Xfimpg Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 (edited) Hi Everyone I've been making 6.5" high by 3" wide pillar candles out of beeswax (using Candlewic aluminum pillars and pin). The wick of choice is a 45 braid beeswax coated. Here is the issue: Every candle results in the same way. I light the candle and after 30 minutes there is small 1" wide pool of melted beeswax, the wick has dropped down into the candle about 1" deep, with the flame barely burning. Can anyone shed light on this? I'm using local beeswax from a bee farmer, if that means anything. Thanks in advance! Edited February 6, 2016 by Xfimpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Do you watch it as it burns? Does it hit a cavity inside? Otherwise, the burn you describe seems well underwicked. 1" deep MP in that short amount of time is not nor,al. My 3" wide pillars take at least 12 hours or more to reach that deep and have a much wider MP. I use #5 square braid in my wax for that width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 7 minutes ago, TallTayl said: Do you watch it as it burns? Does it hit a cavity inside? Otherwise, the burn you describe seems well underwicked. 1" deep MP in that short amount of time is not nor,al. My 3" wide pillars take at least 12 hours or more to reach that deep and have a much wider MP. I use #5 square braid in my wax for that width. No cavity inside, I double-checked. I purchased the 45-ply braid from Candlewic, which only the 60-ply is higher. How thick of a wick am I going to have to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 These are the specs of the 45-ply wick i'm using: Wick Size Core Type Burn Rate Wick Application Plyed Wick Used in pillar candles & Tapers Return to Top 9 ply no core 2.67 1/4" - 1/2" dia. tapers 12 ply no core 4.30 1/4" - 3/4" dia. tapers 15 ply no core 5.14 1/2" - 1" dia. tapers 18 ply no core 5.11 1" - 2" dia. pillar candles & tapers 21 ply no core 5.19 2 1/4" - 2 7/8" dia. pillar candles & tapers 24 ply no core 5.73 2 1/2" - 3" dia. pillar candles & tapers 27 ply no core 6.19 2 1/2" - 3" dia. pillar candles & tapers 30 ply no core 6.29 3 1/2" - 4" dia. pillar candles 36 ply no core 7.11 4" - 4 1/2" dia. pillar candles 42 ply no core 7.14 4" - 4 1/2" dia. pillar candles 45 ply no core 7.79 4 1/2" - 5" dia. pillar candles 60 ply no core 8.35 5" - 6" dia. pillar candles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 those wick charts are usually created for paraffin. Beeswax needs much higher sizes than paraffin. If you can get a hold of square braid that is where I would start. Square Braid 4 or 5 most likely. The cavity would have filled with the melt pool wax, BTW. Checking after the burn when cooled would not show the cavern. when making pillars I always poke relief holes, especially when using metal molds. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicky_CO Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Beeswax needs a square braid wick. And TallTayl is right you will need a 5 or 6 if not bigger. Here is another concern local wax is sometimes not as clean as you need it to be. Sometimes you have to filter it. Dirt and debris will cause you BW to clog the wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 I filter the beeswax with a combination of a cheesecloth in a mesh drainer when pouring into the molds, I hope this is sufficient. Ok will change for a larger and squarer braid wick, and poke holes prior to final filling. In order to salvage the braids I have now, if I were to take two braids and "braid" them together to make one wick, would that potentially solve the issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 No that would not solve your issue, as it would still be the wrong wick and braiding 2 together would not burn properly. I, like Tall, use square braid only for my beeswax candles & the #5 for my 3 x 6 pillars. When cleaning beeswax I used to use 2 layers of pantyhose which did a great job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 To filter i use several layers of thick felt. Depending on how dirty yout wax is, your cheese cloth might be enough. Light cappings burn easier than older dark wax from deeper in the comb. Your current wick is not a big enough "straw" to draw up the wax in that width of candle. It is enough to create a small width melt pool and draw up some of it. Two of them might produce more heat and a wider melt pool but still won't be enough to draw up the wax. Your problem will not be solved as the wicks will still drown. You need t create a balance between heat created and consumption of the melted fuel. ply may work with a votive size or even a taper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Thank you so much to both of you for your help, I will order the #5 braid. :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 This all reminds me.... I have some really dirty wax to clean. Why do i dislike that job so much? 40 lbs of already cleaned/partially refined wax sat in the warm melter too long and created crud. I may have to wet clean it this round. Joy. I can think of nothing i would rather be doing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 2 minutes ago, TallTayl said: This all reminds me.... I have some really dirty wax to clean. Why do i dislike that job so much? 40 lbs of already cleaned/partially refined wax sat in the warm melter too long and created crud. I may have to wet clean it this round. Joy. I can think of nothing i would rather be doing. Sorry to hear! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 I will be happy when it is over the shop is cold, so a hot melter will make it cozy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 While we're on the subject :-) ... is there a specific sustainer wick base that must be used with a #5 square braid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 A wider neck to fit the thick wick. Thougn for pillars i don't use them. I run the wick through the mold and secure with metal tape so the wick "is" the candle instead of a part of the candle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 I shopped at Candlewic.com and couldn't find a base with different entry widths. I like you're idea, no base. I guess I could also make a small knot that would prevent the wick from slipping upwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 Wicking a bw pillar after a pin is a total pain. The hole needs to be pretty big to allow the wick theough, which then leaks wax into the gap for a while. That is IF you can get that wock up through the pin hole. Skip it and wick directly in the mold. i run the wick through the hole in the mold and secure with a length of high temp metal tape. Flip it and secure the other end where you pour the wax in the mold with a wick bar. No knots needed. The wick will prime itself in the mold when you pour. This method also allows you to twist the wick to help ensure an even burn. Poke relief holes around the wock as it cools, fill when mostly cool and you're done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Great advice, many thanks :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 12 hours ago, TallTayl said: Wicking a bw pillar after a pin is a total pain. You are so right! After pouring 3 pillars last night, I woke up this morning to remove the candles and the pins are completely sealed! Even with vegetable oil, they still manage to seize up. I've put them in the fridge, maybe i'll have more luck in an hour or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Not in the fridge, but under hot water was the solution. There are now 3 less usable pillar pins on this planet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 7, 2016 Share Posted February 7, 2016 3 minutes ago, Xfimpg said: Not in the fridge, but under hot water was the solution. There are now 3 less usable pillar pins on this planet. Oof. Sorry to read this. I usually rely on the deep freezer to pull the sticky candles out. Sometimes takes several days to release. A healthy shot of silicone candle release spray on molds and pins usually works wonders. Onward! To direct wicking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 I didn't have any so I used vegetable oil... didn't work out great. lol Direct wicking it is! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfimpg Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Ok... serenity now.............................. Finished a batch of candles last night; they are completely sealed inside the aluminum mold. This time I didn't use vegetable oil to lubricate the inside before pouring, and there you go. Oh well, re-heat and try again. So I did. I melted another batch, this time lubricating the inside of the mold with vegetable oil. Pouring the melted beeswax, it when right through the bottom hole in the mold, past the square wick and past the metal tape! Please tell me what am I doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 All those symptoms point to pouring too hot. when too hot the wax does not shrink away from the sides of the mold. Stick them in the freezer for a few days and they should pop out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 also get a proper candle spray release. Beeswax mixes with vegetable oil to create a sticky salve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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