CaftCandles

Stella, I found that by accident while looking for something similar, Got Lucky! The Link I posted is where I got mine and don't let it being a "second quality" fool you, I cannot see anything defected on mine. It took me about an hour to note the temperature range (the dial doesn't have numbers) with my digital thermometer and now I know where to set the dial for the temp I want and it has good repeatability. It comes with a large diameter bowl which works really well but I also use a SS Condiment cup to simulate the throw from a smaller diameter warmer. Since I got one it has given me a lot of incite into the affects of MP temp and the release of the volatiles which help me with wicking candles. I highly recommend one! Good Luck.

chuck_35550, I wasn't trying to be rude and was not refering to you as being reliable, or unreliable for that matter. I was refering to the NCA being a more reliable resource than I because it appeared as if someone wasn't absorbing the information that was being shared by myself and others. There were several post and references in this thread (not by you) that I felt to be rude and when I typed out that reply it was not to be rude to you but to clarify some things that were covered several times on previous post. The original question by the OP is listed below (for reference), someone jumped in and tried to make this thread their own instead of reading through the thread where all of the questions posed was answered by several participants, several times, then posted some rude schoolhouse comments, totally blowing off the efforts of others as if they were the only one with a problem that needed attention. There were no bad intentions towards you in that post. Does melt pool temp have anything to do with scent throw

The distance is not important as long as your not standing across the room. I've used them for years at work, not for candlemaking the real expensive ones and we only ever used for for a quick reference and not for an accurate reading. I have one and I compared it to my digital thermomenter (that is accurate) and it only reads close to the temperature. HTH

That statement covers all product types. Weight or mass or measure or numerical count, it has to only be one of these depending on the type of product. Measure would normally refer to the size or dimentions of the product and the numerical count refers to how many is in the package like case quantity for example. "The net quantity of contents (in terms of weight or mass, measure, or numerical count) shall be separately and accurately stated in a uniform location upon the principal display panel of that label, using the most appropriate units of both the customary inch/pound system of measure."

Stella, I completley agree! I don't know if anyone knows or not but the ASTM has slightly changed their recommendations pertaining too Fire Safety Labeling. This is just for information, if anyone is interested. "NEW PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS FOR CANDLES WITH PACKAGING" (Must be Placed on the Top or Sides of the Package) If the Warning is put on the Bottom of the Package, The words "See Bottom Panel For Safety Information" must appear on the Top or Side of the Packaging. Again, I'm mearly passing on information so don't blame the messanger.

Everything stated earlier was per the original question. If you don't care to believe what was talked about then maybe you will believe it from a MORE RELIABLE SOURCE. "The aroma from a lighted scented candle is released through the evaporation of the fragrance from the hot wax pool and from the solid candle itself." taken from the "NATIONAL CANDLE ASSOC." http://www.candles.org/elements_fragrance.html

Yep! Well, I have never been accused of being a Chemist or a Scientist for that matter. As far as what I wrote about the long chain molecules locking in FOs is what I am theorizing about and it will be some time before I can prove or disprove anything about it. It was the other parts that I was asking your input on, Sorry I should have explained a little better, I've never been accused of being a writer either, lol. One of the first investments I made when I started candle making was a variable tempreature wax tart warmer (http://www.tartburners.com/vahecawatabu.html) so I could adjust the temp. slowly too see at what temps you could get the optimum fragrance throw. One of the people I have testing for me uses a Shitsy plug-in warmer and she would not get ANY throw using my wax melts so I had to do some testing. Her warmer gets extreamly hot and would kill the throw in any wax that had a low melting temp so I reformulated to compensate and now with that same little warmer she is able to fill a large open area of her home with fragrance which is what lead me to do more research on the MP temp. By testing this way I can adjust the temp from 110 degrees to 210 degrees and hold it at whatever temp I want (respectivly) for observation and to determine how long they will last. I found that they work best in the 160 to 170 range and will last for 8-10 hours for most FOs and longer for others, but when the temp is raised above 180 the lasting time will plummet. I've had melts that would normally last for 8 plus hours, that at 190 to 210 degrees would only last for about 2 hours which is why I know "cooking" or adding FOs at too high of a temp will dramitically effect the final product. All data that I've managed to acquire from FO Manufacturers recommend to add FOs just before pouring so as not to cook it off. FOs to my knowledge share a lot of the same qualities of wax when melted and I know from years of working around oil and chemicals that to blend to liquids together easily they must have a Specific Gravity that is similar like wax and FOs. If the SG differs greatly then other means will be required, but in the case of wax and FOs, a little gentle stirring is more than sufficient so that makes me question, why would someone want to put a lot of effort in blending something that doesn't require it? Cooking oil or Crude Oil has a range of Specific Gravity that spans from 0.60 to 0.85 which is much lighter than water which is why oil floats on water. To blend those two you would have to do one of many other methods and would need an additive to keep them from separating. Because wax and FOs SG are so close they will bend with little effort and remain blended if you stop stirring. Ok! Thats enough for now! lol

I agree with Stella! I am no expert at wicking candles (yet) but I have been doing some specific testing to figure out on a scientific level, what causes HT and how the candle flame can in one instance enhance it and kill it in another. My test results are not yet complete but this is what I've learned so far. The temp and size of the MP is very important, depth of the MP has like Stella noted, has nothing to do with it, it's all about surface area and temp. FOs will release their volatille chemicals (fragrant molecules) best at or above certain temps (depending the FO) but without any air flow they will just linger around the candle. To get the fragrance to spread you will need some type of air flow which is where the wick comes into play. The wick by burning creates a convection of air over the MP which will carry the fragrance molecules up and into the air spreading and mixing them throught the room. Sounds easy but not so fast, if the flame is too small the MP may not get hot enough to release the molecules and there will not be enough air current to lift the fragrance from the MP or if the flame is too hot it will vaporize the fragrance molecules then there will be NO HT. The wax and certain additives can also aid or destroy the HT as well as over mixing or adding you FO to melted wax to early (allowing to cook). I know I will probably get my hand slapped for the "over mixing" part but IMO it is possible just like when in baking a cake or bread. I know some of you have heard or know of someone that bakes the "BEST" whatever cakes or breads and even with the same recipe no one can reproduce them. It is all about the timing and care involved and not so much the ingredients. If you overwork bread or a cake batter the result will be a tough and semi bland dough, this is because the excessive mixing caused a longer and more complex string of molecules to form strengthening the fibers of the dough, toughening it and holding in the flavors. I BELIEVE the same thing can happen with the FOs in wax, if over blended the wax can lock in the FOs and reduce or kill the HT. Either way it is a very delicate balance between several factors and the trick is to find a good marriage between the wick, wax, FO and technique that will create a flame that will release the fragrance without vaporizing it and will create a good air flow to carry them. As I said, I am not done will testing all of these theories yet so I don't complete data to support everything but I'm working on it. Stella, I would like your opinion and of course, your criticism if needed.

WoooWWWWW!!! I have never had any reservations about standing up to whoever for what I believe in, but for you I might! What a combo, you peaked my interest and scared me at the same time. LMAO

Wow! This has been going on for almost 2 years, your patience is far greater than mine. I sure a well placed camera and small claims court would probably take care of that problem. It has been my experience that people that resort to lies and trickery will take short cuts when making their products which means that yours is probably superior to his in the first place. I must say, I can put up with a lot of crap like him saying that his products are the best in the world but if he came to my booth or store and talked trash and guided a customer away, he would find himself lying on the asphalt in the parking lot leaking body fluids. That type of competition is uncalled for and totally unacceptable and WILL NOT BE TOLERATED! Stick to your guns and don't let this guy win. Like I said, a well placed camera will make all of your problems go away. Good Luck!

Your right! They do move the wick bars off to the side but they do that for a reason. Because the wax / FO & Dye are being blended in the wand the pourers move them aside so they can move to wand around to aid in blending. Someone will come behind them and stratighten them before they set up, they just dont show it in the video because its all about the equipment. BUT! The workers still have the expressions of "Trained Monkeys", which is basically what they are. With that in mind, the ones off center that you have seen is probably due to poor QA/QC and poor Management to enforce it.

What temperature do you heat your wax and dye mixture? It may not be hot enough to blend properly.

The intent is not "Stupid" or an "Argument". A statement was made by you that was incorrect and we were simply tring to correct it and help out. You are intitled to your opinion and to your own methods if that's what you wish to believe or use, but when you make a post in a public forum like you did it is our responsibility to correct it because there may be some people learning from poor information and spreading the illness. No matter what you or I think, grams is now and will always be more precise or accurate than ounces when you compare scales with the same resolution (meaning if one reads .001 then the other should as well). You cannont compare a scale that has a resolution of 5 grams to one that has a resolution of .001 oz, Apples & Oranges. Again! Apples & Oranges. This statement was just rude and totaly uncalled for! Logic is something for the moment has escaped you!

I think moving in your parents garage will get you out of your immediate situation but will not allow much room for improvement. I unfortunatly didn't think about my future when I was young and how I've paid for it over the years. I on several occasions had to live with family and friends over the years to make ends meet and that never turned out well (for me at least). I've always been curtious and respectful to their home and life style and tried to stay out of their way and no matter what I did everything was always my fault, I was costing them extra money, Not! I lost several friends and some of my family and I still only talk when we have to. It's a loose, loose situation! That is why I suggested you start planning to get a place of your own, somewhere that you don't have to curtious, respectful or even nice if you don't want to. If you really want to get crazy you can make candles at midnight in the nude (I don't recommend that) without having to worry about waking or offending anyone. Like good fences make good neighbors, your own place keeps your family and friends, your family and friends. BTW, throw that bed out of your room and store your candles in there, your young! you can sleep when you get to be my age! LOL Good Luck!

I guess I can't argue one way or the other after I've searched the net for more information. One site says high temp and another says low temp but that information comes from wax suppliers, I couldn't find any manufacturer recommendations. I know on a moleculare level there is no reason to heat your wax or FOs that high to achieve a good looking and burning candle unless you are blending waxes or certain dyes and additives. I know to create a molecular bond of waxes for example you need to heat it between 185 and 200 (depending on waxes and additives) to get them to bind together and become one. As far as FOs they don't need to be binded together with wax on a molecular level, just adequately blended because they share most of the same properties. In fact if you do bind your FOs molecularly it is probable that you will lock it in the wax and will get a poor HT, just like adding to much Vybar, which does the same thing. I see that many people say that you must add your FOs at a certain temp to give you a good HT which may be true however you will loose a lot of throw due to evaporation (being cooked out) at those temperatures therefore shortening or weakening the performance. I've done a lot of testing to figure out why you get great, mind blowing HT with one wick and nill with another, and in my testing I've learned that FOs no matter if in wax or not has a narrow temp range that they work best at (depending on FO type). I have been able to tweek (raise) that range with different waxes at higher temps but with sacrafice to the length of performance, meaning that you can get a great HT at a high temp but for a shorter period of time suggesting that at higher temps, the FOs cook off quicker. The wick that you use is what should do all of the work to heat the FO and release the fragrance through vaporization. Everything I've read and learned states that FOs should be added just before you pour so as not to loose any (cook them off) while they are setting up. I've tried it, I do it, and I don't stir FOs in wax for 1 min, 3 min or whatever others claim they do, I gently mix it until I see no more FO lingering in the wax and it works well as long as you do not create any thermal shock when you combine them or when you pour into the containers which will give you an ugly candle but not an adverse affect on performance. Look at the videos on this site of some candle pouring equipment that blends FOs and dyes as the wax is being poured into the containers. IMO this is the correct way and definatly the most efficient. http://www.coogarproducts.com/products/pumpers/mark.htm I'm interested to hear your results.

So far I've only tried the 4630, 80/20 and it is now about 2 molecules away from being plastic. The top is fugly, it is still extreamly hard and has the smell of a cheap plastic toy. All of these results is also using 10% FO load. Tomorrow I will try a 50/50 blend to see if that helps, today I'm to aggravated to do it, must be having another "I hate the world" moment. I will post the results. 4627 is on my list if I can't get the results I want with 4630. If that near Vasoline wax doesn't change the molecular structure I will give up and never attempt to convert palstic into a useable product in candle making again.

Ultimatly if you wish to continue with your buisness I would think that you would want a dedicated location of your own. I'm assuming that you are using the income from your candles to cover your education and living expenses. I have to say that I have seen more people struggle and most of them fail for that same reason. If you must use the income from your buisness, try to limit yourself and save all of the money you can to help you get a ligitamate office or shop (shed in some cases) and to help your buisness grow. It sounds like you are doing really well with your buisness and that is awesome for a young entrepreneur like yourself, congrats! I know things get exciting at times handling and controlling cash flow in a buisness but incoming money is not always "free" or "available" money, you always have to set aside for more supplies and yes even for expanision. In my opinion it would be better for you to get a rental property (something small and economical) to keep your supplies secure and to mantain a constant temperature to keep your products from freaking out due to temp swings. This will give you more flexibility and a fixed location that your customers will feel more comfortable with and take away your worries of having to move at the last minute in the future. A storage unit I believe will give you a multitude of problems with power requirements and temperature swings. I don't know about in your area but I've seen some that will not allow anyone to have anything plugged in other than the provided light (bulb) in the storage unit and others that will not allow anyone to run a buisness out of them. You're young and doing well already in buisness and who knows you may be the next of the big companies (I wont say the names) that we all stive to be better than. Make sacrifices and grow your buisness now and it will assuredly take care of you in the future. HTH

I was just looking through this post an noticed that no one answered the original question. I just bought a slab of this wax to try and so far it seems that this "Special Blend" is aboout one molecule different than plastic. It is very hard and definatly has a higher meling point and once cured it even smells a little like plastic. I am doing some blending now to see if I can blend that out of it but no luck so far. I was just wondering if someone else has tried this blend yet?

Warning lables for those who actually read them (smart people) are often humorous. Preparation-H has on thier label "Not for oral consumption", talk about confusion if you can't figure out which end to insert it. I, like all of you have seen many, "don't put this in that!", "Keep that away from this", "Don't eat this, don't eat that", and "For external use only", but the scary (and sometime humorous) part is that for them to put the warning on the box means that at some point someone has tried it! "Common sence is not that Common" Voltaire

Here is an update from Luis for all of those interested: "We have just finished moving to our new office over the weekend and so it has taken longer to re open the doors than expected. I hope to have the eBay listings up by the end of the week. I will definitely have the top 10 best sellers listed and then grow the list from there."

Wow! Are you blending the 4627 with another wax or with an additive? I am not as experienced as others on this board but I did do a lot of testing with that wax and I cannot think of any reason why you would heat it that hot unless you are blending. Peaks French Vanilla has a FP of 200 degress and I'm afraid it is vaporing off due to the high temp. I don't use 4627 because it just don't burn to my likeing but everything I tested in it would throw really well. I've always added my FOs at 170 and poured at 160 but that will depend on your system, you may need to go a little hotter. For container wax I never go above 180 unless I am blending multiple waxes or additives. I think everything you are doing is to hot but maybe some else who has more experience with that wax than I do and has a better opinion.

Yes, if you are going to weigh your FO then that is perfect (8.55 grams) added to the 95 grams of wax. If you are trying to use Milliliters then you have to do the math to be accurate and you need to find the Specific Gravity then I can help you calculate it if needed.

9% of 95 grams is 8.55 grams by weight. To figure this to measure in Milliliters you will need to know what the Specific Gravity is of the FO is. The conversion of 8.55 grams is the same in Millilieters (8.55ml) if you are using water, but to get the actual volume of 8.55 grams of your FO you must multiply 8.55 by the Specific Gravity of that FO and it will give you your amount in Milliliters. The Specific Gravity should be on the MSDS Sheet for the FO or you can contact the Manufacturer or supplier. It is much easier to weigh your FO's so as not to have to make so many conversions and it is more accurate. If accuracy is not that important to you then just add 8.55 milliliters to your wax, for some people that is close enough. HTH

Taken from Wiki, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accuracy_and_precision "A measurement system can be accurate but not precise, precise but not accurate, neither, or both. For example, if an experiment contains a systematic error, then increasing the sample size generally increases precision but does not improve accuracy. The end result would be a consistent yet inaccurate string of results from the flawed experiment. Eliminating the systematic error improves accuracy but does not change precision." I agree Sliver, I was mearly pointing out that with a small batch your error can be substantial enough to throw off a quality burn of your candle and for some it woould give some really confusing test results. I measure accuratly no matter what size batch I make due to the consistancy and material loss pointed out by Stella. The original statement made by robertgibbens was that ounces is more accurate (precise) than grams and that is simply not true!

To correct my previous statement before someone else does. Accuracy is all in the scales you use and the resolution it is designed to display. Precision is the word in question. Grams are more precise than ounces due to its smaller incremental scale therefore giving you more accurate results when formulating a candle.