Henryk Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 Using eco cb-135 (not advanced) and starting to test tins with it. If you use a similar type soy (soy/cottonseed, soy, advanced-type soy - but not parasoys), care to share wick starting points for 4, 6, or 8oz tins?Does anyone think that the cored wicks (i.e. hemp, cotton, zinc) would be better in them than coreless since tins mainly go to all liquid at the end? I assume ECOs would be good also though.I've been doing a lot of searching and found some good info, however, Top, if you are around there are 2 conflicting pieces of info from you on two posts that maybe you can clear up. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8013#19 says eco 14 with ecosoya cb-135 in an 8oz. tin while http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14935#6 says it was C-3 in the same size, same wick. Just confused on which wax you were testing - seems like you meant cb-135 and not c-3 as posted.TIA, for ANY help for starting points! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gretchen Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Hi Henry!I'm using the Advanced, but this since you have so much experience withthem both, thought this may help even as a starting point. I'm using the 6oz tin from SKS (they have a great one with tiny feet on the bottom), 2.75" diameter. I'm using a CD-10. The CD-8's were baby-flaming. Works great with all my FO's, even the heavier ones, and I've never had a wick topple over, even when the candle is completely liquid. A couple years ago I was using the CB135. I'm guessing I would start with the CD-12 with that wax. May not be of any help!Gretchen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 You must have read my mind Gretchen - I actually poured 3 6oz. tin testers today - one of them is indeed a CD12. So, we'll see how that goes. Thanks for the post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gretchen Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Keep it going; I'd love to hear your results! (Still sitting on some CB135!)Gretchen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 I need to let them sit for 24 hours - I'll post some pics - hope they aren't too embarrassing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mptex Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 In the 6 ounce tins, the 51cs also work great, too.HTH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Henryk, all this time I was recalling testing C3 with ECO 14 and posting it. Looking back at the thread it was apparently CB-135. Maybe I got confused because I never ended up using ECO 14 for the typical 8 oz tin of CB-135. More like ECO 10 or 12 I think. For 6 oz tins it was ECO 6 or 8.The most notable thing about wicking tins is how much heat the metal transmits from the bottom back up the sides. If you go for maximum scent throw at the top and wick them for a full melt pool, you get an inferno when you burn down to the bottom. I do these conservatively and allow for a fair amount of hangup at the top of the container. Past the halfway point they start to catch up like crazy.Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizbizzyb Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Henryk, all this time I was recalling testing C3 with ECO 14 and posting it. Looking back at the thread it was apparently CB-135. Maybe I got confused because I never ended up using ECO 14 for the typical 8 oz tin of CB-135. More like ECO 10 or 12 I think. For 6 oz tins it was ECO 6 or 8.The most notable thing about wicking tins is how much heat the metal transmits from the bottom back up the sides. If you go for maximum scent throw at the top and wick them for a full melt pool, you get an inferno when you burn down to the bottom. I do these conservatively and allow for a fair amount of hangup at the top of the container. Past the halfway point they start to catch up like crazy.Good luck.I agree and have learned to live with the initial hang up in the tins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 Henryk, all this time I was recalling testing C3 with ECO 14 and posting it. Looking back at the thread it was apparently CB-135. Maybe I got confused because I never ended up using ECO 14 for the typical 8 oz tin of CB-135. More like ECO 10 or 12 I think. For 6 oz tins it was ECO 6 or 8.The most notable thing about wicking tins is how much heat the metal transmits from the bottom back up the sides. If you go for maximum scent throw at the top and wick them for a full melt pool, you get an inferno when you burn down to the bottom. I do these conservatively and allow for a fair amount of hangup at the top of the container. Past the halfway point they start to catch up like crazy.Good luck.Perfect. One of the other 6 oz. containers I did I guess with an ECO 8. The other I probably really overwicked - HTP104. I don't know what I was thinking of. We'll see how it goes.Regarding your second paragraph - even with the little bit of testing I did before with 70/30 in a 4 oz. tin - that was DEFINATELY the case - you have to burn them all the way down. No cheating.PS: mptex - thanks for the hint on the cotton! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 Well, here they are, we'll see how it goes. In order: CD12, ECO8, HTP104.Edit: (I'll try to get better pictures as it goes - this one is pretty crappy). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 I'll do the full 2.5 hours, but this is after only 1:45 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silkysoycreations Posted September 6, 2006 Share Posted September 6, 2006 Would like to know if you get any rusting on your tins. I'd like to start testing tins for pure soy but keep reading about rusting issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 6, 2006 Author Share Posted September 6, 2006 I thought that was basically the vanilla-type FOs - not sure about the other ones.I'll give an update later on things - but I can say I'm pretty discouraged as to how they set up - even though I used USA. I'm starting to think with the 135 that the FO really has a lot to do with how things set up. Its almost like I didn't use any additive at all this time - yet with some other FOs I had great looking set ups post burn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted September 7, 2006 Share Posted September 7, 2006 I'm starting to think with the 135 that the FO really has a lot to do with how things set up.Interesting observation. I found a small proportion of FOs that I couldn't even make a proper looking candle with using CB-135. The majority worked fine, but those few always set up screwy no matter what, even on the initial pour. I wrote them off as "incompatible".By the way, all the old testers that I put away in the closet have a powdery looking mottled surface now and the wax has swelled so that all my 1/4" wicks are now 1/8".Burn them when they're young...it's all downhill from there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 Yea - I have that in the back of my mind.(Frankincense & Myrrh is just killing my tops.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deana_P Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Hi Henry..Ive been testing the 4 and 8 oz tins and the 70/30. ..So far the best 2 Ive seen for the 4oz , for me, is 104 and 51-32-18 ....They both were fantastic.Im having a hard time with the 8oz tho ( with 70/30 ) ....Ive kinda sat them back for a while and want to keep on with the 4oz til perfect....When you said this : Regarding your second paragraph - even with the little bit of testing I did before with 70/30 in a 4 oz. tin - that was DEFINATELY the case "What did you end up wicking with on the 4oz and 70/30 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mizbizzyb Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I'm currently testing the 4oz with the Premier 730, 735 and LX 14 and 16...It seems like it is gonna be a toss up between the LX wicks....but I am only halfway thru....the Premiers make burn better towards the end :undecidedEdited to say 70/30 GL wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmoopie Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Eco 1 burn great in the 4 oz. tin for me..... I wick alittle under, because as stated they really catch up in the second half of the burn.Using RRD 37 on the 8 ozers. This is with a para-soy blend though.HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deana_P Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Keep me updated with the 70/30 4 oz tins tests !!! I really appreciate it !!!8oz tins and 70/30 as well !Thanx mizbiz and schmoopie ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 Here's a pic after a few 3 hour burns (about 18 hours total). The ECO8 (middle) worked perfectly. The other two will probably catch up on the last burn or two - just a thicker film on those. (CD12 and HTP104)I also liked how the ECO and the HTP had basically NO mushrooming in this test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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