Grani L

Hello - Just wondering, which wick is comsidered a Braided Cotton Lead Free Wick? Is it the RRD or the Cotton Core, or ????? Just wondering. Thanks

Grani L here again My Friends... -- Ok - I use 464 - 8 oz Square Masons, 12 oz mayo Jars and looking to test the 12 oz Status - (the one from Dollar Tree.) If anyone uses the 12 oz status, How long after they are poured should they begin to solidify? I am sure the 8 oz would start to solidify faster because it is smaller, but is there a specific timing which could affect the outcome such as sink holes and or HT? -- Should the jars be poured Hotter or Cooler because of their sizes? My Scenerio.... Drum Roll Please..................... Dun Dun Dunnnnn.......... The 12 oz Libby- Heated to 185 - Added Color-- Poured into the Pour Pot- the Temp Dropped immediately to 159 (This was a glass measuring cup) added the FO --Stirred down to 139 and Poured into the 12 oz status-- It started to Solidify in 22 Minutes. I went to bed. The Next Morning, the CT was to die for. (Fruit Slices) -- Glass Adhension was perfect- no frost - but the middle was like caved and seperated ( as if someone was trying to cut a whole in the middle. _- other than that, it was perfect. The Wax was poured to about 1/2 inch from the top. ( This may have been too much in the jar...) Anyway, What did I do wrong? All comments would be greatly Appreciated. Thanks in Advance!! Grani L.

thanks

Did you add USA or any additives to 444?

agreed- Never mind. I got my answer.

I am doing favors for a Bridal Shower- But I have the basic Idea, I only was wondering if anyone had used that FO- HOW MUCH I would need for basically per pound of wax. For example, I did sweet orange chili pepper in the 8 oz tin. I did 3. One - A CD 10, One a CD 12, and the other a CD 14. I tested these. The CD 10 tunnled for about 2 - 3 hour burn sessons. On the 3rd burn I noticed that some of the hangup began to melt down- "Catching Up" as they call it. But the Throw wasnt all that strong. --And I dont want to forget about the faint Fuel smell---but I think I have that eliminated. As i have remade these. Anyway, The CD 12 seemed to burn a bit hotter than the 14, but both these had a better throw than the CD 10. Oh how do I know that? They were all tested in the bathroom, in which I could smell the 12 and 14 floating out into the hall. The 10 had some trouble making it into the hall. Oh but were the containers piping hot? um-- the CD 12 was actually Hotter than the 14, which I also thought was a bit weird. But no, they were not Piping hot as some of the jars get from Yankee Candle. The CD 10 was quite Cool. I previously tested the Black Cherry and was quite satisfied with the HT at .5 oz, but it seems like when you do more than 1 pound of wax, you can actually used LESS FO ( at least it is with my recipe) That is the reason I asked if anyone had used that Type of FO- I only needed to know about how much they used to satisfy a pound. The question was based around not WASTING FO, knowing the amount of candles that I needed. Had time not have been soo close, I would have just tested it as I have done my other FO's, Wicks, and Jar sizes. Thanks, Grani L

Grani L here again my friends. First of all I hope everyone's day is blessed. As for plans tonight, I will be pouring Honey Suckle and Frust Slices into 8 oz tins - 24 total candles, with either a CD 12 or CD 14 wick. The FO's are from Candles and Supplies in PA. They smelled so good in the store, I decided to go ahead and purchase the 2 FO's. I am still learning the FO phase, as far as about 1 oz / Per Pound for the basics, but has anyone used these two FO's and have any suggestions on how much to used or should I just trial and error it? I Poured black cherry last night and did 1 oz for 2 lb. I think I should have only used .7oz because it is soo strong. I could smell them down the hallway this morning when I woke up. But if anyone has any info on these types of FO's, and or wick sizes, please let me know. I greatly appreaciate your responses!! Grani L

Yup- the wicks kinda had me puzzled for a lil bit. But I have an 8 oz Square Mason with LILY of the Valley FO- It was pretty strong - I used .5 of an ounce / lb. I am currently testing that in the 8oz square. It throws pretty nice and I have a CD 14 in it. I have burned it maybe 3 times already, 3 hours each time, and hardly any wax is gone. The jar hasn't got too hot as of yet. But then again I need to see how it is when the wax begin to go down. The CT throw is pretty strong, the HT also floats out of the Bedroom. Now the 8 oz Ball Mason, ( I got them out of Shop Rite) I had CD 10 / CD 12 for testing those Jars. Black Cherry Bomb and Monkey Fart. The Black Cherry Bomb w/ 1 Tsp CO and .5 FO and the Monkey Fart with 1 Tsp Crisco and 1oz FO. The Black Cherry Bomb was the bomb since I lit it after 3 days of Curing, and again, it started out strong. . The Glass did get really hot til after the wax burned all the way down, but it sot even better with each burn. But the CD 12 seemed to bring the best out of the HT.The Monkey Fart needed at least 7 - 8 days to cure. At first I thought I would make it again because the HT was so faint. But like on the Third burn it started smelling into the hall and it also smelled really good as the wax started going down. I wanted to Drink the wax. Anyway, Good Luck all!!!

Wow. Ok. Well, I guess, I will get some some USA and see. So there would be no solid reason to add UV to non colored candles?

With the 8 oz tin, after a 3 hour burn, using the CD 12 and 14, the tins weren't that hot, but on another note, I am going to light all three again, and feel the sides again, and pay strict attention. I dont have my notes handy, but I remember feeling them, and they werent that hot.I have learned that as the wax burns, above it gets hotter, which will cause any hangup to catch up. Now the 8 oz Mason Ball Jars were another story. As the wick burned down lower, they got hotter above where there was no wax. But the HT was really really nice. ( I tested those with CD 10 and CD 12. The CD 12's seemed to give a better throw, but like I said as they burned down, the HT got better and better. Not only that, the CD10 TIN I burned about 3 times; 3- 4 hours each time, and there was a lot of hang up left on the side. The 12 and 14 burned down pretty good, with the 12 seeming to burn hotter than the 14. Looking at the melt pool from the middle to the sides, the 14 reached the sides before the 12 did on the initial burn which to me is normal; I tested them at the same time. On the second burn after trimming the wick, the CD 12 reached the sides before the 14 did. It is just so weird. Then, I accidently spilled some of one of the melted wax on my hand and I jumped--- Only to realize, the wax wasnt hot at all!! LOL!! I have got some serious wax investigations to perform.

Grani L here again my friends, I am getting ready to pour Honeysuckle later on today. Any tips on this as far as FO percentage. I am using 8 oz tins and still trying to decide between CD 12 and CD 14 wicks. Also I usually heat to 185 and pour around 165, but with certain FO's such as Citrus, should I add the FO at a lower temp - (160ish?) I had used the Sweet Orange Chili Pepper from Natures Garden in the 8 oz tins with CD 12 and CD 14 wicks and a Peach Liquid Dye and I could smell a fuel smell. Mind you, the SOCP scent was throwiing out of the bathroom so nice, I kept walking back and forth, but when i went into the bathroom, there was a fuel type of smell going on. Now I know for a fact that the Dye has a Fuelly/ Gassy type of odor too. I made a batch of Sweet Orange Chili Pepper last night with out the dye. So far CT wise, there is no fuel smell like it was with the other testers. But if anyone has any info, please let me know. Thank you all. Grani L

I am still doing testing and I was wondering, I notice that after my candles burn, the tops are not so nice looking after they resolidify. Its like the wax dont come back together smoothly. My question is, does the USA help to bring the wax together? And the UV inhibitor- My candles have a white ring around them after burning and resolidifying, and they are discolored in the colored and noncolored candles. What exaclty does the UV do for the colored and uncolored candles, and does it in any way affect the texture of the wax? My initial pour results in very nice smooth tops. Thank you all in advance.

Also, does the 444 have the same mottled holey type of look after its burned like the 464?

Thanks for your Reponses. I didnt mean to leave them in the car, I had forgot to bring them inside with me. I guess I will try to blend 464 with 444. I had a thought to Blend with CBA. Any thoughts on this?

Hello All. I am fairly new at making candles and I have a question to those seasoned 464 Chandlers. On Sunday, I bought some tester candles to church with me for someone and I had left them in my car. And of Course they had melted to a certain extent, and its wasnt that hot out, but my car windows were up. This made me think of the summer months. So for those who have been using the GB 464, during the summer do you use an additive to it to make it harder or do you switch to a different wax?