HorseScentS

I had to try this wax for myself after all I've "heard" about it on here..and it is AWESOME! I think I like it better then my KY133/4627 blend or my 4786/4630!! I made Very Sexy for him and it lasted 3 DAYS in my warmer! Truly impressive =)

Oh, wow! Thanks for the review, I can't wait to try it!

I've double wicked a 16oz tin with 51's but have yet to burn it. I did fill a 26oz jar once for a friend and double wicked with 51's and he said it burned great. Other then that I only use 8 & 16oz jelly/mason jars. OH...I did double with a wide mouth mason jar once...and let's just say LOL:laugh2:It was a FIREBALL!

Oh my gosh! I bet it was a fireball! Scary! That's interesting about your double wicked 26 oz jar burning great with the two 51z. I'm afraid if they don't trim those two zincs there will be two massive flames down in that jar, that's what scares me about double wicking with zincs...but I know people do it all the time.

If you use too much FO it can distort the fragrance.

The Candle Maker's Store has them: http://thecandlemakersstore.com/candle-making/candle-making-jars-molds/jar-caps.html

Where do you buy.....I purchase in cases of 244 and often buy 2 or 3 cases at a clip. The supplier I get them from currently charges $.46 each. Can anyone suggest another supplier. These fit both the 16oz mason and 8oz jelly jars.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25768[/ATTACH]

Thank you!

Those are pretty, which supplier are they from?

I use the 4627 as well, but I heat to 195-200, add dye then oil and try my best to pour at 180. I use Zinc wicks though, but always have an amazing HT & CT..maybe pour a bit hotter?

Thanks for sharing your temps, that's interesting. The IGI instructions are add FO between 185 and 195, and pour between 185 and 175 into heated jars.

Have you had any luck double wicking it in anything, like the 16 oz Apothecary jar, for example? I know it's easy to double wick in a short straight-sides container like an 8 oz tin, but trying to double wick a taller jar seems to cause problems with drowning wicks...at least with HTP's.

2 Eco2s were doing well a little high but maybe that's what happens at the end of the jar.

New day, more wax to burn!

Next time you think they're a little high let us see a pic, maybe they're okay.

Yep, that was the 1st 4 hour burn for the 1.5 Ecos. I'll start it again in the morning. Jar didn't get too hot either.I wonder how they'll do in a full jar though?

Ok, I'll make another status this week as you said. I've never achieved a full MP until almost the end of these jars.

You can't fill that cylinder jar very full because the fitment for the lid takes up so much space, so your wax will be at least 3/4" or more below the rim and you may, or may not, have to wick up a little bit for a fuller jar.

I have tried other wicks, but keep coming back to the zinc. Nothing else seems to stay stable in the soy wax for me. So are the wicks turning to ash on the tips because of too much FO? And what are the seepage issues you are referring to? Thank you so much for your reply.

Have you asked your supplier about wicking your wax? Most suppliers have done a lot of testing and should be able to guide you on all aspects of candle making, because it's to their advantage for you to be successful at it and keep coming back for more supplies.

The wax just looks so mangled or gucky! Yes the cylindar jar was the same 4 hour burn just different angles. Yes I think the Eco2 is not big enough but the soot was so bad from the 4, 6 & 8s that I wanted to try.

I think the status jar is only going to be used for Palm Waxes. I'm like one of my dogs with a bone, won't let go!

So, that was the 1st four-hour burn session for the cylinder jar? If that's the case, you almost got a FMP on the first burn, and that's fine considering the wax level is down in the jar, so those two wicks are working good so far. I think your cylinder jar it going good so far.

If you make another DT Status jar, and only fill it up to 3/4" below the rim, and then use the HTP 104 it should work for you. See, you can't really tell when you fill the jars up full like that because the flame had to struggle in a narrow tunnel for too long, instead of making a FMP on the 3rd burn session like it would have if you hadn't filled them so full. And, you might have better luck with the thicker-walled Status/Metro/Prestige jars from the candle suppliers because they'll hold more heat in.

Was that the 2nd four-hour burn session on the cylinder jar? I think that jar looks good so far.

I think the DT Status jar looks under-wicked, do you? Why do you say they're ugly?

Not so hot! I'm down to 2 Eco1.5s in the cylindar. The 2s did well but were making jar slightly hot & flames very high. Could be the FO, if 1.5s don't work I'll go back to the 2s.

Status jars are not doing well either, lots of soot from all ecos, have a 2 in one of the jars, no soot so far. I'll post pics later.

How's yours?

It's okay for the jar to be slightly hot. Your hands might be cool because you keep your thermostat so low. If you put your hands under comfortably hot water before touching the candle it won't seem hot, just warm. How high were the flames?

I haven't poured my cylinder jar yet, but I might get to it today. I've never seen anyone double wick the low containers that are over 3" in diameter, they always triple wick them. I'm sure double wicking works in the cylinder jar for other waxes, but I'm not sure it can be done with 4627.

Oh, gosh, I'm so sorry you're getting soot from the Eco's in your DT Status jars. They were doing so well for awhile there.

Any luck with your 20 oz Emma jar?

How goes the battle, CW?

It must be candle nose. I can't imagine 4627 being weak!!! I have 4 candles burning now, people tell me they can smell them outside. I can't smell anything!

I hate candle nose so much!

Thanks! It's so hard to imagine that FO's could work better with less added, but i'll try it, it's so frustrating when you want an oil to work out that doesn't want to. I do preheat my oils and use a combo of htp 104 and 105 wicks, what's kind of odd is the 104's seem to burn faster and reach a full MP before the 105's, and i would assume the opposite would be true. You never know what's going to happen in testing, i had 2 candles made at the exact same time with the exact same htp 105 wicks and one burned perfect and the other was so much slower to burn. When i started using 4627 the IGI instructions were not loading on their website, i cobbled together my temps from what i read here on the board, going to check Igi's site again. Thanks for your imput, Horsescents, always appeciated and great to hear about the candle nose, always forget that!

Yes, it is really weird regarding FO's that less is more. I could not wrap my brain around that at all when I first started, so I loaded up my candles with 12%, then 10, then 9, then 8, then 6. LOL I had to learn the hard way. I would still use 9% in 6006 parasoy though, because I can't smell anything in that wax unless I load it up.

Hi All,

I'm been using 4627 and for the most part love it! One of the most important things for me is a super strong hot and cold throw, which is another reason why i chose 4627. I've been adding 8% FO and for some scents it's working out (like honeysuckle and florals) but others seem weak, like woodsmoke, cedars, patchouli types. I can't figure out if this is just the nature of these kinds of scents or i'm doing something wrong? I heat wax to 205, add fo at 180 and stir for 2 minutes then pour at 150. Should i add more oil, i was under the impression i wouldn't need to with this wax. My oils are from great suppliers. Many thanks!!!

I think it's important to follow the manufacturer's directions regarding temperatures, so your temps are different than what's recommended by IGI and that could be causing a problem.

Have you tried warming your FO in a pyrex measuring cup before you add it to the wax?

What wicks are you using? The type of wick can make a big difference in HT.

Many FO's throw better in 4627 with less FO than 8%, so try cutting back to 6%.

I would let it cure for at least 48 hours or even longer than that to let the wax harden up and for the HT to really develop.

If you're doing everything right in terms of temperature, wick, FO load, stirring, and cure time, any FO that doesn't have a good throw in 4627 is a dud, even if it's from a great supplier.

But, it can take you a week to recover from candle nose after you pour, or after you do a lot of test burning, so you won't be able to smell even strong candles if you have candle nose.

I was wondering (once I am established) if etsy is a good site. I mean when I look into it the site there are carrying fees. Listing fees. Shipping costs. With all these extra fees, do you make anything? It seems like a scam to me, but I want some opinions. I mean ebay doesn't have fees other than shipping, but all sites have a shipping cost. I know you will be less successful on Ebay because most people want to buy supplies, not the item. Any opinions?

If you enter the word "Etsy" into the Search box on your upper-right corner of your screen, you'll find a lot of info about Etsy. First, try going to "Advanced Search" and then check the box for "thread titles only" so you can find threads about Etsy and not have to wade through all the non-Etsy-thread comments that come up.

They have great HT! I only saw one cylindar at HL in Akron. Here's the measurements: 3" tall x 3 5/8" wide. I do have one from Fairway so maybe this is it. They are very close but Fairways is taller. Fairway calls this a 2 wicker.

At my HL they have two or three sizes. Mine is 3" tall too, but yours looked taller in the pic because of the camera angle. I can't wait to see your progress with those Ecos!

Wow! You're doing great with those Ecos! I'm impressed! I hope they continue working well. How is the HT? or do you have candle nose? I can't smell my candles at all right now.

That's the taller HL Libbey Cylinder jar, right? How many ounces is that? I only bought the short one, which I'm planning to triple wick, so I need to go buy a tall one like yours.

I love the one on top which looks like grass growing and concrete, like an urban/tribal look. It's very intriguing so that's my favorite.

I'm still working on burning my DT Status jar and haven't had any problems. I finished burning my 10 oz Emma jar all the way down with no problems, except that it always got a mushroom every time I re-lit it after extinguishing and letting it cool down. I looked at a high-end Root candle that one of my family members has been burning, and it's halfway burned down and has a thick coating of wax on the glass all the way down, and the mushroom is 1/2" wide by over 1/8" thick. LOL The wick has never been trimmed, I don't think. And there's now some soot on one side of the jar even though it's not in a drafty location. Compared to that, my candles are doing great.

If I was selling candles I think I wouldn't want to trust the DT Status jar because it's not sold by a candle supplier so it's a liability. Instead, I'll order the Prestige jar from Peak or some other 12 oz Status jar from a candle supply with the same 3" diameter and retest those with the HTP 104.

Fabulous! I love them!

Oh my gosh, they're gorgeous! Before I blew up the pics they looked like real flowers so I was thinking, "Where's the soap?"

I think it's a really neat concept, and if I wasn't making candles myself, I'd probably order one ;-) I think their prices(when they do their promotions) are reasonable too. But What I really love, are the containers their candles are in, I'm going to have to find me some of those!

The jars are probably Libbey Status jars, which many candle suppliers carry. Peak's version are called Prestige jars.

Candle Science was one of the websites I've been looking into, so I will definitely be ordering some scents from them. I'm not going to stress right now about the frosting, I'm going to go uncolored and try to get my scents perfect. Thank you!!

A lot of the soy chandlers add USA to the wax (universal soy additive) and they also temper the wax. You can search the forum for USA and tempering and find a lot of info.