Which is the No Frost Soy? I lost the link.

[Ilona]

Hiya!

I am a devout 135 user and have all but knocked out my frosting issues. But I ran across a link raving about a soy that gave no frost even after burning. I can't find it for the life of me. I've been on here 2 hours looking for it.

Anyone remember what brand? And not the CBA. It was something recent.

I am wondering if it was the GL, but I'm not sure.

I've been tweaking my 135 because the throw is great. But I'd be willing to test out another wax only if the throw is same or better than the 135 and has resolved frosting issues.

Or was it a dream I had?? A soy wax with super HT, CT and no frost?! Yes I must have been dreaming.

ilona

[erinmfritz]

ilona,

How in the world do you "all but knocked out my frosting issues"??????

I have tried different additives, different waxes, different jars, different everything and can't knock out frosting.

[geekrunner]

I'm getting a better handle on frosting, and for me it hinges on three main points:

• Keep your glassware as clean and dry as possible.
  
• Stir your wax as gently as possible, to prevent air bubbles from forming.
  
• Pour slowly in jars, and allow the candles to cool as slowly as possible, preferably in a room heated above 80*

I pour in my basement, which is about 10* cooler than the upstairs. When my candles have set up enough to move (app 2 hours), I place them in the box the jars came in, close it up, and put them in my computer room, which stays pretty warm. After 24 hours, the candles come out 99.9999% frost free! The only caveat I have is if you take the candles and put them in a chilly room, or an air conditioned room, they will frost up within 24 hours and wet sports will form.

geek

[Henryk]

One thing I found by accident and have been doing for a while is tempering the wax. Its pretty neat - just let the soy sit until its not just like cough syrup (slushy) - but until its starts setting up in the pot - they stir it all together - lumps and all - if its too lumpy to get an even top after you pour, heat just a bit and stir together. It looks like it won't work - but really does.

Like Geek - I make sure the glassware is clean and also a bit warm.

Now, after you burn it - you will still get some frost at the burn line - and it will especially stick out if you use a lot of dye.

The only "no frost" soys that I'm aware of is CBA and Greenleaf GL Soy. There used to be Astorlite S1 - but that is no longer sold. I can still get CBA to frost if I burn a container for a LONG time. GL does this a bit less. There are FO and dye factors also. Seems to me more frosting with liquids and certain FOs - if you are heavy with them.

[chris77]

I received a tip that is working for mine.....it still frosts at the burn line, but mine are setting up after pouring with decent tops and no frost. Let the wax cool down to a tomato sauce consistency...stirring slowly....the entire pot should be this tomato sauce look....no clear looking wax left...all blending....if it starts to set up on the sides of the pour pot, heat gun the pot just enough to loosen the sides and stir so the whole pot is tomato sauce like...then pour slowly.....

I have been trying this and it's working great! Put a box over the jars as well to slow the cooling. I also cover my votives with a plastic tub and put a towel over the tub....my apt is 70-72 degrees....the temp in the tub was 81...takes longer to cool, but well worth it to not have sink holes, frosting, or cracking in my votives.

Good luck!

[StephD]

I use CBA and still get frost in reds and greens, depending on the shade. I heated my jars and put them in the oven and it did seem to help. I wish there was something you could do to completely eliminate frost as I get it a lot with certain colors in my melts and it really irritates me! lol

Stephanie

[CareBear]

I'm just getting into candles but am wondering if my low thermostat setting (68 max, 55 at night) is going to be an issue for me. What if I put the candles into a warm (turned off) oven once they are poured and shut the door and walk away - will that allow them to cool slowly enough?

ETA, mine has a warming drawer that I can set as low as 130... but when I push the drawer in I might mess up the candles, right?

[stacien]

I'm getting a better handle on frosting, and for me it hinges on three main points:

• Keep your glassware as clean and dry as possible.
  
• Stir your wax as gently as possible, to prevent air bubbles from forming.
  
• Pour slowly in jars, and allow the candles to cool as slowly as possible, preferably in a room heated above 80*

I pour in my basement, which is about 10* cooler than the upstairs. When my candles have set up enough to move (app 2 hours), I place them in the box the jars came in, close it up, and put them in my computer room, which stays pretty warm. After 24 hours, the candles come out 99.9999% frost free! The only caveat I have is if you take the candles and put them in a chilly room, or an air conditioned room, they will frost up within 24 hours and wet sports will form.

geek

Geek, I think you hit the nail right on the head. I have considerably noticed that I get frosting if my household temps fall under 75 degrees while pouring. Which is impossible in my home to maintain over 71, and we own a HVAC business. As soon as I store them in the cool dry place, which is in the basement. They frost instantly. I finally gave up for the winter and decided to not color the wax. I have noticed considerably what a diffence as far as texture the candles harden to when I add color as opposed to not.

[TexasBrat]

Is frosting bad or more just aesthetic?

[Henryk]

If that is all it is - frosting - than no, its just aesthetic. It is possible, with bad air or pour temps, certain FOs, or solvents in some liquid dyes to cause the wax not to set up correctly, which is not good esp. with soy - if you see this - you'll know the difference - it looks rather like flaking all the way deep through the candle - even under the surface.

HTH

[Ilona]

OK, just because so many of you have helped me with my R&D projects, I will devulge my no frost secrets.

I do most of the above, with waiting to pour, tempering, etc...

But a few weeks ago I did an experiment and I am SHOCKED at how amazing it is working.

Normally I add BW to my ecosoya 135 (I love the way the 135 throws so I wanted to make this work). Yes the cooler I poured the less frost there was, and no way could I ever heat gun tops as that would be a frost nightmare.

Then one day I was wondering why the 135 frosted but the same brand ecosoya Pillar wax never frosted, no matter how dark I colored the wax.

Sooooo

I tried adding a bit of the ecosoya PB to my BW and 135.

PERFECTION!!!

and can you believe...NO FROST ON THE BURN LINE! Also perfectly smooth tops even after burning.

I will try and post some photos.

But... and there is always a but...

I have not tried this mix with pouring at higher temps, I still temper and pour slushy. But I did notice that the extra wax that I pour in tart molds to save (I reheat to get what sticks to the sides of the continer so the wax is not slushy but clear) the tarts have NO FROST!

Also with 90% of the tests I've done with burning, wick etc...I remain frost free.

I also get no frost when I hit it with a heat gun. A damn miracle!:whoohoo:

HOWEVER...

There was 2-3 times with a certain FO that when I hit it too hard with the gun it did frost. I think this was due to the room temp as well. I need to test those FOs again to make sure, as I think I pushed it too hard with the heat gun.

Yes it is amazing, and I am dancing around the room with my discovery.

Honestly I think this is something like what GL is selling as I got the idea to mix the PB after reading about their new wax blend.

So that is how I'm dealing with my frost issues.

I still have to try various pour temps to see if it will work if I pour at a non-slushy state. I just haven't had much time due to xmas, and refulling my whole families candle supply before jetting back to the UK for school.

Let me know if this works for you! Please, I'd love to get feedback.

Also if anyone is a 135 user and want to try my formula but does not want to buy 50lbs of BW, PM me and maybe we can do a swap. I can send you some PB and BW. But I'm flying out on Jan 5th to the UK so it will have to be in the next couple days.

Good Luck!

Ilona

[Ilona]

I'm about to post some pics of the no frost formula in the gallery.

These three are a sample of my recent test candles. I'm testing wicks, but the later two have both been burned for a few hours with deep melt pools and as you can see no white frost after they have cooled and set back up. I tested these last week, an no frost as of yet.

The blue is one of the extra eax tarts I poured. It was poured not slushy, but surprisingly still no frost.

Hope this helps.

i.~

[Gravity]

Those are absolutely beautiful. Thank you so much for sharing your info!

[Marilyn]

[Henryk]

Good idea Ilona, I'm going to try it with my container and pillar soys and see what happens - and I'lll throw a pile of red dye in it to really see what happens!

Thanks!

[erinmfritz]

What a great discovery. Your candles look great, thanks for sharing. You say you add a "bit" of the pillar wax. What % is a bit or how did you measure?

[Marilyn]

I would like to know, too!! Hurry back! (hope you had a good trip!)

[Henryk]

Not Ilona, but I thought I would post my results with KY115 and KYPillar. Made 2 contianers both with 9% FO. One had 9% KYPillar. Both each had 2 red diamonds - pretty dark red for only 6 ounces of wax! I had the opposite result. I did not add BW to either one. The one with the added pillar wax frosted worse than the plain soy! I was surprised that the 115 had only a little frost on top - both before and after burning - I expected MUCH worse for a plain soy (I am new to the 115).

So, at least with my waxes, I won't be adding the pillar. Just goes to show how different waxes perform.