JacquiO

Everything looks really nice. I love the tarts! Is that cow candle an ice candle?

Can you post a pic? That sounds cute. I'd like to see how yours came out.

Sounds like your wicks are too small. For a diameter that big I would use an eco between 10-14 or a CD 12-16 I wasn't crazy about RRD's in my soy applications but again you need to wick up to a 50 or 55. Here's a helpful guide that give a lot of valuable info on different types of wicks and recommended sizes for different diameter candles. You still have to test but it's a good starting point. http://www.candlewic.com/candle-wicks/pop-spools.asp

I don't think I've done that but I've poured candles and forgot to add the FO all together. It also helps not to pour two candles that are similar in color at the same time.

Love the colors!

I don't think palm stearic really helps improve the throw just the hardness and aids with release from the mold. Vybar will help improve throw by improving FO absorption thereby allowing you to use more FO. Hot throw is determined the size of your melt pool. The wider the pool the greater the throw. That's why a single votive in a tight votive holder won't give you a great throw. You would need to burn multiple votive candles to scent a room. For my votive I blend container soy with pillar paraffin. I use heinz CD wicks. I use a little wider votive holder (it has a 2-1/2 inch diameter) to test burn my votives in which a single votive gives off a pretty decent throw. Also if your using paraffin it's best to let your candles cure for at least a week before testing for throw. I noticed a marked improvement in votives burned a couple weeks after being poured.

..or a mochachino bottom and whipped wax topping and wax chocolate curls. ...or eggnog candles with some sprinkled cinnamon. I would whip the wax too for the eggnog but I think the natural color of soy would make a nice eggnog candle.

I made my first bombs last week. I tried asheebean's recipe. They work really well but I had a hard time molding them in the meatballer I bought from WSP. I could stuff the two halves of the meatballer but I couldn't get them to stick together. The ones molded in my silicon molds came out best. The only variation I did was sub half the sea salt for epsom salt. I wonder if that affected them?

I've used Mccormick's green food color in HP after the cook and it comes out a bright green.

Did you add your color before or after the cook?

It won't let me register. I don't have an ISP email. I have one I guess but I've never used it and have no way to access it. Maybe someone can copy and paste the SOS list here... ...please:D

Can you please post the link to that list for me?

You need to send SOS an email. They respond pretty quick. I've only seen it there. I buy FO, EOs and some of my butters there. I've only used vodka for home perfuming.

Saveonscents is the only place I've seen it. http://www.saveonscents.com/product_info.php/cPath/12_117/products_id/3573 I don't know if it's the cheapest. If the perfume is for personal use and not for resale you can always use a cheap vodka or 151 proof grain alcohol from the liquor store. Otherwise have you tried a web search?

Hi, I'm looking to try my hand at CP soap making and want to get some FOs from saveonscents but don't want to waste money on FOs that morph or seize. If anyone here soaps with SOS can you please give me some suggestions on some of the ones that worked best so I can order some and start playing soon. TIA, Jacqui

I've never tried the woodwicks. I wonder how they do in soy. Let me know how they burn. I never cared too much for the candlewic soy. It cauliflowers something awful.

I use the LouAnn from Wally-Mart. You've got the right stuff. It doesn't matter if it's liquid or solid when you add it to the wax.

I love the advanced and I've never had issues with air pockets. I also found it pours ideally at 150 even though the mftr reccommends 120. I usually heat my jars with a heat gun before pouring but if it cools too quickly it will crack. Two things you can do is put it in a warmed oven.Turn the oven off and leave them to cool there. Or cover containers with an upside down box and let them cool in the box. Also note I add 1 tbsp 76 degree coconut oil per pound of the adv. I've never mixed the adv with the 135 but I have played with the 135 as well. I had problems getting the tops smooth on the first pour with the 135. I liked the look and burn of the adv better.

If they come out good you can swap 'em in our bath swap. http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86494 Even if they don't come out well you can bag 'em up as fizzy powder and still swap. We only need a few more spaces filled. Newbie B&B welcome to join in too! I've got my supplies this week so I'll be practicing my bombs this weekend. RWV, How are yours coming along? Haven't heard back from you since you posted this thread.

I also wanted to mention that we do not have any decent yarn stores in our area. My mom crochets big time and she has to order the majority of her yarns online. I have to see who she uses maybe I can hitch some roving onto one of her orders. I found this one site that had some pretty merino roving for $2.79 an ounce. Is that a decent price? Does anyone know of any other online sources I could use? http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/store/catalog/Wool-Roving-and-Wool-Felting-Supplies-orderby0-p-1-c-573.html

I have not seen anyone using the wool batting. Do you felt the batting first then use the colored roving or do you wrap one on top of the other before wetting?

I've been watching some youtube videos on how to make felted soaps and I thought this would be great way of salvaging some fugly soaps. My question is does anyone know a good supplier for the dyed wool needed to do this? In case you don't know what I'm talking about here's some nice pics from an artfire crafter: http://www.artfire.com/modules.php?name=Shop&op=listing&product_id=111733

I have a gas oven and use paper towels. To clean my metal molds I set the oven to 200, line a baking sheet with paper towels, place my mold upside down on the towels and then stick 'em in for 5-10 minutes. I use rubber dishwashing gloves to handle the hot molds and wipe away any remaining wax that hasn't dripped onto the paper towels.

The soaps are beautiful! He certainly is very inspired by fruit. I've seen so many beautifully crafted MP soaps but for some reason I never get excited over them. I really prefer using natural soaps. Even when I made MP soaps I just never liked showering with them all that much. Now that I do HP soaps I can't wait to try it out. If I was to buy MP soap it would be for aesthetic purposes only and display it in my bathroom and then probably chuck it when it got too dusty. LOL sry MP soapers, no offence intended.

My main FO supplier is saveonscents which is located in Brooklyn. Here's the link: http://saveonscents.com/ They have A LOT of fragrances (including many designer duplicates) the majority of which are skin safe. The have manufacturer and cosmetic grade. You can use either in perfume and body product applications but you can only use the manufacturer's grade in candles. PM me if you have any questions about this company or their oils and the different concentrates. I've been using their oils since 2003. Also wanted to mention peaks has Jamaica Me Crazy (so does SOS) that's another fun and fruity body oil scent.