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HUGE difference in FO mottles


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I was reading through the archives and was wondering why some people were getting really different results with mottling (or for that matter, NO mottling) even though it seemed like some were doing everything "right" and using the same wax and pour temps.

These are two candles (yes, sorry the picture is terrible), same batch of 4045, both poured at 180, same color (1 yellow dye chip), same time, and 5% Honeysuckle FO. The ONLY difference was the FO. Same FO type, but different suppliers.

post-98-13945840437_thumb.jpg

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ok great observation! any stab at the science behind it?

maybe one supplier cut the FO?

the difference in molecular structure caused it disperse differently and caused a different mottle?

You know I have to take a stab at the science behind my signature candle.

FOs affect mottling differently for basically the same reason that they mix with wax differently or make the candles burn differently. They all contain different compounds to make them smell like they do, so they vary a lot in properties like solubility, density, viscosity, etc.

The role of FO in mottling is that it's liquid at room temperature. Having liquid hanging out between the paraffin crystals makes them stick together less well. In the final stages of cooling, as the crystals shrink, they start to pull apart in places and air gets sucked in between the crystals. That's what produces the visible mottling effect.

So if you think about what's happening, you can imagine how differences between the properties of one FO versus another could vary the way the crystals stick together or peel apart.

Speculatively, maybe the compounds in fragrance oils could even affect the way the paraffin cystals form. Mottling waxes have large crystals that come apart easily. If you add something that changes the crystal structure (like Vybar or microcrystalline wax), the mottling effect will decrease or disappear.

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What I want to get is the effect on the right - but in reverse. Meaning an all over mottle with a rare break in the mottle. Just like Sharon's eggnong pillar here: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6822 . The odd thing is, I have only seen this effect happen in layered mottles. (I've also seen it in Top's mottle (layered) he entered in the BBB competition and a few other ones that people posted in which they added a grain or two of vybar).

Concerning the ones I posted here - if anyone is interested - with 1343 I was able to get from the effect on the right to change to the effect on the left just by adding vybar 343 (at that time I was using 1343).

Before the 1343 stint I used 1274 - and that ALWAYS mottled consistently like the one on the left.

Now that I have 4045 I also am waiting for some parol oil to come in to see if that mottles differently with parol as opposed to straight mineral oil. (I think Magarittamama said it didn't make a difference but she wasn't using 4045).

(So many things I'd like to test if I ever get the time).

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FYI Parol is straight mineral oil. It's a brand name for Penreco's "technical grade" mineral oil, which would differ from what you get in the drugstore in that it's not approved for direct use in food. Penreco also has a Drakeol brand which would be like the stuff you buy in the drugstore.

http://www.penreco.com/products/whtminoils/whtminoils.asp

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A while ago I did look up "mineral" oil and compared it to this grid at http://www.penreco.com/products/whtminoils/techproperties.asp - it was so long ago but I think it was the viscosity that was the difference (I was told back then that the "Parol" oil that is sold at candle supply places was/should be the "Parol 100".)
Yup, viscosity is another major variable. For candles the lighter the better because it affects the wicking. Lighter than 100 is fine too.

If you ever feel the need to know what you're getting, you can try http://www.steoil.com/. It's not cheap for mineral oil, but you can get a variety of different kinds in small quantities.

I think also The Chemistry Store sells DuoPrime 70.

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