Michi Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Ok, I know that sounds really stupid, but I am. LOLI'm afraid of messing it up.Ok, few questions:How do you know how much fragrance oil and colorant to put in? I know you don't want to use too much colorant and that the lather should remain white, but how will you know this until you use it???Also, I bought glitter for it, how do you add it? Do you just sprinkle it in, and swirl it around or what?I've looked around but can't find real specific instructions on M&P. ??? If anyone could point me in the right direction maybe I will get the nerve to start using my supplies. I bought all these supplies to make soaps (about $150 worth) and it's all just been sitting here for about 2 weeks now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mary_jennets Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 There are recipes posted by SatinDucky on the Recipes section. Also if you search the net you'll find some more. Also try the library, they might have M&P soap books. HTHBTW what do you mean real specific instructions? Like exactly how much FO/dye to put in per pound and stuff like that? I can't remember the scent pp one because I have run out of FO and can't do that one anymore. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mary_jennets Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 http://coombssoaps.bc.ca/beauty.htmhttp://www.craftlobby.com/glycsoapmaki.htmlhttp://www.snowdriftfarm.com/form_meltandpour.htmlhttp://www.halderman.net/soap/instructions.htmhttp://www.pvsoap.com/instructionsformelt.htmhttp://www.chemistrystore.com/glycerinsoapinstruction.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Oh Michi! Just jump in, I did! Ok.. so don't look at me as an example cuz I haven't gotten it right yet... not to mention it took quite some time to clean up my mess after that first lb...LOL. Using liquid dyes, I don't think you have to worry too much about staining, not unless you're going to try making a navy blue or black or something. Then again, I may be wrong As for the FO, the M&P I have has a 3% load, meaning 1/2 oz pp, which I didn't figure out until after my second try...lol. BTW: doubling the FO will kill the suds, ask me how I know Also, if you want to add anything "non liquid" to it, you need to wait until it thickens a bit to add or keep stirring until it cools enough to thicken some. The clay and paprika both that I used settled to the bottom. It didn't look bad, just wasn't what I had intended. Look at it this way, if you don't like the way it comes out, chop it up and remelt. Oh yeah, wrap them as soon as you unmold them. The sweating is a pain Now go jump in with both feet and have fun. I'm still trying to find out if Pam is ok to coat the molds with. Oh yeah, don't put them in the freezer to help unmold unless you have to and then only for a couple minutes(not 1/2 hr!), that makes the sweating real bad.Added: Thanks for the links! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamperme Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 MP soap is really easy you just have to give it a chance..you can put 1 tablespoon per pound of FO..heavy ones put a bit less.. and color..does not usually take alot to color it..and it will be darker when it is dry than when it is wet to keep that in mind. JUMP IN AND DO IT..it is really fun..I was scared at first as well..thought I would mess it up.cut up the base in chunks and melt in microwave in pyrex cut for 30 seconds at a time..stirring inbetween..do not boiladd FO and mix..it is easier to do 1# batches at a time..for measurement sake..add dye and mix..pour into moldsput in freezer for 15 minutes..or longer if they are not set up yet or they are THICK barsset in a shallow sink of cold water for like 15-20 seconds..it will make it easier to release the soaps..just don't get water on them. pop those babies out and wrap right away since they tend to sweat esp in the heat. you can use them now..no waiting. easy easy easy..you will love it..and want to play with all types and additives once you start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linnyeg Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 I'd suggest spritzing them w/ rubbing alcohol right after you pour them into the molds. It disperses the bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pamperme Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 I'd suggest spritzing them w/ rubbing alcohol right after you pour them into the molds. It disperses the bubbles.OOHH..yeah forgot that to...duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elizabeth Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Oh Michi! Just jump in, I did! Ok.. so don't look at me as an example cuz I haven't gotten it right yet... not to mention it took quite some time to clean up my mess after that first lb...LOL. Using liquid dyes, I don't think you have to worry too much about staining, not unless you're going to try making a navy blue or black or something. Then again, I may be wrong As for the FO, the M&P I have has a 3% load, meaning 1/2 oz pp, which I didn't figure out until after my second try...lol. BTW: doubling the FO will kill the suds, ask me how I know Also, if you want to add anything "non liquid" to it, you need to wait until it thickens a bit to add or keep stirring until it cools enough to thicken some. The clay and paprika both that I used settled to the bottom. It didn't look bad, just wasn't what I had intended. Look at it this way, if you don't like the way it comes out, chop it up and remelt. Oh yeah, wrap them as soon as you unmold them. The sweating is a pain Now go jump in with both feet and have fun. I'm still trying to find out if Pam is ok to coat the molds with. Oh yeah, don't put them in the freezer to help unmold unless you have to and then only for a couple minutes(not 1/2 hr!), that makes the sweating real bad.Added: Thanks for the links!Personally, I don't think i would use Pam at all on the molds. mp soaps have enough issue with "sweating" and I would be concerned that having residue oil from the Pam would pose a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairy_Light Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Hey hun... there is a site I think called soapteacher or something along that line that has different picture instructions for making M & P. It's really easy. Satin also posted a bundle of recipes in the recipe section... defanitely worth giving a look. Have fun with it... M & P is always fun...HUGS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_1 Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Grab your heat-proof bowl/measuring cup, a lb. of m&p & jump right into the process! It's tons of fun and so easy that once you make your first few bars you will be wondering why you waited There are many good ways to *do* m&p and one of the beauties of the process is that (providing you don't add tons of additives) if you don't like the way the bar turned out - you can remelt it and try again!You've gotten tons of great advice here - the rest is all experimentation. General guidelines to follow:1. 1/2 oz of fo per lb of m&p (if you don't have a scale, 1 tablespoon of fo will be pretty close). If it's a really strong fo you may want to use a bit less. Add the fo to the melted m&p base right before pouring into molds.2. What type of colorants are you using? If they are liquid soap colorants, a great way to begin with them is to add them by the drop to your melted m&p. Add one drop - stir - is the color what you wanted? If not then add another drop (or two).If you are using powdered colorants, like mica - an easy way to incorporate them into your m&p is to mix the mica in with your fragrance oil prior to adding it to the melted m&p. This helps ensure that you don't end up with speckles/blobs of mica in the finished bars.Glitter - you can add soap safe body glitter after melting the m&p and then pour the m&p into your molds. If the m&p is really warm, the glitter will mostly sink to the bottom of the mold (which becomes the top of the soap bar when you unmold it). If you want the glitter suspended throughout the bar, after melting the m&p, cover the melted base with plastic wrap & let it cool some. Once it's cooled and thickened just the tiniest bit - stir in the glitter and then pour into molds. This works with other additives like oatmeal too. Covering the melted m&p with plastic wrap while it cools helps to prevent the base from forming a skin on top.3. Allow the soap to fully harden before trying to get it out of the mold. I've damaged more than a few molds trying to get the soap out before it was ready.4. Wrap the m&p bars with plastic wrap or shrink wrap them after unmolding to avoid having them sweat. If you can't wrap them prior to their starting to sweat, just wipe the beads of sweat off (I use a paper towel) and spritz lightly with alcohol & let them dry. Then wrap.Have fun! It's a great addicting hobby!Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 I use the pam when I use molds that have a lot of detail and it's helped me. I spray very small amount and wipe most of that off just leaving a thin sheen and pour as usual. Really helps get the soap out and never had a problem. I had it work really well for making soap boxes. Or you can take a paper towel and spray the pam on that, then just wipe the really detailed areas with the PT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michi Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 I'm sorry I'm just now thanking you all for your advice and supportiveness-I've been having computer issues and haven't been able to get online for a week! Having major withdrawls!! LOLI STILL have not tried the M&P yet, I'm such a chicken. So, no matter what you do with M&P it sweats and must be wrapped immediately? Does anyone know exactly WHY this is? Just curious. Ok, I'm hoping to try some of this this week.I've got about 5 different types of bases, and about 6 different colors plus the glitter, so should be interesting once I finally get into it. Thanks again everyone!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 From what I have read, glycerin attracts moisture from the air so if not wrapped, especially in high humidity it will sweat.HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatinDucky Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Just had to say...LOVE your quote Rebecca! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebecca Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Just had to say...LOVE your quote Rebecca! Thanks. Kinda sums it up don't it? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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