rjdaines

And if you're using grams, which for accuracy, you should be, 1 ounce = 28.350 grams.

Example: 1.28 ounces = 36.287 grams.

I find that working in grams is so much easier than ounces.

People do it either way; more soy or more paraffin to get the wax blend they want. Not sure that cost is a big factor but that is just me.

Yep, that happens. A deep melt pool will aggravate that situation.

I have good luck with HTP wicks in parasoy. A HTP-73 might work well in that container. Keep in mind that FOs will cause you to wick up or down, in a 3 inch diameter status jar my range is HTP-73 to HTP-104.

My feeling is that CD5 is too large for for paraffin votive candles. I use LX-8 and even those can get a large flame when wicks are not trimmed. I'm experimenting with adding soy PB to 4794 to see if it tames the flame. A long tealight wick would probably work fine.

I've recycled unscented candles (4625), no problems. Even scented ones can be remelted and used again as the heating process drives off most (if not all) of the original FO.

Can't really say but I wouldn't be so quick to blame the supplier. I've seen similar results but in container candles with CD5 and CD6. Good new is that you've narrowed your wicks down to just 2 for votive candles.

One thing to keep in mind about mushrooms is something called "Capping". A good-sized mushroom will make the flame appear smaller than if there was no mushroom present. This gives a false impression as to how large the flame is or could be. Always trim the wick before relighting (I'm sure we all do) and eliminate the mushroom.

I've produced mushrooms way bigger than that, looks fine to me.

Larger wicks are not always the answer when trying to get a FMP. Larger wicks consume more wax (ROC). Test using the advice above, many jars and many wicks. Also, remember that the jar will heat more or less based on it's shape and if it traps heat (narrow neck) and that the second half of the burn is hotter than the first. Catching up may not happen 'til then,

More of a personal preference. In most cases, color doesn't affect the burn of a candle but in some cases it does. One most always test. Dye affects some soy wax in that it can cause frosting. Coloring candles also adds the the cost of the candle, some don't use color for that reason.

I don't use color except when requested.

I use the CS Lavender in my parasoy and it works quite well at 7%.

I think by the time you used additives your candles will resemble 4625. Straight paraffin may be less opaque but it doesn't make good pillars as is but if you have the time to experiment with vybar and stearic, you may achieve what you want.

Pillars can be easily made with 4625, no need to add anything but color and FO if wanted.

If you want mottled candles, there is IGI 1274 which works well.

I recycle them if I can.

Yep, that's what I do.

Yes, it's a self trimming wick and they curl over. Problem is that one side of the jar gets hotter than the other. Most fix this by twisting the wick so that the lean rotates around the jar and you get a more even melt. In most cases it's not a problem as the last half of the burn the whole jar heats up and the hanging wax melts. If you were referring to something other than the curl, I didn't notice anything.

I use 415 and 4625 which works well, so I don't know why you didn't want to use 415.

HTP 126 is not smaller than the 1312, based on the wick's burn properties, however, that does not necessarily mean that it won't be the perfect wick for your application. As I have said many times, buy sample packs of wicks and test them. Any advice given here is just a starting point, you still have to do the testing.

Different types of wax leave different amounts of residue behind but they all leave some. In my experience, paraffin leaves the least and vegetable waxes more, though that is not always true. The hotter the burn the less residue. If the residue is black, then that is soot.

Hi Sally... there is another wick between 105 and 1212...HTP 126.

HTP 126 is a bigger wick than 1212 or 1312, the names don't always tell you where they are in the series.

CD wicks are similar to HTP so trying those might help. Container diameter is more useful in determining wick size that how much wax it holds but I'll guess that you will need a CD wick in the mid-teens.

I use a 50/50 mix and I'm happy with the results. It I had to try another ratio, I use 70% 4625 and 30% 415, or something similar.

My customers don't care what kind of wax it is and long as it has a good throw, burns well and doesn't soot.

Same here. Some ask if it's soy (I use a parasoy) but most buy on smell.

I use Peak and Candle Science, most of their FOs work for me though not all but that is part of the process.

I used to double wick 464 with CD-5s, that might give you a starting point.