Melting Soy

[ebarnes]

Got an order for 150, 16oz Jar Candles. I have a preto pot that hold 7lbs of wax, its taking a longer and longer evertime I use the pot (may need to replace). How long does it take you to melt 7lb of Soy and at what temp do you pour?

I normally wait until the slushy/apple sauce stage, and this gives the candle a nice look. But I have heard of people pouring at 170 deg. This will save a lot of time, plus Im using Frosted Jars with no color.

I think I can do it in a day.

[Meridith]

I don't know how long it will take melt 7lb since your presto pot is different than mine. But, soy usually has to be poured cool to better your chances at getting smooth tops. I say better your chances since I've had many candles poured cool that still set up with crummy tops. IMO, soy isn't the wax to use if you are in such a hurry. However, there have been times, I've gotton smooth tops when I've poured hotter than my normal pouring temp of around 100. I think though these times were more flukes than anything and are reliable as to the normal outcome. Unfortunately, my experience is that more often than not, the tops will not be smooth when pouring hotter.

[PrairieDweller]

I've been pouring soy exclusively for 7 yrs and hate HATE pouring slushy. OMG I can't stand the wait! When soy first came available to us, the rec's were to pour hot. Someone, somewhere a few yrs back had the idea pouring cool helped in the cosmetic appeal. Now I see people say it is "necessary" or that pouring hot is "wrong"... NAH!

It is not necessary... it is merely a preference and it takes no more time to go back and fix cosmetic flaws and air pockets with a heatgun than it does to sit and wait on pot after pot of wax to cool to just the right slush before pouring.

I can tell you.. many, many tests have I tried pouring cool, slushy & hot. I found air pockets under the surface of EVERY candle poured hot, nearly every with cool and an avg. of 5 out of 12 on ones poured at slushy stage. I figured if I had to rip into each and every candle anyhow to CHECK for air pockets...might as well pour hot and be done with it LOL

Who cares about a smooth top and less frost when the candle is full of air??

I pour between 160-170. When candles are set up completely, I take the heat gun and a wire hook (like a crochet hook) and poke through the surface as it is melting ... when an air pocket is found, the pic just sort of "falls through". I then open it up and melt/fill it in. No matter what temp you pour, try this and see how many air pockets you find. If a customer is burning your candle and the flame hits that air pocket, they will not be back for another.

Most pockets are near the wick and 1/4" - 1/2" under the surface, so check well!

Keep in mind through your testing, should you try this, that a hotter pour requires a hotter wick, as your burn rate will slow. A candle poured 70 degrees hotter needs a hotter wick. I use a cd 16 on the avg. scent in an 8oz jelly jar if that helps you.

sorry for the long-winded post, just wanted to give another observation

[mappam]

Prairie - don't you get frosting when you pour hot?

[PrairieDweller]

I doooo, yes. But IMO it's worth it. Trade one evil for another kind of thing.

By now, soy has become a household name and consumers have learned to "appreciate" the frosting that either comes with the candle or later appears.

Beeswax does the same thing and the market for beeswax is definitely there.

[Meridith]

Like I said, I think it doesn't matter and you will get cruddy looking tops poured hot and poured cooler. But, your tops will come out smoother when pouring cool more often than when pouring hot IMO. I don't have problems with air pockets too when I pour cool. But, everybody's experience is difference - that's what you get with different wax, pouring temps and conditions, different jars etc.

[Lightning Bug]

Hi. Here's a newbie question. Just what does happen if the wick hits an air pocket. Why wouldn't wax from the melt pool just run in and fill it? Had not heard that you had to poke relief holes in 100% soy, so just wondered. Thanks. Beth

[PrairieDweller]

IF the air pocket is small enough, the melted wax would just run in and fill it, you are right. But a larger pocket will cause the wick to weaken and eventually drown out.

ebarnes, if you do decide to try my test, do it to the fullest extent to show you true results. Pour a case (12) of jelly jars cool and dig for the air pockets, using a heatgun and a wire pic (can use a piece of coat hanger with a hook bent into the ends. Bend both ends due to comfort of holding one end and the other end to help open the pockets so you can fill).

In answer to your original question which I totally strayed from.. It takes my presto approx 1/2 hr on 200 to melt fully.

You can add time in the beginning... or at the end, it's your choice.

Good luck... sounds like a nice order!

[Abbiepql]

By day do you mean 24 hours or a normal work day?

On a good work day I can pour 9 cases of 16 oz apothocaries and that is with melters that hold 50lbs. of wax - pouring syrupy (I don't get air pockets at all, verified by weighing them afterwards) That does not include wicking, fixing tops, wiping down jars, and labeling.

150 16 oz jars in one day unless you are pulling an all nighter with soy and presto pots seems a bit extreme!

[Sharon in KY]

Why would you need a larger wick if pouring hot and smaller when pouring cooler? I don't get the connection. Please explain. Thanks

[foxhill]

For my big jobs I skip the presto pots and use an 18 quart electric turkey roaster. You can get more wax into it at a time. You just have to dip the wax out for your pour pot.

[Carriegsxr6]

I pour at 130, but then again I use a different soy blend. I use Calwax CB3

[Fire and Ice]

Like I said, I think it doesn't matter and you will get cruddy looking tops poured hot and poured cooler. But, your tops will come out smoother when pouring cool more often than when pouring hot IMO. I don't have problems with air pockets too when I pour cool. But, everybody's experience is difference - that's what you get with different wax, pouring temps and conditions, different jars etc.

I have to disagree with this. I use C-3 and pour at 170 and my tops are smooth. Not like glass but they're smooth. And I don't even own a heatgun.