rjdaines

The IGI website states for 4630: "Economical single pour blend in containers up to 16 oz"

I'm not sure what the issue is with volumes greater than 16 oz. It is a soft wax and easily forms melt pools and in a few cases with taller containers, non-zinc wicks can start to lean. Not sure if this is the issue or not. I've also had trouble single wicking containers that are 4 inches and wider, double wicks are fine.

If anyone has any insight into the 16 oz limit, I'd love to hear it.

4625 FO load is listed as 6%, I make my melts and candles at between 7% and 8%. For me it's a happy place in terms of the CT, HT, and the wick. Adding more gives me bigger mushrooms and would force me to find a larger or hotter wick. So, my blend can easily support that load. Melts, of course, don't need a wick so going higher may be possible but the soy wax that I use supports 6% to 9% so I'd have to make even more changes to go higher.

LOL, typo should have read 4625 not 4624.

I might as well join in too, I use 4624 and soy container wax 50/50. Great HT and spent wax comes out of the bowls with just a little coercion. The cubes release from the clam-shell very easily.

I sell a 4 pack of scented soy tealights for 2.50. Never had one complaint that it's too much...8 packs I sell for 5.00 all day long..then I have a baker's dozen of unscented for 5.00...

Good to know, thanks

Wait until you make a ton of them & forget to put the wicks in the liquid wax! Or maybe you won't make that big mistake, LOL!

Not planning on making a ton just yet, I don't see how I can make money on these. Costs me 19 cents each and can't see selling them for more that 25 cents. I was in World Market yesterday and they had tealights for sale at about 13 cents each. I may make a 4-pack for $1 just so people can take my info with them, not that my website generates many orders.

I use container wax for my tea lights and usually get 6+ hrs. burn time. It is typical to get a full melt pool right away and I usually don't put it out after 4 hrs. and neither do my customers - it's just one straight burn. If the TL-15 is working for you, go with it. I use LX8's depending on the FO is use.

Thanks for the reply, I blew the candle out 'cause it was late and dog walking time. Didn't want to leave it burning unattended. I lit is this morning and it didn't have the umpf to melt the surrounding wax to keep going for more than an hour. Total burn time with wax left was about five hours so six is possible. I have some LX-8 wicks so I may give those a try.

That looks pretty bad and sends a message that the manufacturer doesn't care much for their product. Then again, maybe this is the industry standard for raw materials.

I can't answer the question but have you considered blending a pillar wax into the 4786. I use 4625 to harden.

I've never been a big user of tealight candles but, as I like trying new things, decided to make some tealights. Wax used is a blend of 80% 4625 and 20% PB soy, wick is a TL-15 (smallest I could find at CS) and the polycarbonate plastic containers (also from CS).

When I tested them, the flame seemed a reasonable height but almost the entire container of wax melted in a short period of time. The first burn was 4 hours and there is still wax for another burn.

Questions: Is having such a full melt pool typical? Is there a better wax combination to use? Should I use a container wax rather than a pillar wax? Are they better wicks to try?

Thanks

one ounce is 28.35 grams

16 x 28.35 = 453.6

I generally call it 454 grams

so 30/454 = $0.066

about 7 cents per gram

YC has a mottling paraffin line of candles and a parasoy line. They undoubtedly use a proprietary blend. Since I am not a fan of how their candles burn, I would choose not to try and duplicate their wax.

4794 is a votive wax and is kind of a hybrid between pillar and container wax. It shrinks so would not be a good choice for a container due to it pulling away from the glass and making wet spots.

There should be no difference between weighing solid wax or liquid wax. Things to check, the accuracy of your scale and making sure your tare or zero the scale before use. Drafts can also affect the readings if air is blowing on the scale, being level also helps accuracy.

Adding any oil will reduces the total amount of FO that can bee added. I tried CO and it didn't help at all, in some cases it made the candle texture worse when using soy.

HTP 126 should burn hotter, it's a larger wick than 1212.

Same here.

Yep, used Yaley's from the craftstore when I 1st started making candles then graduated to the good stuff from candle suppliers. It's ok but you have to add a lot of additives to do anything other than make a so-so candle. Last time I checked the price at the craftstore it was off the charts.

I've made plenty of testers that had poor flames but great HT. I won't sell it like that because I want a nice flame as well as the HT but, honestly, all you need for HT is a melt pool. That's why melts and tarts work. The flame is your heat source to melt the wax, the flames in not the HT distribution center; it's the heat. In fact, the flame works against you in that any FO consumed by the flame is not going to add to the HT. It is burned. So, in some cases, an attractive flame is not needed.

I don't think that there is anything wrong with 4794, I use it as a base for votives and can see how some people might use it as a melt wax.

IMO, the ECO's flames are large and meltpool is too deep...I like the flame of the CD14 and meltpool is more than satisfactory...hth.

I agree with Imc about the CD wicks looking better.

I use 50% soy for 3 reasons; it does give a nice creamy look, it's cheaper than paraffin (at the moment), and people have a positive reaction when you tell them there is soy in the melt. If I were not to use soy, then a mix of 4625 and 4630 would be my next choice.

If those are 4 inch diameters, you could try 2 CD5 wicks.

My ideas run along the same line with a few differences. I too believe that the wax, for the most part, is just a medium in which the FO is suspended though based on the fact that soy doesn't throw some FOs, this may not be entirely true OR the are additives that bind the FO. Vybar is known to do this. Where I differ is that I believe that the HT comes from the melt pool and not any FO that enters the wick and get burned. Combustion is typically not good for maintaining the integrity of complex molecules. Some of my best HTs come from weakly burning wicks that have wide melt pools.

So back to curing. It seems we are breaking it down into two parts, its effect on HT and the need for the wax to completely solidify. Those two things may not be related. HT comes from the melted wax (CT is FO the escapes at room temp), so the structure is gone which means it wasn't important to begin with. The one thing that may change over time is the amount of the original carrier that the FO was dissolved in. I have no information about the carrier's evaporation rate or its longevity in a candle.

My parasoy doesn't require curing (3022) as a rule but when dealing with light fragrances or complex (many notes) curing is essential. If I pour Cherry Bomb or Mulberry at a load of 6 or 7%; they're loud both on ct and ht IMHO but some florals or seasonal fragrances seem to improve on the ct if not the ht after a week of curing. Its an old trick when some chandlers add a top layer of fo to ehance the dynamics of their product. You burn it off and all of sudden the candle doesn't throw anymore. I don't believe that fragrance oil binds to wax of any kind but rather it is suspended in the wax. The wick will absorb both oils once liquified and combustion does the rest of the job in dispersing the fragrance but only if they are of similar weight and the fragrance oil is not too heavy to be suspended in the wax. That is why more is not always better with fo load. Too much fragrance oil just becomes too heavy to remain suspended in the wax and collects in the bottom. Whew!

Steve

I do 5 to 10 days just because I'm too busy to test right away.

I make a parasoy blend and see no difference in HT based on curing. Cold throw is there immediately. If anything, the curing effect my be related to candle-nose.

Started with soy, went to paraffin, and then to my parasoy blend. Now I am working with a 3-wax blend. Don't plant to return to straight soy.