Candybee Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Anyone tried both in their soap? I have an oatmeal soap collection but didn't realize I put my red clay soap in it. So wondering if I can mix both clay and oatmeal together? At what % do you think would work? It will be rhasoul (Morroccan Red) clay and colloidal oatmeal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 I put colloidal oatmeal and kaolin clay in all my soaps now. I usually mix them in with my milks and add to the oils before the lye. I use about 1 heaping tsp. per lb. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Thanks Krazekelly. I was sort of sure I could but just wanted to check. I do know if I add too much of either it kills the lather some. I generally use either at 1 tsp PPO. I tend to throw it in with my oils before I add my lye water. I SB so it always emulsifies without any lumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puma52 Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 (edited) Anyone tried both in their soap? I have an oatmeal soap collection but didn't realize I put my red clay soap in it. So wondering if I can mix both clay and oatmeal together? At what % do you think would work? It will be rhasoul (Morroccan Red) clay and colloidal oatmeal.Hi Candybee! In my most popular soap, I use both ground oats (1/2-3/4 (ground) cup per 5 lb batch) and clay (I use Kaolin or Rhassoul clay 2-3 Tablespoons per 5 lb batch) . I do Hot Process soap. The ground oats I blend throughout the whole batch after it is cooked. Then I divide into thirds... I leave one section of the soap in the crock pot (plain) and place one section of soap in a large glass measuring cup (put titanium dioxide in this) and one section in another large glass measuring cup (with whichever clay I use). I love having both in my soaps. Try adding honey to your batch too! LOVE! Edited November 6, 2014 by puma52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Thank you Puma. I use locally produced wildflower honey in all my OMH soaps so it will be in there too! I love honey in soap. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 I LOVE the feel of the cured bar with clay and oatmeal, I just hate making the soap with it. LOL With my recipe it tends to get so thick so quick on me that I always think I'm doing something wrong, but it always makes great soap. I use about 3/4 a tablespoon ppo each, if that helps at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 I use about a teaspoon of Aveda collodial oatmeat pp and have kind of backed off clay for some reason. I like the slip but the texture can get so dense if there's too much. I've even backed off the td and the silk fibers. Quiet Girl's recipe continues to be my favorite and it just doesn't need anything else for my tastes. My other formulas are an all veggie and a tallow heavy one that seem to please customers and all my soaps are 100% goat milk for liquid. I gelled a few on a couple of batches and went back to no gel. Honey is a real booger for me to incorporate and I'm always scared the soap is gonna be sticky but that's just where my soaping head is at lately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 I started using Aveeno colloidal oatmeal last year and love it. It doesn't have any scratchiness in the finished soap and my customers love it. I know what you mean about heavy feeling soap. That's why I tend to use 1 tsp ppo. Also, I usually add lots of stuff in several recipes and the additives can really add up. It can effect the soap's lather and texture so using a minimal amount fixes that for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puma52 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 There is just something about seeing that thick, golden and delicious honey going into your home made soap! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 There is just something about seeing that thick, golden and delicious honey going into your home made soap! Do you add it directly into your soap? I found I got brownish spots in my soap unless I liquify the honey first. Since I make milk soaps I nuke the honey for a few seconds then temper it with whatever milk I am using until I incorporate all the honey into the milk. Its the only way I found I can add honey to my soap without getting those spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Yup, that honey has to be really well melted before adding to the base. I do the same thing and stir the dickens out of it. clay can do the same thing if you don't sb the hound out of it. I line my molds with the small bubble wrap (I'm sure everybody does) and the overall effect is a great seller but it is so labor intensive. I'd like to hear someone else give a shout out for an easier method. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Do you add it directly into your soap? I found I got brownish spots in my soap unless I liquify the honey first. Since I make milk soaps I nuke the honey for a few seconds then temper it with whatever milk I am using until I incorporate all the honey into the milk. Its the only way I found I can add honey to my soap without getting those spots.When I add honey I slightly warm it and add it to my oils before the lye. Works perfectly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 I think we are talking about a similar process. When you heat honey it liquifies. I just found I like to incorporate it into my milk since I make milk soap. I use 1oz honey for a 4 lb batch. Any more and my batch heats up and sometimes cracks. So I found for me that amount works. Love it in my soap! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefmom Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Yup, that honey has to be really well melted before adding to the base. I do the same thing and stir the dickens out of it. clay can do the same thing if you don't sb the hound out of it. I line my molds with the small bubble wrap (I'm sure everybody does) and the overall effect is a great seller but it is so labor intensive. I'd like to hear someone else give a shout out for an easier method.Steve I've been reading a lot about making silicone texture mats with liquid silicone (for my pottery class actually). You could make a bubble wrap silicone mat and cut it to fit inside your mold, then just pop it in, and it should peel off nice and easy from the finished soap loaf. Reusable too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) Candybee, I think you are right, but I don't add it to my milk because when I make a milk soap I use 100% freshly frozen straight from the goat milk, so if I try to add the honey to it (have tried before) it immediately re-solidifies and that's when I get the brown specks and oozies from the honey. So now when I use it I just put it in with my oils, stick-blend well before adding my lye and have never had a problem. Edited November 7, 2014 by Jcandleattic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Candybee, I think you are right, but I don't add it to my milk because when I make a milk soap I use 100% freshly frozen straight from the goat milk, so if I try to add the honey to it (have tried before) it immediately re-solidifies and that's when I get the brown specks and oozies from the honey. So now when I use it I just put it in with my oils, stick-blend well before adding my lye and have never had a problem. I envy you the fresh goat milk! I still have to find a source as most goat farmers in my area won't sell it. I did find one farmer willing to sell it but have to wait for next year's farmer's market and hopefully he will come to the market. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Yup, that honey has to be really well melted before adding to the base. I do the same thing and stir the dickens out of it. clay can do the same thing if you don't sb the hound out of it. I line my molds with the small bubble wrap (I'm sure everybody does) and the overall effect is a great seller but it is so labor intensive. I'd like to hear someone else give a shout out for an easier method.Steve Okay I must be out of the loop. I always wondered how those soaps with the honeycomb indentions were made. I should have guessed bubble wrap. But I am surprised you can pour soap batter directly on it. I assume this means it won't be eaten up by the lye in the batter? I want to try it because I LOVE the look of those honey soaps!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Okay I must be out of the loop. I always wondered how those soaps with the honeycomb indentions were made. I should have guessed bubble wrap. But I am surprised you can pour soap batter directly on it. I assume this means it won't be eaten up by the lye in the batter? I want to try it because I LOVE the look of those honey soaps!!!Sometimes they deflate, but yeah, you can pour your soap right on them. When I do it though it's a one time use. I am never able to use the same bubble wrap again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I envy you the fresh goat milk! I still have to find a source as most goat farmers in my area won't sell it. I did find one farmer willing to sell it but have to wait for next year's farmer's market and hopefully he will come to the market.My kids used to raise goats and sheep for 4-H, and my aunt and cousin have always had a goat/sheep farm, so we can get it whenever they will give it to us. Here lately they are only raising meat goats (Boer's specifically) and not dairy goats (Love me an Alpine goat!) so they get stingy with the milk.(Meat goats don't tend to produce as much milk - basically only what they need to feed the kids - where as dairy goats usually produce in abundance) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 CB, you just cut the bubble wrap to fit the mold. I even went so far as to cover the entire log (top, bottom, sides and ends)in bubble wrap and it worked just fine. I decided that was overkill and only place it on the ends and sides. I stick it to the silicone mold with glycerin and then peel it off when unmolded. Easy peasy. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
puma52 Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) Candybee, Since I do the hot process method only, I wait until the soap is cooked, let it cool to 165 and then I add all the good stuff... fragrance (no morphing), ground oats , vitamin E, clay and the honey which I add directly into my cooked soap...everything stirs in like a dream. Edited November 8, 2014 by puma52 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 CB, you just cut the bubble wrap to fit the mold. I even went so far as to cover the entire log (top, bottom, sides and ends)in bubble wrap and it worked just fine. I decided that was overkill and only place it on the ends and sides. I stick it to the silicone mold with glycerin and then peel it off when unmolded. Easy peasy.Steve If I am using a wood mold I need to line it with freezer wrap. So if I use bubble wrap do I need to put liner underneath it too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 If I am using a wood mold I need to line it with freezer wrap. So if I use bubble wrap do I need to put liner underneath it too?Yes, I would. Just in case of leaks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Another question: how much of the soap does the bubble wrap displace? I assume I would need to remeasure the inside dimensions of the mold with the bubble wrap in it to determine my batch size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 That's a good question that I don't know the answer too. Sorry. I never really paid attention, but only use the bubble wrap rarely, so... Maybe Steve will pipe in again to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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