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rjdaines

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Posts posted by rjdaines

  1. Looks pretty normal to me. 4794 is a great votive wax, so stick with it. It is designed to shrink (so you can get it out of the holder) and you are seeing different amounts of shrinkage based on uneven cooling. Can't do much about it with a seconded pour so the heat gun is your best bet for flat tops. And, yes, be careful or you will blow wax off the top. If the votives are for me, I leave them as shown in your photo.

  2. How do we determine which FO is a "heavier" one compared to another. I guess what I am asking is do I need to test burn every FO to determine the wick for it. Either a larger wick or a smaller wick.

    Yes, you need to test all FOs and retest if you make major changes in your wax formula.

  3. That's a fairly small candle, kind of like a votive, how deep and wide of a melt pool are you getting? If that were straight paraffin, I'd be using a LX-8 or LX-10, maybe your consumption is too high with the wick you are using. With parasoy I have tried a CD-5 in a 2 inch container and it works well. Could you be over wicked?

  4. Not all FOs work in all waxes and fewer work in soy. Read comments on an FO and see if people claim it works in soy, then notice if they are using the same soy as you. In the end, you have to find out for yourself; this is why there are 1 oz samples. Only testing let's you know for sure.

  5. Sounds more like a USPS issue then Peak, once a product leaves their warehouse or any other vendor they have no control over how it is handled. I know that USPS as well other shipping companies are not very gentle with packages. As far as being out of stock, it happens, it just sucks that it you will not be able to have it for your day off.

    Agree 100%, have yet to be disappointed by Peak's and stuff does happen.

  6. Wet spots are the result of several things; the fact that glass and wax expand and contract in very different amounts and that there are temperature fluctuations. Heating the glass before pouting (a pin I think) is the best method for avoiding wet spots. In theory, heating the glass causes it to expand, you pour in the wax into the expanded jar, and then cool. AS the wax cools it will shrink but the glass is also shrinking, so not wet spots. Well, nice theory but it ultimately depends on how much your wax will shrink and the cooler the temps, the more it will shrink. Air conditioning can be a cause, drafts while cooling. Transporting candles during the winder or a outside display, will all cause more wet spots.

    A lot of us don't worry about them any more, most customers don't seem to care.

  7. RJDaines: What parasoy blend are you using, are you satisfied with the HT, also do you notice much soot? I decided to try Acusoy#30 and it smoked like a chimney. Thanks

    I use a blend of 75% 4625 and 25% 464, different percentages around those numbers would most likely work as well. I have also tried 415 and 444 and they work as well as 464. HT is great, not will all FOs but that is true of any wax. Smoking means that it is not wicked properly but you will see that in any wax, yes, soy will smoke. I don't know anything about Acusoy but a lot of people here use a type of parasoy and there must be a reason for that.

  8. In theory yes. Containers of the same diameter should take the same wick. However, the larger jar is a bigger heat sink so the early to mid part of the burn "might" be different from the smaller jar (smaller melt pool). Only way to know is to test and the worst that happens is that you need a move one size up. Odds are you'll be fine.

  9. I have found that double wicked containers that curve inward at the top are prone to wick drownings and being too hot. Solving for one leads to the other. HT is generally good with the hotter solution but melt pool depth can also be an issue (too deep). I've even tried manipulating the melt point of the wax but that doesn't help much.

    Just keep trying different wicks until you are happy with the burn.

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