theklacreations Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 I was wondering if anyone has used this wax RobNat 1226 Palm Wax this is for containers. I have made 2 test candles and they are holes of air in them. Like right after the top layer. I am using a tumbler that is 3 in across. I am using a rrd 50 and it is not burning across the jar but the flame it to tall and the wick is trimed to 1/4 in. Any ideas to help me. Also I am using RobNat 1230 Palm Wax for pillars. I am having trouble getting the candles out of the mold. I have tried heating the molds but were a pain to get out. Do they need to be frozen or a mold release on them. The molds are season w/ use. The palm wax has a wonderful cold throw. Made it 3 weeks ago and I can still smell it even w/ a candlemaker nose. Thanks for your help,TheklaThekla's Creations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 I have not used his palm container wax, but have seen it in his showroom in some finished candles. For the containers, are you poking and keeping relief holes open? Palm wax is notorious for air pockets. It is one of those waxes that is beautiful, but you almost have to babysit it to keep the holes open until it sets up completely, then do a repour to fill in the air pockets. The pillar wax I can't help you with. If you can't figure it out, I would suggest calling Robert, he is very nice and very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theklacreations Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share Posted January 31, 2006 Thanks for the info. The container wax is a one pour so I didn't poke relief holes. I will try that and see if that helps. Thanks, Thekla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenleaf Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Also I am using RobNat 1230 Palm Wax for pillars. I am having trouble getting the candles out of the mold. I have tried heating the molds but were a pain to get out. Do they need to be frozen or a mold release on them. The molds are season w/ use. The palm wax has a wonderful cold throw. Made it 3 weeks ago and I can still smell it even w/ a candlemaker nose.You MUST use Stearic in the Pillar Palm Wax for it to release correctly. We recommend 2 tsp per lb minimumHTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I have not used his palm container wax, but have seen it in his showroom in some finished candles. For the containers, are you poking and keeping relief holes open? Palm wax is notorious for air pockets. It is one of those waxes that is beautiful, but you almost have to babysit it to keep the holes open until it sets up completely, then do a repour to fill in the air pockets. The pillar wax I can't help you with. If you can't figure it out, I would suggest calling Robert, he is very nice and very helpful.Are the air pockets always just below the surface or can they develop deeper? A non-babysitting alternative could simply be to break the surface after the wax sets up and fill in the cavities, no? There's no issue of stress relief since the wax doesn't stretch, just a matter of being able to reach the holes. Haven't tried palm yet, just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaybee23 Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Are the air pockets always just below the surface or can they develop deeper? A non-babysitting alternative could simply be to break the surface after the wax sets up and fill in the cavities, no? There's no issue of stress relief since the wax doesn't stretch, just a matter of being able to reach the holes. Haven't tried palm yet, just curious.I have had them in multiple spots in the candles I have made, some of them deep. The issue with just poking the holes after it sets up is that this wax is so hard and brittle. Those relief holes really need to stay open as much as possible, at least that has been my experience. I haven't poured them in quite a while. In fact, I don't pour the Astorlite palms anymore at all. If I want that kind of effect in a candle, I prefer the Strahl & Pitsch wax. I just think it looks better when it sets up, but that is totally a personal opinion. It also needs to be poked, just like the Astorlite palms. S & P will send you samples if you ever get the itch to try them. They have several different ones to choose from. I wasn't impressed with their smooth container wax, I had adhesion problems with it. Sorry, got way off track from your original question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theklacreations Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 Thank your for all the info. I put 1 1/2 Tablespoon of Steric Acid in my pillars. I got an info sheet from TC and that is what it said. Is that to much. It also said to heat the molds. The pillar I made is very pretty it looks like it made from ice crystals. When the pillar burns it has a shelf above of the melt pool that does melt. So it looks like it has a this little shelfs on the side. I am going to try tonight and make another one and see what happens.Thanks for all the info.TheklaThekla's Creations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candleessence Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Heres a tip if you don't want to babysit your palm containers~I use an ice pick & after the candle is completely set up I heat up the ice pick & poke about 1/2 doz holes (# of holes would depend on the container size) I then top off the container with more wax. This usually works. Forget the "one-pour" attributes of palm wax, poking holes to find the air pockets is a must or your wicking will never be proper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.