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Finding the Right Wick


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After many months of reading all of the information on here I have finally decided to make my first post!

I am using soy wax (a blend of 3), no additives, no dye, 8 oz apothecary jars (4" diameter), and have been trying to find a wick that works.

These are the ones I have tried:

CD: mushrooming (even without scent added) and flame dances from the start, however, it has the best scent throw

CDN: A little less flame dancing, but still mushrooming

ECO and HTP: Couldn't get a full melt pool and scent throw was much weaker

LX: Most mushrooms out of all of them, scent throw not as good

I still have sampler packs or RRD and Performa but haven't tried them yet.

After all of my testing it looks as though CD/CDN works the best. But my question is - is the mushrooming acceptable?

I have been testing without trimming the wick because I have asked people that have tested my candles if they trim the wick and they say no, regardless of the tips sheet I included. When I don't trim the wick the small mushroom pieces either burn up or fall into the wax. Is that bad to have? It is the only thing that sets the candles apart from not needing to be trimmed.

Thanks for any help!

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I have tested both ways but just was starting to test without trimming since my testers weren't trimming wicks. I am trying to find out if it would work out without trimming. But the mushrooming was happening before when I did trim. Not as bad though.

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Why the blend of 3 soy waxes? I think it may be wisest if you tried each on their own first to learn each ones properties.

I personally don't like to see blends being blended. Ex. GB464 isn't pure soy (if has additives added to it). GB415 is pure soy (no additives).

My rule is, if I want to blend, one of the waxes has to be pure.

I use parasoy. Now I have to decide do I want to add a pure paraffin to a soy blend or should I add a pure soy to a paraffin blend.

Just my $.02!

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Why the blend of 3 soy waxes? I think it may be wisest if you tried each on their own first to learn each ones properties.

I personally don't like to see blends being blended. Ex. GB464 isn't pure soy (if has additives added to it). GB415 is pure soy (no additives).

My rule is, if I want to blend, one of the waxes has to be pure.

I use parasoy. Now I have to decide do I want to add a pure paraffin to a soy blend or should I add a pure soy to a paraffin blend.

Just my $.02!

Have to say that I have had very good results breaking that rule and blending two blended waxes.

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It is interesting because I have tried just about every combination I could think of to blend between the 3 waxes, beeswax, coconut oil, and usa and, ironically enough, the best looking and fastest curing candles turned out to be with the blended waxes and no additives. Of course that was the last one I tried... but it still worked out pretty well.

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I have tested both ways but just was starting to test without trimming since my testers weren't trimming wicks. I am trying to find out if it would work out without trimming. But the mushrooming was happening before when I did trim. Not as bad though.

I believe in testing my self-trimming HTP wicks without trimming because I believe most customers don't trim, and even if only one customer failed to trim I'd want that one customer to be safe and get good performance from their candle. I only use 4627 paraffin right now, but I don't have any problem with mushrooms, smoke, or big flames, no problems at all. At some point I'll try Victory Blend parasoy with self-trimming wicks and I won't trim the wicks then either.

Edited by HorsescentS
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It is possible...it just takes tons of tests to see which type and size consistently work in your system- and your system may need tweaking to achieve it- I would think the simplest and cheapest way would be to test your waxes separate- 1 type only with several different wicks and see which ones work best/ then maybe add 1 other type of wax and test again and then go back to all 3 if using 3 is what you want and like but just keep in mind it may not work using 3 blended waxes and getting a perfect burn- that's where more tweaking and testing comes in-lol

I can tell you though from my maddening experience once you find a wick that works always get it from the same place to try and eleminate any problems

I use CD and have bought from NG for years and my last order they are NOT the same- they changed the neck height which even though they burn the same they burn way to far down in the jar causing way to much heat and I never got an answer from them or an apology let alone a refund! So I then bought from LS and they burn nothing like NG- and the neck height is way taller which I thought would be okay but it leaves over an inch if wax in the bottom of my jar

So now I am still deciding between BCN and CW - they both have the right size neck but if the coating is not the same as NG I am going to have problems- again

So even though I used the same supplier and they changed on me it's still safer than going all over the place buying them because wicks are not equal everywhere

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Chandlerwicks- So you use candlewics CD's and don't have burn issues? The lonestar ones I think have way to much coating- they struggle more than the NG did

I have never ordered from them before- I have a shopping cart up (if it didn't disappear) and of course need to try a few oils...

I use BCN for a few oils but hate how long the shipping takes even though our states are right next to each other!

Thank you so much for offering I really appreciate it but think I will go ahead and go with them and hit checkout- I really like their build your own wick option also for future...last thing I need is another supplier but the reviews about them seem to be good

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Dear New Friends;

I just saw this thread and I felt the need to chime in here and share.

I ONLY use Candlewic wicks, except for a large spool of 2/0 flat braid purchased over 30 years ago in at the Tarpley Shop in Colonial Williamsburg for making HD tapers.

I have many large spools of assorted wicks and many thousand assorted metal wick tabs that I got from Candlewic at closeout or sale pricing over the years.

I've had Candlewic make over 10,000 6" wick assemblies to my exact specifications. I have been delighted with them. They did them up in large plastic bags of 2000 in each bag. I had 4 bags in one size and one bag in another size.

I also have several quite large rolls of both sizes (that I use) of this wick in my inventory. I used to make my own assemblies, until I decided to try the factory made version.

Bill Binder and his brother David are second generation chandlers and suppliers.

I've never spoken with David, but Bill is a very nice guy! I've never met him , but we have called each other on the phone several times.

Bill is a pretty busy guy and you may not be able to talk to him if you call, but they do offer a custom wick building service, which is often (maybe right now) at 50% off pricing.

Since Candlewick has been in business for nearly 50 years, I'm pretty sure they know what they're doing.

I don't want to take anything away from any other suppliers including Peak, but I have tested many wicks from good suppliers and I am sticking forever with what works very well for me.

I switched from IGI-4627 to IGI-4630 several years ago. The 4627 was just a bit too messy for me and even though I'm a big guy, my arms grew tired chopping it up to melt. My wick works awesome in both waxes, though.

I primed my bare wick with CW's high melt point "wicking wax" and they burned fine, but the overall appearance which was visible in the unburned candle was not attractive to me.

I believe Candlewic also primes their wicks, but then adds a beautiful coat of beeswax. They look really nice. I supposed I could do a couple of over dips of BW to acheive the same look, but I'm too lazy to do it.

Before I went into the hospital some time ago, Bill called me and asked me how things were going with my business. He asked my why I had stopped buying his wax, and I admitted I was using IGI wax and his wax was now propietary for CW and unfamiliar to me. He laughed and told me, I would be surprised to know how much wax he bought from IGI.

He sent me three one pound samples of his CW-123 wax which I have to admit was right on with 4630. His "One-Pour/Para-Soy/Container Blend", which I bought many cases of, CHEAPLY, was, I'm now sure, IGI-6006.

I didn't have the heart though to tell him I was getting my wax from another supplier at about $10.00 a case cheaper at that time. Something tells me if I had brought it up he might have matched their price. He seem's like that kind of guy to me. I really like him.

I hope he does'nt read or hear about this, but if your're searching for really consistant and well constructed assemblies I would suggest you give tham a call. If you both might agree on the same wick you might share a batch or two and save some loot.

I have bought loads of closeouts from Bill, including fragrances (awesome), molds, wicks, dyes, additives, waxes, jars, lids and accessories over the years.

I forgot what the price was, but I bought 5000 clear poly-carbonate tea light molds the price was so good. I also bought a tractor trailer load (major exageration) of Lovespell when they had it on sale @ $11.00 a bottle. Four of his closeout fragrances are on my top twenty sales list.

Their sales usually run for two weeks and are featured each month. They have a newsletter "The Enlightener" that you can subscribe to. I enjoy getting it. Shiipping is fast and properly priced by UPS.

Now the "OUCH" part; My wick specifications are propietary (secret). It's the only aspect of candle-making I won't discuss on any board. Even my wife does not know the specs. I'm afraid she will slip in the shop where everyone asks where we buy our stuff and everyone in the neighborhood will making our candles. I never see them mentioned in the boards, though.

Sorry! That's about all I can offer. We all (mostly) have a business to run.

JMO/HTH

Dave

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