Judy, USMC

To me it smells like peppermint bark which is white chocolate with crushed up red & white peppermint sticks. Yes the top note is the peppermint but - to me - the chocolate undertone is definitely white chocolate and not milk chocolate. IMO Peppermint Patty is the peppermint/milk chocolate combo.

Just like the taste difference between milk chocolate and white chocolate, I'm picking up the white chocolate aroma and not a fudge note like some generic chocolate FOs. HTH

I don't know if it's on clearance on the website ... but it was at only one of the 2 stores in this area. Probably would have to check a local store.

The local Michaels is having a huge clearance. Went for just one thing and started browsing the clearance section. Scored 2 lamps ~ a 13W rechargable task lamp for $20 ($35 cheapest I've found) and a table top 13W Jupiter Magnifier Lamp for $40. ($90 @ JoAnn's) If you have one on your wish list it may be worth a call to see if they're on clearance in your area. I'm using mine to help my crocheting with the Starbella.

CMS - Candle Makers Store?

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This is a reality check for me. He has no concept of a forum where memberS (plural) help another member. If he only wants 1 answer from 1 person so I think he is better served with a mentor (tutor.) In another thread HorsescentS even provided links to 3 separate reputable suppliers that should/would have the inside information and could offer instructions. But that advice has been ignored. If he's looking for 1 person rather than a variety of opinions from experienced chandlers he can scratch me off the list. I'm done.

But you would still need to test to see how intense they are ... and how long the aroma lasts. And, yet again, different FO's throw at different intensities so you could go with 1oz pp with some but would have to go up or down depending on your test results.

It's always test EVERYTHING! What if you make it and there is no scent throw? What if you use a tealight container that is poly and catches fire because you over wicked and the container itself goes ablazing? (which has happened) May I recommend that you investigate making Melt & Pour soap. Less testing needed and a lot easier to comprehend. Or just become a direct marketing rep for a couple of companies. Amway, Avon, heck even Scentsy! That way you won't have to worry about liability or research. Just a thought ...

Once you read the Stimpson link try to wick down to a 44-24-18 for the 6oz hex jar.

I've been pouring the same way for over 15 years. I've used soy (CB-135) with no noticable wet spots. I also use paraffin (4786) which is a 2-pour wax; it naturally "shrinks" when it solidifys. With this paraffin if I forget to pre-heat the jars I'll get wet spots. I can pour in a facility that is 75 degrees and have good glass adhesion. But if the store is only 70 degrees wet spots will develope. I can only assume that it is the wax separating from the glass. So I agree with rjdaines. It's an interesting theory - and sounds plausible - but in my experience (especially with the paraffin) it's not the reason wet spots appear. Yes it is trapped air but I don't believe it's coming from air in the wax; I think it's trapped because the wax surrounding the air is more adherent. Sounds like something MythBusters should investigate. @ Chandlerwicks - may I ask where that bit of info came from?

Candlemaking is not like baking a cake; there is no standard formula that applies to ALL FOs. Testing involves time and money. The links and advice you've gotten so far have been spot on. And it's going to take TIME and ATTENTION. By building a site and starting to sell before you even know what is involved in testing is inane. Selling and including feedback replies smacks of selling too early and using your customers as testers and that's a suckie business attitude, IMO.

Oh and don't forget that you need to have all your things done legally. Check out CFR 16 part 500. And be sure to check with your county about business licenses. They should also be able to driect you to the county and state tax departments. And be sure to contact your homeowners insurance. If you are renting you need to contact your landlord to notify that you are manufacturing out of your location. It's more complicated than just making a candle.

OH MY! Great system ... good looking tapers!

I could have sworn that there were crochet instructions for this scarf too. For the life of me I can't find it and all that's on the backside of the label are knitting instructions. I crochet - so please let me know if you crochet these too.

Personally, I never even tried to make melts out of the 4627. IMO it is entirely too soft to make melts. And if you try to "harden it up" with additives or another wax you change the properties and may adversely affect the throw. Great for container candles, though.

@ HorsescentS. This is a new FO at Candle Science. I think the Peppermint Bark that candledoll poured must have been from a different supplier.

I did a search "candle science" and this is a thread from May that will probably help. I make melts and candles. This seems like a solid list of FOs. But, like others have said, you can't really go wrong so be sure to pick out one that sound interesting to you even if its not on the list. http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?104591-If-you-had-to-pick-one-Candle-Science-FO-for-testing&highlight=candle+science

A HUGE Thank You, CarolK! I appreciate you going out of your way and taking the time to do this research. I'm sure it will be a help to a lot of us.

Carol k - I found E&S Bulk Foods on 5 north of 20. That's the one I was at. My notes say the Pomace was $13.98/gal and expired 2/2014. It looks like the dented can stores were either in Goshen or South Bend. Goshen is do-able, thanks for that tip!

Are there other businesses in that high-end area that will take consignments? You can cold call on them with your sales stats, show them that you have a history of sales in the area, and see if they would be interested. A few businesses will be interested in a proven seller over a consignor with no history of sales in their area. HTH

Guess I wasn't too clear in my first post. I do have my personal grocery list started - but it's so much more fun to walk the aisles and just grab what looks good to eat! Got the cooler for the cheese and will nibble on chips during the ride! I've been wanting to get into B&B for years now and, through a generous gift, have the materials to make CP/HP soap. So I wanted to get recommendations on what to buy to make or add to products. Love the sugar idea - my first thought was sugar scrubs. Oatmeal got my interest too. Wonder which type (if any) would be good to add to soap for exfoliation? Welcome any ideas. TIA

I'll be going back to North Carolina through Amish country. Shipshewana has a bulk food store with absolutely tons of various items. Some of the things I saw I know what they would be used for: Epsom salts for bath salts Baking soda & Cornstarch for carpet deodorizers Pomace olive oil for soaping So if you had the opportunity to buy in bulk what would you get and what type of product would you use it for? (ETA: I'd give you a link to the store - but it's Amish and I couldn't find one!)

There is nothing that says you can't add as much information to your label as you want. There is a Federal reguation that requires the minimum you must have: 16 Code of Federal Regulations (Fair Packaging and Labeling Act) covers the labeling requirements. This is an excerpt: Sec. 500.1 Scope of the regulations of this part. The regulations in this part establish requirements for labeling of consumer commodities as hereinafter defined with respect to identity of the commodity; the name and place of business of the manufacturer, ... ; the net quantity of contents; ... . The place of business: Sec. 500.5 Name and place of business of manufacturer, packer or distributor. © The statement of the place of business shall include the street address, city, State, and Zip Code; however, the street address may be omitted if it is shown in a current city directory or telephone directory. (It doesn't allow for a web addy in lieu of the address.) The net quantity: Sec. 500.7 Net quantity of contents, method of expression. ... The net quantity of contents statement shall be in terms of fluid measure if the commodity is liquid, or in terms of weight or mass if the commodity is solid, semi-solid, or viscous, or a mixture of solid and liquid. (It does not allow for "hours of burn" in lieu of the net weight.) This is the link to the regulations: http://www.ftc.gov/os/statutes/fpla/part500.htm I've seen so many candlemakers with inadequate labeling ... but that's probably because they aren't aware of this regulation. It took a long time for me to find this. HTH

If you have dealt with Candle Science I would stick with them since they are closer than Peak. It appears that you already have the PB and wicking figured out. The receptionist will know what is trending as far as aromas goes so all you would have to test is the FO/wax/wick combo. If the FO doesn't work for votives it will usually work in a melt. I can tell you their Mistletoe is great for the fall & winter in votives and melts. Here's a recent link that may help with FO selection: http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?104591-If-you-had-to-pick-one-Candle-Science-FO-for-testing&highlight=best+candle+science You would be suprised at the impact $cent$y melters have had on the market. I'm sure packages of melts would sell and think that the votive holder with a variety of votives is the best alternative to making a container candle. In fact the variety may sell better than trying to sell a large jar of a single aroma. You could even make up packs of just the holiday aromas, too. Sending you and the family you are helping my best wishes.