hickskr Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I've been reading and experimenting with pouring the GB 464 wax at different temps. I've poured at 135 degrees and 110 degrees. I feel like I get some slight frosting, not much and pretty good glass adhesion but realized that I should clean the inside of the jar first, oops! I've also tried warming the jars. So, what temp do you guys pour at and do you warm your jars? Thanks in advance! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roxy Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I pour around 155. Gives a very smooth, creamy looking top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I've got a sample order of a couple of pounds of GW464 on the way to me, so I'll see how it goes. I've been using GW444, which I like, but I'd like to compare the two. From everything I've read, GW464 is recommended to be poured at around 130dF ... although I have read that it may be better to pour soy wax as close to the meltpoint temperature as possible, which would be around 115-120dF for 464 ... I think this suggestion that I've read has to do with reducing wet spots. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickskr Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 keep us posted on your comparison of the two waxes, I'd like to hear about the differences . I've read so many different things that it gets confusing! I have been pouring at 135. When I poured at 110 and pre-warmed my jars, I felt like there was more frosting and not as good glass adhesion. With that said, I'm very new so it could just be me! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I pour lots of 464 soy wax for a wholesale client. I pour at 145-150 and get smooth tops. A few times I've had to sub with 444 but I don't recall a noticeable difference (it's been quite a few years since I had to use 444). In 16 years of making soy candles, I have yet to find one that doesn't frost or create wet spots. Some board members suggest washing all glassware before pouring candles - I don't. That could be why I get wet spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickskr Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 Good to know! I'll have to try pouring at that temp! Do you add your fragrance at a specific temp or do you vary it depending on their flashpoint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 When my wax arrives, I'll pour one at 120 and one at 150 and see if there is any difference in regard to wet spots. I know, I'm supposed to embrace them, but I'd like to erase them. After my test burn of the two waxes, I'll report back ... it's going to be awhile since I won't pour them until this coming weekend and allow for a cure time before test burns. With so many good reviews of this wax, I'd be foolish not to try it. I'd also like to try C-3 sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 I use this wax and pour same as Old Glory. I never heat my jars but I do wash them as they always seem to have a film on the inside of the glass and I want to make sure that the wicks are going to stick to the bottom perfectly so I have to have them clean. As far as wet spots and pour temperatures, my honest opinion is either they are going to frost and get wet spots or they don't. It is what it is. Can't control that what so ever. One day you might see the wet spots and then some days you don't get any. But once they leave your hands and are gone, you have no idea if wet spots come about and it doesn't really matter anyway. I also don't color my candles. Me personally, I think heating the jars for the purpose of wet spots or frosting is a complete waste of time. Now that it is getting colder and if it is colder in the house and after I have poured the candles I may or may not put a paper towel or some sheets of paper over the tops of the candles as they are setting up to stop surface cracks that may happen. It all depends. But to get smooth as glass tops with no repours I generally pour 145 to 150 or 151 or 153. But generally with the way that I do my candles with the little embed sitting on the top I have to do a repour so when I'm making candles and if the wax has cooled even all the way down to lets say 110, I still pour because the 2'nd pour is going to cover up what ever the tops look like after they have set up. But I never pour over 153. Trappeur 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nursenancy Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 FWIW, I found that I get wet spots if my jars are touching or even too close together. Frosting is another story altogether. I use 444. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 9 minutes ago, nursenancy said: FWIW, I found that I get wet spots if my jars are touching or even too close together. Frosting is another story altogether. I use 444. I have read about that ... having to do with unequal heat on one side of the candle, or something like that ... I've made candles for a long time, but soy containers are fairly new to me, so I'm just not used to this issue. I was thinking if some of the possible remedies don't work, to see if making a relief hole with a second pour would help. Otherwise, embrace the wet spots, it is. Trappeur ... I have heard of the wrapping with a paper towel practice, I haven't tried that (summer doesn't want to let go here, not that cool yet!) -- as for covering the top of the candle while it's cooling, I tend to think that may or may not cause an issue due to any water droplets, although a paper towel would absorb & "breath," regular paper would most likely insulate, but would there be some condensation? I have read of a suggestion to allow them to cool in a box if the house is cool, I'll be able to experiment with this soon (as well as 464) when these temps drop (then I'll be wishing for summer again.) As for "smooth, glass tops" -- my tops with the 444 are a matte finish unless I second pour or use a heat gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 (edited) Last night after pouring, I used my heat gun after about 45 minutes ... (I've decided I need a small Lazy Susan for this), anyway ... I pointed it only at the bottom of the candle, with just a quick brush across the top ... I don't know if it's going to reduce wet spots yet, as some could still appear (none yet), but I have a glossy top. The reason I thought to do this has to do my search for a wet spot reduction method, and from making gel candles, I know that if you apply a heat gun at the bottom of the candle all around, any hidden air bubbles will rise and release. I'm going to try this again if this candle doesn't come up with air pockets. Edited October 27, 2016 by birdcharm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickskr Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Good thought, I haven't noticed too many wet spots or too much frosting on top of my candles to worry too much, but I think it's because I'm still trying to just figure out how to get a good scent throw! I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong...I've been adding a 6-8% fragrance load at 185 if the flashpoint is above that or at the flashpoint if it's above 130. I've used ECO-14 and ECO-16 wicks in my tureen jars. Could I be adding my fragrance at the wrong temp and it's evaporating? I've bought new jars to try that are straight sided so I can better judge the wicks since I'm just beginning. Curious when you guys add your fragrance and if you have any suggestions as to what I'm doing wrong! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nursenancy Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 it is y understanding that flash point has nothing to do with pour temps. Fragrance wont burn off or evaporate. It is the temperature which the oil can combust at if exposed to open flame or spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickskr Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Okay, I've read that but I've also read that if you add the fragrance oils at too high of a temp, then they can "burn off". Is there truth to that? Certainly don't want anything to combust while making candles, but I'd like to make sure I'm adding my oils most effectively Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I think the wax would have to be hotter than you would safely take it to before you'd start to lose scent while you're making the candle. Are you getting a nice melt pool in your tureen jars? It seems that you're adding scent at the correct temp., as long as you're stirring well and allowing the candles to cure, then that part seems alright. I've never used those types of wicks before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hickskr Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 I feel as if I'm getting a decent melt pool but I've read that those jars can be tricky bc of the shape. I will try my new jars and see what happens. What wicks do you like? I just bought those bc I didn't really know so I thought I'd start with them. They burn clean, don't see smoke but maybe I need to try different wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 From what I've read, those are supposed to be good wicks -- I'll have to try them one day. I have been using square braid cotton, which I buy in spools, tabbing & priming myself. I've been advised (on this board), however, that these can "slump" in some soy waxes while burning, but I haven't personally had any issue with them so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jul Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 On 10/25/2016 at 4:34 PM, OldGlory said: I pour lots of 464 soy wax for a wholesale client. I pour at 145-150 and get smooth tops. A few times I've had to sub with 444 but I don't recall a noticeable difference (it's been quite a few years since I had to use 444). In 16 years of making soy candles, I have yet to find one that doesn't frost or create wet spots. Some board members suggest washing all glassware before pouring candles - I don't. That could be why I get wet spots. Same here. Although I am fairly new to making candles... I use 464 and pour between 145 and 150. My tops look very nice so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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