Gbhunter Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I have been fighting with this wax. I have tried just about every wick. RRD,HTP,CD, Stabillo,Cotton core,square,LX and flat braid. The only one that seems to burn OK is the 45 ply wick, but the flame is rather large and it tends to soot. I will describe how I make my candles.I use 675 mg of feathered palm wax, 1 tbls of palm steric, liquid dye about 16 drops, and 27 mg of F /O. The pour temp is about 210°F. It is poured into an aluminum mold that is 3x6. I do use a wick pin. Can anyone see what maybe wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbhunter Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 (edited) I have been fighting with this wax. I have tried just about every wick. RRD,HTP,CD, Stabillo,Cotton core,square,LX and flat braid. The only one that seems to burn OK is the 45 ply wick, but the flame is rather large and it tends to soot. I will describe how I make my candles.I use 675 mg of feathered palm wax, 1 tbls of palm steric, liquid dye about 16 drops, and 27 mg of F /O. The pour temp is about 210°F. It is poured into an aluminum mold that is 3x6. I do use a wick pin. Can anyone see what maybe wrong? Its not mg it is grams I'm sorry. Edited October 13, 2013 by Gbhunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 (edited) the ply wick does tend to work in palm So does the square braid.Palm burns hotter than paraffin or soy or beeswax.You will get a tall flame if you wick like the other waxes.Try the square braids and go smaller than you think for a test. If you are wicking a palm pillar, do what you need to burn on a 4 hour test. If you are wicking for a glass container, pay close attention to the glass temp. It is very easy and fast to get the glass temp out of control. All that said, if you can get the wick right, palm has a great hot throw and can be loaded heavier than paraffin. Edited October 15, 2013 by EricofAZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbhunter Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 Wonderful. Thank you!The wax recomends 5% f/o load. But I added palm steric will this increase the load?As far as containers go how hot is too hot for a container?ThanksPaul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 (edited) I never used the palm steric. If I read the candle safety website correctly (I think that's where I saw it), then 175 is max for a container. I gotta say, that is way too hot form me. 175 of a liquid can cause third degree burns in 3 seconds (the mcdonald's coffee case). I never let mine get hotter than can be held for a few seconds without feeling like it is burning. We can warn against it, but people are going to pick up a lit container and move it.Another reason why you don't want the container too hot is that there is a temperature differential between the upper area where the burn is and the lower area where the unmelted wax is. If that gradient is too harsh, you can crack the glass right there. Edited October 18, 2013 by EricofAZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svenw Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I'm having trouble with the palm wax that I am using for my testing I'm currently buying it from Hase Petroleum Wax Company. The texture problem I am having is the crystalline pattern it makes on the top of the candle after the pouring it , the look isn't that aesthetic, I want to go for a smooth top finish, so I am thinking we might need to add something to the wax or if anyone knows of a good palm wax wholesaler that might be of assistance I would greatly appreciate it . I'm really struggling and any recommendations would mean a lot! thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flicker Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 The pattern will be through the entire candle with palm. There is no way to have a smooth top and not a textured candle itself. It's just not psossible. If you want a smooth candle I'd suggest paraffin wax. If you want a pretty candle, the palm will have texture throoughout. No way around that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flicker Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 And RRD and Square braid cotton I find the best to wick palm. No point in adding steric, you;re already working with it essentially. In a .3" wide pillar made in their granite or feather I'd say a 1/0 square braid cotton. A 45 ply is WAY too hot for a 3" diameter in that wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unique candles Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hi, I also use rrd,csn for my palm containers and pillars, depending on the fo I might go up or down a wick size, learned that by testing and reading this board and I also pay attention to the flashpoint of my fragrances. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candlefun Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 I use feather palm and glass glow from IGI, and have had luck with the square braid for pillars, and a CD for containers and votives. For the containers and votives, I have one size that works great for most of my color/scent combinations, but I do have to wick up for heavier fragrances or if I'm using a lot of purple or red dye. The pillars are trickier to wick. I may have to wick up or down a couple of sizes to get a good and safe burn. I'm always afraid of that one person that will burn a palm pillar too long and end up with wax dripping onto their antique dresser, or worse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 I have had the best luck with CSN, followed by CDN in both containers (glass glow) and pillars (feather Palm). TopOfMurrayHill did quite a few nice long knockout burn tests comparing wicks on this forum. If you search for posts by TopofMurrayHill with Wick Palm as search words you may strike gold. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcbrook Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 My first go to wicks are the RRDs and then CSNs. In pillars I have been leaning towards the CSNs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazeKelly Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 CSN's worked best for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumina Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I use CSN and also Hemp wicks for my pillars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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