My coffee candle is not doing too well...

[BrySC]

Hey y'all. Everyone is always so helpful, I thought I'd see if anyone had any suggestions for this candle. I'm trying to make a 2 color, fresh coffee scented candle. I'm not too pleased with it. The line between the brown and white doesn't look good, and the top is very flakey. (Hope you can see the flakiness in the pic)

I used 1343 wax, 1 tbs of stearic acid per pound, and 1/2 tsp of vybar per pound. I poured the first layer at 175 degrees, then let it cool for an hour. Then I poured the second layer at 180. (I read somewhere that the second layer needs to be a little hotter than the first so they will adhere well)

Any suggestion for "perfecting" this candle would be GREATLY appreciated. Originally I was trying to do about 10 different kinds of candles, and none were coming out that great. So I decided to perfect one before moving on to the next.

Thanks again!

[Candle Man]

Hey y'all. Everyone is always so helpful, I thought I'd see if anyone had any suggestions for this candle. I'm trying to make a 2 color, fresh coffee scented candle. I'm not too pleased with it. The line between the brown and white doesn't look good, and the top is very flakey. (Hope you can see the flakiness in the pic)

I used 1343 wax, 1 tbs of stearic acid per pound, and 1/2 tsp of vybar per pound. I poured the first layer at 175 degrees, then let it cool for an hour. Then I poured the second layer at 180. (I read somewhere that the second layer needs to be a little hotter than the first so they will adhere well)

Any suggestion for "perfecting" this candle would be GREATLY appreciated. Originally I was trying to do about 10 different kinds of candles, and none were coming out that great. So I decided to perfect one before moving on to the next.

Thanks again!

You don't need both additives vybar will give you a smooth finish. Make sure the first layer is set up but still slightly warm and not pulled away from the mold. Poke relief holes, just don't poke all the way to the bottom of the mold. Heat the next layer hotter 180* should be good then only pour enough to cover the first layer let it set, but not completly cool, then pour the rest of your layer hot. That thin middle layer will help with bonding, avoid color bleed and make a nice transition between layers. Poke relief holes again then top off.

Hopes this helps

Candle Man

[topofmurrayhill]

You poured your first layer much too cool. The thinner the layer the hotter you have to pour it to get a smooth surface, especially if it's the first layer and the mold is room temp. In this case 190 would have been more like it for the white layer. A tilted layer of that thickness might have to be even hotter.

That rule about 5 degrees hotter is basically one of the lingering candlemaking myths. The relationship between the temp you pour one layer versus another will vary depending on the exact pattern of layers you're pouring (how thick and in what order). It may change when you try to make something different. With some practice you'll develop a feel and have a better chance of nailing it on the first try.

Everyone has their way of doing things, but personally I like to keep it simple and don't use that in-between layer technique. I can see how it could be advantageous sometimes, but with the right timing and temperature you can also pour each layer directly on top of the other and get good results. Your choice which approach you want to pursue.

I agree with using only Vybar to get a smooth opaque effect.

Try UA when you want a bit more translucency.

Switch to stearic (2 to 4 T) if you're pouring cool and want to get a frosty effect.

[MasterBaker2]

I agree with using only Vybar to get a smooth opaque effect.

Try UA when you want a bit more translucency.

Switch to stearic (2 to 4 T) if you're pouring cool and want to get a frosty effect.

Thanks Top. I didn't realize that switching from UA to Stearic would help the rustic look. Learning something new all of the time on here. :highfive:

[BrySC]

Another question about this candle. Could a water bath improve the transition area between colors? Thanks!

[Scented]

I don't really think it will. I think you just need to practice on layers Water bath will certainly cool your candle more quickly, improve the gloss and surface etc. (IME). But I just don't find that it helps that much with layers ... i.e. if you did a water bath with each layer (you couldn't tilt that well in the bath without some real experimentation lol) the wax would likely cave in a little bit, leaving ridges. You might possibly get some distinct jumplines ... and if you didnt' water bath till you were done with all the pours, then what's the point? Your candle is mostly set up by the time you get done.