Grani L

The only thing I didnt like about the 12 oz Masons was the flame Huula danced too much for me. I had poured Blueberry Muffin into that Jar. The Throw was out of this world, but the wick seemed to scream for air at a FMP. Unless that is the norm. That jar is pretty easy to wick.

So for using either straight sided jar or jars with the shoulder (Which I am going to try next) do you find yourself topping off a lot? The reason I ask is, I have poured from 130 - up to 175 and have gotten sink holes and shrunken wax. I had made a 4630 / 464 blend a few weeks ago. Both were the status jars. One- there was a sink hole around the wick - but nothing that the heat gun couldnt handle. The other one was Perfect --so I thought... until I burned it. It burned for about 1 minute, and then the flame got really big. And of course the surprise was a big hole that was under the surface. So I learned from that experience that the pour temperatures are very important and testing is the Most Important. So 4630 does shrink. So my question is, Does adding 464 to the 4630 decrease shrinkage? My blend was 80% 464 and 20% 4630. Very beautiful texture and nice smooth tops after burning. My work area is usually around 80 Degrees. I try to pour around 170 - 175.

I currently test the status jar with cds, zinc, and htp.

Do you single wick that jar?

Good Morning, I am currently testing 4630 straight and blended, and as others have experienced, the throw is not really where I want it for various scents. I am using the 12 oz Status. I am picking out the scents that do throw strong using that jar, which one is "Birds of Paradise" from Peaks, and also "Mulberry" from Candle Wic -- but do you suggest other jars that I may get a better throw? Or can you suggest the scents w/ supplier that does throw strong if you use that jar? I am using Zinc, and CD wicks. I know the apothecary will give a nice throw, but I haven't ventured into the double wicking part of the woods yet, although I have read that a CD 20 or CD 22 may do the trick with some scents. But currently, I have my eye on the Salsa Jar. To the basics, I am looking for a Jar that my wax will throw well in and is fairly easy to wick. Anyway, If you have any suggestions, I would appreciate your input. Thanks.

I need to get some eco 8's to test. Thanks.

Its an eco 10. I trimmed the wick to a 1/4 inch and the flame went down till it went out. I scooped out the wax and smoothed it out and left the wick at 1/2 inch and I got a very hot jar and fmp of about a 1/2inch deep in 3 hours on the second burn. The eco may be a bad choice for this jar type.

Just wondering...... For those that use Eco wicks...after the wax has become solid, and you trim the wick, if I trim it to 1/4 in b-4 lighting, the flame is small and continue to get smaller until it goes out. If I trim it to about 1/2 inch before burning,the flame is too high. I dont have this issue with the CD wick...I trim it to a 1/4 inch and the flame grows to a nice size. Does anyone have any suggetions for the eco wick? I'm testing it in 464, in a 3inch Diam Status Jar.

An HTP 104 shall it be then. Test time. Thank you both for your help.

I will do some tesing with the your suggestions on that formula. I really like that blend. I dont have any more of that FO but I do have the same jar but with NG's monkey farts. This I made last week and will test this week. This formula is 4630 at 80% and 464 at 20%. I have cd's and htp's. I have 3 jars to test. Which wick would you suggest as a starting point?

Good Morning to all, Would anyone have any helpful suggestions? My ratio is 80% 464 and 20%4630. Using thhe 12oz D.Tree st atus for testing, 1 oz FO( candlewics mulberry) and a CD 12 wick,, all was wellat first. All hangup caught up n th e 3rd burn, with a steady flame and a MP of 1/4 and pretty clean sides. The throw is nice, and I trim the wicks before each burn. The second half of the jar burning, the flame has not stopped moving., and I am getting big mushrooms in 3 -4 hours time. I have gotten 43 hours of burn time time so far. The last 2-3 burns, the top has gotten pretty hot. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thank You. I hope to get some throwers. I have used coconut and pina Colada from Candles and Supplies in a 3 inch diam. Jar, and not hot throw. I used a couple fo's from Candle wic and still no throw. My testing proved the CD 18 was too big. I took it down to a CD 12 and still no hot throw. Testing was after a 2 week cure. FO's from Candle wick was Tropical Paradise, and Fruit Slices. They smell the best as far as cold throw. But for Hot throw, the Fruit Slices smelled up the house with its fuel like odor and the Tropical Paradise - no hot throw at all. So if I went down to the smallest wick for that container I am guessing it is the wrong wick type or get my FO's else where. Usage 1 oz. pp.

For users of Ecosoya 135- I am getting ready to order some FO's from NG and Peaks. Are there any that are recommended that throw in this wax? I currently use CD wicks. I am currently testing tropical paradise from Candle wic and am not getting any HT from it, this candle was made 2 weeks ago. I have a CD 18 in a 12oz status. I know that monkey fart and blackcherry bomb from NG throws in 464, but any help will be apprciated. Thanks.

Thanks.

Hello, just a quick question – I am beginning to do testing with Container Candles, which is already a soft wax. Currently using Ecosoya 135. So, one thing I have noticed is that inside of the melt pool is a bit murky- not opaque like some store bought candles that I have observed. But is it correct to assume the only basic reason to add additives would be for reasons to be able to add more FO so It won’t leak out, or to harden the wax, or to just give the candle a certain look-- It appears that all the additives – Vybar, Stearic Acid, Gloss Poly / Luster Crystals, Translucent Crystals, and Microcrystalline Waxes – these all are hardeners, and or FO retainers. So unless you are making your own blend with a straight wax, what is the other purpose when you can buy a harder MP wax – I just wonder would the murkiness still be in the harder MP wax- I haven’t tested? But I wouldn’t want to be back at square one, with a harder wax , still with the same murky issue going on. So, my point is I would like for my Melt Pool to be nice and clear –I will test but if anyone could give me what direction to go in, I would appreciate it. Although there is no wax left on the side of the jar by the third burn, it is a light milkshake type of film left on the sides. The result I want is a fairly clear Jar and a clear Melt Pool. So what additive can be used for SOY to clear the Melt Pool? Or should I just forget possible additives and just blend it with a wax – as I have thought to blend it with J223. I have blended 135 with 4630, 70 /30 – this Melt Pool was pretty Clear, as well the Jar Sides, but the cold throw seemed to be almost nonexistent compared to the cold throw of Straight 135. - So please, any suggestions will be appreciated-

I recently made tarts with this wax - not bleneded with anything, just straight. I used the metal tart molds. They popped out of the mold with no issue. Now after I put them on the melter and they hardened back up again, they were stuck in the plate. Ok- I did put it in the freezer and it came right out, but if I add Palm Stearic acid to it, would that omit the freezer step so it can just come right out of the plate and not be stuck? Any ideas would be appreciated. Also, has anyone had success blending this wax?

Using cb 135, if I add a little stearic acid, will it help to clear the melt pool from its cloudy look without affecting the wick?

Does anyone know what the difference is between these 2 waxes besides the mp?

Thanks a lot.

In Response to Alan - I did use 6% FO - When you say Incomplete Combustion, does that mean it is a wicking issues, a process issue or pour temp issue? I heated to 175 - added FO at 165- And Poured at 150 - 155. All the tops were perfect. I will retest the Candle over again - Eco Soya 135 - Only FO and Wax, with less FO - Previous Wicks were CD 16, LX 18, and CD 20. -- The CD 20 was fine at first, but on the third burn, the Flame got really high. The CD 16, on the third burn, the sides still werent quite clean, as I will contine to test this wick. The LX I will also Contiue to test, as it had cleared the sides. - All are being tested using a -12 oz Dollar Tree status type jar. Do you have any wicking suggestions or any other techniques that I may apply?

Ok.. I will put the 415 on my list to test. Do u use the cdn's for heavier fo's?

Moonshine - with the 415 being 100% soy, do you blend this wax with another soy or paraffin and use any additives, or do you only use Wax, wick, and FO? I may pick up a box of the 415 to test.

Alright- I will continue to monitor as it burns down and see if or not it will come together at some point. If not, I will wick up. Is there another wick recommendation besides the CD for Ecosoya 135? And if I was to blend this wax with paraffin, would CD wicks still be sufficient? I have read that LX was better for this wax.

Bidding a good day to all. I have a question concerning step #1 of candle testing. I heated to 175 and poured the Ecosoya 135 at 150. No FO. Only Wick and Wax. Used a CD 10 Wick and an 8 oz Tin. -- Tops were perfect after set up. So after a couple days, (on last night) I tested it. It burned beautifully for 3 1/2 hours. It didnt fully reach the sides of the container, and the container wasnt too hot. But I believe it will melt down as the sides warm on further burnings. So when I looked at it this morning, the top looked rough, not smooth. So my question is, what is my next move? What additive should I test and add to this wick and wax combo to smooth the top? I can not move on to adding any FO until I get this straight! Thanks

Never mind, I read the directions and it was in there. Thanks