john3183

I know you said it did not gel, but when you said that, had you cut the loaf? I would go for overheating on the inside, but staying cool on the outside therefore the outside could not expand like the inside, and it cracked. Did you have the loaf in a cool area?

I like the cherry blossom from Southern Garden Scents. It sticks and doesn't have that fake smell some have.

Very pretty!

When making bombs, humidity is our worst enemy. Make sure that you are working dry, dry hands, dry bowl, and I never add anything but oils and fragrance to the mix. The chemical reaction is hard to stop once started. I posted these trouble shooting tips on another board, but they apply here too: Cracking when curing - To much moisture in ingredients and mix is reacting from inside causing expansion. Try keeping everything sealed and away from water sources. Crumbing - Before curing, not enough liquid Soft bombs after cure/warting - too much moisture in air, bombs are reacting I like to work when both the humidity inside and outside are under 40%. I have a dehumidifier running at all times in my workshop.

I use polysorbate in my bombs to allow the oils to disperse better in the water. I find it makes for a cleaner tub after. My recipe is very simple, citric acid, backing soda and an oil/butter mixture along with fragrance. I make sure that nothing with water or alcohol is added, as once the fizzing reaction starts, it is hard to stop. My bombs are hard without which hazel, so I never use it. Work when it is not humid, work dry, and use just enough oils that the mix stays together while pressed, but does not feel wet and you are there.

Beautiful as always!

You can use anything you want to mold bath bombs. For me, I do like the round molds, but for some it is easier to just use a half mold or muffin tins. I think the important thing is being able to apply pressure, it helps set the bomb. You also want to be able to get the bomb out, so look for a mold that has a bit of give or is very smooth so the mix does not stick.

If you want to do more art with your soap, add some water back in, go with a 35% or 33% water discount. This will allow for a longer trace time. Myself, I don't even look for trace. I get my oils and lye emulsified, and I will start working with it for swirls and such. With a well tested recipe and fo, working with the soap just emsulified or at a thin trace should not be a problem.

Epsom salts are magnesium sulfate, and not Sodium Chloride. With such different properties from salt, I would not think they would work well in a salt bar. I also don't like sea salt, as it draws in moisture, and I don't like weeping bars.

I use the Colorona Bordeaux from TKB from a very nice red. I also like the valentine red that is a liquid from there. Hot momma is also nice, but more on the orange tone of red, and I like a nice true red or blue red.