IndyGirl Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I have tried everything with my wax to get it to adhere to the glass. Sometimes it's different than others. I know it's a temp issue but, this last time instead of being splotchy, the adhesion was like lines. I can't figure out how to stop the wax from pulling away like this. Well at least until summer gets here and it's warmer. Any other users figured out a solution? I'm about to switch to tins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gdawg Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Indy I had to heat my jars when I was using that wax, have you tried that yet? I know its an extra step but it seemed to help for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndyGirl Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 I tried that once but, it was a pain. I know per the wax manufacturer you are supposed to but I saw no diffence when I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connie Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Heat the jars and cool slow. The only problem I have is when they are in my van when its cold out. Then I will get wet spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tami Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I have tried everything with my wax to get it to adhere to the glass. Sometimes it's different than others. I know it's a temp issue but, this last time instead of being splotchy, the adhesion was like lines. I can't figure out how to stop the wax from pulling away like this. Well at least until summer gets here and it's warmer. Any other users figured out a solution? I'm about to switch to tins!How are you cooling your candles? You might want to try putting them back in the boxes to cool. I just stack box on top of box and I usually leave them overnight and then finish them the next day. Are you talking about jump lines when you say lines? If so, I notice I have more issues with jump lines since I have been using the turkey fryer. My fryer just doesn't keep a nice even temperature and my only choices are 175 or 200, which is too hot and too cold so the wax temp fluctuates from 180 to 200. I found I just have to watch the temp real close to know if I need to pour quickly or let my wax cool for a bit before I pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndyGirl Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Yes, I don't like the temp on the turkey fryer! I don't see why it can't do the in between temps! They aren't jump lines though...I don't know what it is! They cool all huddled together on the counter. I really can't wait for summer's heat and humidity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
number2of7 Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I don't know if it will work for your wax or not, but for mine, I preheat my oven to 170 (or the lowest setting yours has)....when I'm done pouring my candles, I pop them in the oven on a cookie sheet, turn the oven off, and let them cool overnight. The next morning when I open the oven door, I have wax adhered to all sides and no sinkholes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 All good suggestions, plus pour at the recommended temps. This isn't J-223 where pouring cool is recommended. More like 175 is good. Unless you've got a freaky batch, it shouldn't be too hard to sort out this problem. 4627 is normally one of the best as far as glass adhesion is concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ilona Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I've been testing this wax this week and have 100% adhesion. This is what I've been doing:Heat wax to 175Pour in pyrex measuring glass prefilled with FO & liquid color (the small 1 cup ones as I am pouring 8oz tumblers to test). Mix for 1-2 min with my little frother/mixer. Then pour immediately into tumblers that are room temp. I checked the pour temp on one batch it was @ 140 because the FO cools the temp of the wax.I live in florida so my house (Air Conditioning - I don't need an oven, it is HOT outside.) 73 (night) 76 (day). Something to think about - when you pour at hotter temps, the wax will shrink more when cooling. The cooler you pour, the less shrinkage. It is a chemistry thing.Try pouring at 130-140 and see how that works. Don't heat glasses too much as they will overheat the wax - again causing it to contract more when cooling.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ilona Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 I took a pic of my 4627 test tumblers I poured this week so you can see the adhesion. As you can see there is not a single wet spot or pull away. Oh an excuse the bumpy top on the green one, I haven't heat gunned it yet. Best,Ilona Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizbizzyb Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Nice candles and colors - I gave up with adhesion on this wax.lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gdawg Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 beautiful candles and colors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tahlula B. Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I have been playing with this wax. I hate loading it in the melter but once it is in there all is well. BUT, in December I made several testers and lo and behold, each and every one of them had spots so bad the looked polka dotted! I haven't had time to go back and mess with it again. My guess was cold weather - is this possibly the reason? I poured at the recommended temp. They probably cooled too quickly - it is cold in my workshop. Also, I have issues with there being a small dip beside the wick. Not really a big sink hole that needs a repour but they do require a heat gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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