jsull918 Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 This is NOT tunneling, it is the correct wick. It’s an under the surface air pocket. Please read post. ) I am so paranoid and need some advice. A few times when testing candles I've had some air pockets happen about 15-20 minutes after lighting. These are under the surface so you don't know they're there ..with smooth tops and all. Since then, I poke lots of holes in the tops even if they come out smooth and heat gun, just to be sure this doesnt happen. Guess what? It happened, again. All this heat gunning EVERY SINGLE candle I make is really lots and lots of time, on top of that, I feel like I'm burning off fragrance. Any suggestions?? Should I only take to the heat gun if there are visible sink holes after cooling and just roll with it? Basically because it seems no matter if I poke holes on top and heat gun or not, it IS still possible to get those under the surface air pockets... Has this ever happened to you? Also, has it ever happened and a customer ended up with one of those candles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfroberts Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 What wax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsull918 Posted October 3, 2020 Author Share Posted October 3, 2020 23 minutes ago, bfroberts said: What wax? IGI 6006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfroberts Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 1 hour ago, jsull918 said: IGI 6006 I thought as much. Slowing the cool as much as possible is the only real preventative and it is not 100% by any means. Some containers are more prone than others....mainly any container that is significantly taller than it is wide. I can't tell what jar you are using, but in my16oz square masons and any of the other taller containers it is impossible to prevent the holes with any degree of confidence. The best course of action is to poke holes and do repours. You can use a heat gun, but I find repours much easier & faster once you get into the habit. Otherwise, the only option is to stick with less problematic containers such as tumblers, 8oz masons, etc. Those can be prevented by adjusting pour temp and slow cooling, but you still have to be diligent. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 I've had the exact same problem when I worked with a parasoy blend. Had to always check each individual candle by poking holes around the wick then heat gunning to fill in the holes. Sorry I am no help as I eventually moved on to another wax. But I did find that it happened only in jars larger than my 8oz jelly jars. If I made 12 or 16oz jar candles then I had the sinkholes every time that needed to be fixed. Ugh!!!! It ended up being so time consuming I opted for smaller jars and stuck with the jelly jars. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsull918 Posted October 4, 2020 Author Share Posted October 4, 2020 4 hours ago, bfroberts said: I thought as much. Slowing the cool as much as possible is the only real preventative and it is not 100% by any means. Some containers are more prone than others....mainly any container that is significantly taller than it is wide. I can't tell what jar you are using, but in my16oz square masons and any of the other taller containers it is impossible to prevent the holes with any degree of confidence. The best course of action is to poke holes and do repours. You can use a heat gun, but I find repours much easier & faster once you get into the habit. Otherwise, the only option is to stick with less problematic containers such as tumblers, 8oz masons, etc. Those can be prevented by adjusting pour temp and slow cooling, but you still have to be diligent. Do you heat gun or poke holes and repair EVERY candle even if they have smooth tops? Is it a waste of time to do it to my 8oz jellies and 8 oz square masons or just let those be if they are smooth? It only happens in my 12 oz canning jars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfroberts Posted October 4, 2020 Share Posted October 4, 2020 10 hours ago, jsull918 said: Do you heat gun or poke holes and repair EVERY candle even if they have smooth tops? Is it a waste of time to do it to my 8oz jellies and 8 oz square masons or just let those be if they are smooth? It only happens in my 12 oz canning jars. Smooth tops hide the holes. My 16oz masons always have smooth tops and they always have holes under the surface. Until you are sure you've figured out the correct pour temp and cooling method, I would poke holes in every candle to see what's going on. Holes in the 8oz masons can be prevented. Your jelly jars will take some experimenting. I don't generally use those so IDK. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsull918 Posted October 4, 2020 Author Share Posted October 4, 2020 1 hour ago, bfroberts said: Smooth tops hide the holes. My 16oz masons always have smooth tops and they always have holes under the surface. Until you are sure you've figured out the correct pour temp and cooling method, I would poke holes in every candle to see what's going on. Holes in the 8oz masons can be prevented. Your jelly jars will take some experimenting. I don't generally use those so IDK. whats the best prevention from the 8 oz masons? I just pour like supplier says, i heat my jars and put them in the box they came in and pour at 170... sometimes lower bc it'll cool faster sometimes while stirring the fo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfroberts Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 On 10/4/2020 at 9:52 AM, jsull918 said: whats the best prevention from the 8 oz masons? I just pour like supplier says, i heat my jars and put them in the box they came in and pour at 170... sometimes lower bc it'll cool faster sometimes while stirring the fo. For me, pouring at 170 and insulating to cool worked with the 8oz mason jars. And don't pour up into the neck of the jar. Your results may vary but that's what worked for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.