 7 hours on my front porch to cool. During this time I melted my hard oils and let them cool as well. I then mixed my other oils with the hard oils and let sit for about 2 hours. I keep my GM in the fridge. After my oils are at RT I then poured in my cold GM and stick blended them together. After I got them mixed well, I added my cool lye solution mixed to trace and then added my FO. After everything was mixed and I poured into my mold I then refridgerated it over night. IT turned out really really nice. It turned dark but that was as it was curing over the last week it got very very dark however I think thats because of the FO I used.

Kelly

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  • 15 years later...

Hi everyone, 

 

We have been making goat milk soap for 13 years without issues, but have now moved to larger batches.  Since then, we have been noticing tiny flecks of orange in our soap and can not figure this out!  We are assuming it’s a problem with the lye & milk proteins, but have not changed our soaping method.  We chop up frozen milk and add the lye slowly.  We have tried soaping at 80-90 degrees and then also 90-100.  This is still happening randomly.  Has anyone else experienced the tiny orange flecks all through the soap and might have some insight for me about what is happening here? 

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Scaling up creates lots more heat through chemical reactions than smaller batches. The orange flecks are cooked milk fats and proteins that can sometimes be filtered out before adding the lye solution to the oils. 
 

I push my milk lye solution  through a fine mesh strainer to catch most of those. It gets thick so it takes some effort. 
 

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