soy vs. para

[Lightning Bug]

Hi. After testing soys off and on for almost two years, I'm reading of the advantages of a soy/para blend. My questions are, does paraffin throw better than soy in most instances and does it tend to soot and burn faster than soy? So, if the blend the best of both worlds and why stick with either wax straight? Help my tired mind find the answers. I did read the 50/50 post below but felt it addressed more of the mixing ideas etc. TIA. Beth

[Di_in_AZ]

Paraffin is known to throw better, you have to add more FO (usually 1.5 oz FO to soy; 1 oz FO to paraffin) so you should be able to accomplish a comparable throw with soy.

If not CORRECTLY wicked, a paraffin candle will soot. A soy candle will also but it will not soot as easily as a paraffin will when incorrectly wicked or put in a draft. Soy produces white soot so it is less noticeable, soot all the same. The soy does burn longer than paraffin.

The soy/paraffin blend is designed to get the best of both and eliminate the worst of both. They aim to get rid of wet spots (traditional paraffin), stop the frosting and low pour temps (soy), less FO use and better throws, and less sooting.

I am testing GL right now, but I just started so others could probably post their results regarding what works and what doesn't.

Edit to say I am testing to switch to a blend; however, I entirely hate the idea of starting from scratch on the wicking with new wax. It is SO much easier when you already know which wick works and which wick doesn't.

[Henryk]

I have tried a few parasoys - 2 about 1.5 years ago, and two just recently. I didn't care for them after working with all three (soys, paraffins, parasoys - all container blends). I did have high hopes for them, but I just found it easier to concentrate on making EITHER a good soy candle OR a good paraffin candle.

You have to really be careful with the blends. Especially if working at around the 3" diameter. Many people post pics of really great looking candles in the first few burns - but its what happens later on that counts - THAT is when you may find your "best of both worlds" blend starts sooting really bad. If you are going to try them, I would suggest no more that 2.5 - single wicking. I had good luck with that size, but I had some film hangup in my tests with glass that I could only get off with wicking hot - then you may find later on if you don't trim your wicks religiously, they will soot - and I didn't care for the amount of babysitting I had to do with them. This problem went completely away when I tested HTPs in 4 ounce tins - because I assume the tin gets hotter than glass. Those were some of the best burning candles I ever made.

For throw hot and cold - I just dont' think you can beat paraffin. However, when you get an FO that works with soy - it works really well. You will probably find as I did that if you compare all three, you find that cold throw goes: paraffin, parasoys, soys, in that order.

Naturally, all JMO - YMMV.

[wookie130]

Yeah, I think the wicking is the trickiest part of chandling period. And with para-soy, you really do get the best of both worlds...improved scent throw, a longer-burning candle, no frost, good color, smooth tops, etc. It does kind of make you wonder why more people don't do their testing and revert to using it...but everyone likes something different, and if they've found something that works quite well, why change it?

[Candlewitch]

Henry has done a ton of testing, The two just gave you very sound advice. Nothing very good is easy. That is the fun of it all.

[silkysoycreations]

I'd highly suggest getting a sample of GL's 70/30 soy blend. I've been able to wick most of my fragrances with an eco 4 in a 2.5 diameter straight jar. I do get hang up initially but it does catch up mid jar and very little black soot when burned/trimmed properly. Eco 6 works well too and less hang up but more soot. As far as appearance I get perfection each and every time. No wet spots, no frosting, perfect creamy tops...appearance wise it's awesome. Hot and cold throw has been great too...5 day cure time typically since it's mainly soy. I've used this wax in a 10oz. keepsake doubled wicked with LX12s and little to no visible soot. I don't have as much experience as most others on here but I tried several different soy waxes and appearance of soy was frustrating for me not knowing what kind of candle I was going to get after each pour. I spent a lot of time trying to fix the appearance of soy instead of embrasing its character! If I ever decide to go back to soy I'll test tins.