Wessex

I am loking at both wicks right now and they look nothing alike. The CD'd have the upside down chevron pattern with the darker thread, and the LX's have no pattern that I can see (with my naked eye). The LX's appear plain white, of course they have a somewhet thick wax coat. The CD's have a very thin transparent wax coating.

HTH

Cheers,

Steve

No, LOL, it was a real thank you, LOL! Never ordered from Southern Gardens, so if I try that, I will end up ordering other stuff, can't pay shipping for just one item . Also never ordered FO's from C&S, so the same applies there. So many scents, so little time.

Already used over 100 pounds of GG palm testing scents, containers and wicks. But have lots of good usable data now! It helps that I am somewhat housebound at the moment (one too many IED hits, LOL), so can test all day long. Combine that with not sleeping a whole lot and boy howdy can I do some testing LOL. Of course can always make it out to CS to pick up larger orders .

But I do like the Witches Brew and Merlin's Forest.

Cheers,

Steve

You may also want to look at it as percentage. Lets use nice round numbers cause I don't feel like doing math, LOL. If you need 100 ozs of wax at a 5% FO load, you would add 5 ozs to 95 ozs wax to get 100 ozs total. Gives you 5% FO load. If you added 5 ozs to 100 ozs of wax, you would get 4.8%. Not a huge difference, but a difference.

Cheers,

Steve

Thanks for your suggestions. Guess it is off to try a couple new places. Which means I will have to order other stuff to maximize my shipping dollars :rolleyes2.

Cheers,

Steve

I determine how much wax I need for a pour and then determine the amount of FO needed for the amount of wax. Then I subtract the amount of FO from the wax and mix. Ok here it is in plain terms: If I need 16 ozs of wax for a container pour and want to use the standard 1 oz FO to 1 pound wax, then I use 15 ozs of wax and 1 oz of FO. Equals 16 ozs needed for the pour. There is a little FO that flashes out of the mix, but not enough to mess anything up.

HTH

Cheers,

Steve

Howdy All,

I love the Witches Brew from MW, but don't have much hope of it being there anytime soon. Noticed NG had a Witches Brew. Does anyone know if it is similiar? Or who might have a comparable one? Also looking for a dupe for MW Merlin's Forest.

Thanks for your time.

Cheers,

Steve

I use both the chips and the liquid. The only chip I have had the "speck" problem with was the salmon (CS). Lots of undisolved specks. I don't find the liquids messy at all, as long as you are careful. I have had one problem with the liquid. Went to put in one drop of magenta the other day. Do not know what happened, but the dye just gushed out of the dropper, like I had squeezed the bulb (which I had not)! So needless to say, that one batch of candles was VERY dark magenta! But I kinda like the color, just did not match the scent. Only a couple testers, so no big deal.

Cheers,

Steve

This is not packaging, but I thought it was cool. Came across it at the local office supply store. Would be cool to use somehow if you sell Palm Wax candles.

http://www.newleafproducts.net/t/category/rsum-paper/palm-farm-fiber/

Cheers,

Steve

I love the Merlin's Forest and Witches Brew, too. Unfortunately, MW is out and no telling when it will come in. I did the Merlin's Forest prebuy, but it never came in .

Oh and Candybee, wasn't the name Fall Harvest my suggestion a while ago? If so, I will be waiting at my mailbox for my commision check...:rolleyes2.

I have got to stop reading these posts, makes me want to run out and try the FO's that people mention, LOL. Have too many FO's in wax already!!!

Cheers,

Steve

How many pounds of wax are you using? 1/2 oz of liquid dye would color alot of wax! You have to remember that the crystalline make up of palm wax scatters light a bit, so colors tend to look a little lighter than with paraffin. I can use 1 to 2 drops of orange dye with a pound of GG palm and get a pretty good deep orange. Feather palm wax tends to be a little lighter with the same amount of dye. Also, I add a small amount of brown to the orange to darken it up a bit. But only a SMALL amount, as in dip the end of a toothpick in the dye and swirl it quickly in the wax. This is for smaller amounts of wax of course.

HTH

Cheers,

Steve

Have not put it in wax yet. OOB smells kinda like a perfumed Christmas Tree next to a cold fireplace! Don't know how else to describe it. Of course smelling it from the bottle it touched my nose, so now it is all I can smell :smiley2:. I think it will be good once it is in wax. It definately grows on you, especially if it is on your nose LOL.

I think it would be worth at least picking up a sample once it is back in stock.

Cheers,

Steve

They have lots of great scents. This is a list of some that I have tested extensively in GG and Feather palm. Should be similiar in Soy.

Vanilla Hazelnut - great classic bakery scent

Christmas Tree - great CT and HT

Cinnamon Buns - very strong CT

Hansel and Gretel's House - excellent HT in Feather and GG!!!

Pumpkin Souffle - my favorite bakery scent (next to H & G House)

Honeysuckle Jasmine - Great HT and CT (also mixed with Rose)

Cranberry Marmalade - strong

Dragon's Blood - a classic that throws great

BTW - have the Caramelized Praline, not in wax yet, but OOB may be a winner

This is just a partial list of some I have finished testing. There are other good ones that I am still testing.

HTH

Cheers,

Steve

I've always bought the "bricks" of beeswax straight from the beekeepers or bee co-ops and they have always had that great honey scent! Used the pastilles once many years ago, and they were easier to use, but lacked the great smell of fresh beeswax.

Cheers,

Steve

Yellow beeswax should smell honey-ish, not in any way offensive. Sometimes the darker beeswax will have a different smell depending on what type of flowers the bees were using as a food source. But regular yellow beeswax should be pleasant.

Cheers,

Steve

Hoping someone out there can offer some help. Using GG palm and mostly CSN wicks. Seems like on about 75% of the first burns of almost all FO's in many different containers I am getting the "Mickey Mouse Ear" looking mushrooms. On subsequent burns, after trimming, the mushrooms do not come back. I am not overwicking, the rest of the burn tests go beautifully. It even happens when a container is clearly underwicked.

Can it be that when I cut the wicks to length it is leaving some fraying on the corners of the wicks that collect carbon? I am at a loss to figure this one out.

Cheers,

Steve

Candybee,

According to Diane at CS, the GG should be here in a couple of days, it is clearing customs now. Like you I am also waiting for the GG to come in to order stuff. That way I can pick up everything at once.

Cheers,

Steve

Never had a problem with the wick stickems coming unglued. If you don't wash your jars, they won't stick, but I wash my jars. As far as the glue dots, only had a couple come unglued during a pour when I had too much tension on the wick. As long as I don't pull the wicks too tight, no problem.

Cheers,

Steve

I use the wick stickems (the white ones) in my larger containers and the glue dots in my smaller ones to get more burn time. Do not use glue sticks at all.

Cheers,

Steve

Did a little search and found this: "Do not permit

these chemicals to come into contact with

polycarbonate windows:

• acetone • cutting oils

• air conditioning refrigerant • gasoline

• ammonia • lacquer thinner

• anti-freeze • toluene

• benzene • turpentine

• brake fluid • xylene

• carbon tetrachloride"

http://www.tigercat.com/care%20of%20polycarbonate.pdf

Now I'm not saying that any of those chemicals are used to make FOs - BUT - it does makes me wonder.

But gasoline gives the wax such a nice look .

Yea, does make you wonder a bit.

Cheers,

Steve

I don't think there is anything wrong with the tealight cups, they look like the same you get elsewhere. They do fine on 95% of my FO's, it is just a few FO's that I am having problems with. I am waiting to hear back from CS, but was hoping someone here had an answer. Will just wait and see if someone knows what might be going on. But don't let this stop you from ordering some, they are nice polycarbonate cups.

Cheers,

Steve

No, haven't been burned yet. I did burn one, and the sides actually delaminated as it burned. Almost like when a plastic bottle is exposed to sunlight for many years. Very strange. But only with a few FO's, trying to figure out if there is a common ingrediant. Got them at CandleScience.

Steve

Hey All,

Just noticed that some of my plastic tealight cups poured with GG palm were cracking. These were poured a month ago or more, and have been sitting on a shelf. The cracks are around the base/wall joint and vertically down the sides. It is only on a few FO's, but all those FO's are cracking. Other FO's poured at the same time are fine.

Any idea what is happening? The FO's are creme brulee, scarlet moon (MW) and pumpkin souffle.

Thanks,

Steve

How awesome! Thanks for sharing that info, as I am new to Palm wax. Are zincs not recommended for palm wax?

Zincs do not do well in Palm from my experience. The cooled meltpools are discolored, HT is not that good, do not self trim, etc. I think they just burn hot in palm, but maybe someone else can go into more detail.

Cheers,

Steve

I bet they get a lot of site hits today, LOL. Oh, and it's good to know their candles are lead free

Cheers,

Steve

Just received my order from CS (1 day shipping!), and I have candlenose so bad I can barely smell the Gingerbread OOB, LOL! Some of the FO's I can't smell at all! Boy am I stuffed up . Need to give testing and pouring a break for about a week!

Cheers,

Steve