PurpleHippie Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 I've been trying to make Rustic pillars and would like to try one with different colors. I know that the second layer should be poured at 10-20 degrees hotter than the first so that the two stick together. So that would mean that the third layer would also be poured 10-20 degrees hotter than the second? Let's say the first was poured at 150, so after it has set up a bit but not totally cooled I would poke relief holes and pour the second color at 160-170(10-20 degrees hotter than the first). Last step would be to pour the final color at 170-180 which is 10-20 degrees hotter than the second? Would pouring this hot make the candle not have a Rustic look on the layers that were poured hotter? Also, do I poke relief holes again after the second layer is poured? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Pour each layer around 150-155, before the previous layer is too set - here's a link which may help you: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3538&highlight=layered+rusticsDon't poke any relief holes until after the entire candle is poured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 I pour my layers at pretty much the same temp...maybe 5* higher. If the wax is poured at anything higher that 160-165*, I lose the rustic look. I also pour before the prev layer is too firm like Judy does and the layers meld together nicely.Made a set a few days ago and poured at 170*, didn't get much frosting but did get nice rustic effect. I have a few pics in the gallery - the pillars were all poured at 160* and they came out nice...well, I think they are nice and my arm is sore from patting myself on the back:pIt really comes down to your personal taste. Pour one at the 150-155 range, if it isn't what you want then up the temp a little and go from there till you get exactly what your looking for.i'm in the middle of pouring a set of multi-layer purple rustics now and will post pics when they are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jami Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 I have been reading for a while about making the rustic pillars. I haven't gotten up the courage to try them yet because I want to have it laid out in my sometimes warped mind how to do it BEFORE I do it.The one thing that I can't get my feeble brain around is if the first two layers are set up by the time the relief holes are poked, how do you poke them? The only thing I can come up with is take one of my knitting needles or a metal skewer, heat it a little with a heat gun then poke so it will make it easier to poke into the candle. How exactly DO you poke the relief holes at the end?Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joym Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Let them set up until there is a skim on the top, but not totally cooled - and, yes, a knitting needle (size 12 or so) works great - can also use plastic chopsticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbanFool Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 I'm sorry this doesn't add to the OP's question, but what exactly is a "rustic" candle?Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
judyvega Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Rustics have a frosted look to them: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UrbanFool Posted May 27, 2007 Share Posted May 27, 2007 Thanks Judy! I've ended up with that a few times. Mostly, I'm too impatient to let my wax cool to end up with neat effects. (I gotta work on that.)Kelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted May 28, 2007 Author Share Posted May 28, 2007 So I poke the relief holes after I pour my very last layer then do a final pour? This may be a silly question but...my final pour should be the color of the last layer I poured or does it matter? I am just wondering if lets say the candle is yellow and blue and the last layer is blue. If I were to poke relief holes then do my final pour in blue would the blue be visible in the yellow layer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 If you poke your relief holes closer to the wick or wick pin, you aren't going to see the blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wick'n'Wax Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 you've set me off, I'm going to have a go I tried last night, poured the 2nd layer and BOOM in came my daughter running into the kitchen and knocked the mould flying, I was not best pleased!! They are under orders today, mummys pouring, stay out of the kitchen lmao.Can I ask a question please about the last layer and the relief holes.i.e. you have 1inch left in mould, do you poke relief holes then and pour final layer? or are the relief holes poured just before you do the tiny repour to fill the little hole that the contracting wax makes?Hope I've explained that well.This has gotta work, i've just ran out of stearin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cindym Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 As scented said the relief holes poked near the wick is the way to go. I poke each layer several times actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted May 28, 2007 Author Share Posted May 28, 2007 Ok, so some are poking relief holes only after the final layer is poured and others are poking holes for each layer. Does it make a difference? Pam and JudyVega your candles are very pretty. I would be pleased to make candles 1/2 as nice as yours are. Good work!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted May 28, 2007 Share Posted May 28, 2007 Just to confuse you further, I don't poke until after the final layer has started to set up (before the re-pour to fill in the holes and cavity around the wick).e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted May 29, 2007 Share Posted May 29, 2007 When I first started making pillars I'd get a lot of frosting..assuming I'd done something wrong I thru them back in the pot for a remelt. Then I found CT and discovered that people PAY for that...LOL.I pour the 2nd layer when the 1st pour has formed a thick film. Tilt the mold a little and you can see the un-set wax bulge a little under the film but not break thru. That way, if your doing different colors, the 1st color won't bleed into the 2nd color...hope this makes sense. All of this will be more clear after you've done a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted May 30, 2007 Share Posted May 30, 2007 Can I ask a question please about the last layer and the relief holes.i.e. you have 1inch left in mould' date=' do you poke relief holes then and pour final layer? or are the relief holes poured just before you do the tiny repour to fill the little hole that the contracting wax makes?Hope I've explained that well.This has gotta work, i've just ran out of stearin [/quote']I don't have a last inch left in the mold. I pour to the top, let it shrink as it hardens, grow a thick coat, whatever, then I poke with a chopstick and go through all of the layers. Make four holes around the wick/pin and let them stay open. When I make my last pour generally there's enough room for it to over flow at the top and not leave a pour line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 I made one the way Scented does and the only problem I have is that the layers don't look Rustic. I poured my first layer at 155, let a skin develop and poured my next layer at 160. The first layer sorta has a Rustic look, looks a bit like frosting to me. The next layer is totally smooth, no frosting or Rustic look at all. Should I be pouring cooler than 155 ? Maybe the mold had warmed up since the first layer was poured??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 When you go to pour the 2nd layer, the mold will still be fairly warm from the 1st layer. Here's what I do -- Just before I make that 2nd pour, I rub ice cubes on the mold right where I intend the 2nd layer to be then quickly pour before it has a chance to warm again. Might sound dorky but it works for me:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 Thanks! I would have never thought of that!!! Will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Here's something a little different. I rubbed the area of the 2nd layer with ice cubes before and after the pour. It's been a long time since I made any of these that I don't even remember the pouring temps!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 I don't alter my pouring temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrnamp Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Hello everyone, i am reading this about rustic candles and i have been reading everywhere to find info on how to do the different colors and the layers. This was very, very helpful, you guys are the best. I have a couple of questions, how do you get the shape look on the pillars do you tilt the mold when you are pouring? and also do i have to have all my different candles colors melting at the same time? i only have one presto pot. do i need to get another one? and can someone give me an idea of the best wax for pillar candles and the wick. TIA Everyone. I want to make candles for my home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 Pam -That is so pretty! Myrnamp - I am sure more of the pros here will be able to help with more information. I just wanted to say that there isn't just one type of wick for all Pillar candles. There are numerous wick types and sizes just as there are a variety of Pillar waxes. That is one of the most challenging and expensive parts of testing. Everyone has a certain favorite for one reason or another. Just make sure to use a spool wick that threads from the bottom of your mold and not a pre-tab wick that is made for use in containers. The Basic Instructions to the right of this screen where very helpful to me. You will probably be making lovely pillars in no time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 best. and also do i have to have all my different candles colors melting at the same time? i only have one presto pot. do i need to get another one? No, you don't need another presto. A 2lb pour pot is nice - that's what I use to mix my FO with the wax then pour it into several little pour pots to mix my different colors. I get these ready before I start to pour. While one layer is cooling, I set the next color in a pan of hot water and get my temp where I want it so that when that 1st layer is set, I'm ready for the next pour. I have some of those little stainless steel coffee creamers but you can use vege or coffee cans for this or even pyrex measuring cups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myrnamp Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Pam thank you for the info. one last question i promise, don i need to tilt the mold to get the look of different shape? Thank you:yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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