R.S.

Has anyone hired a chemist to design their own fragrances? If so, how did you find someone to help you? Where would one look? I have some ideas for fragrances, and not getting what I want out from current suppliers (even by mixing fragrances together). Probably an expensive route????

I'm struggling, I'm using 10oz tumblers that are 3 in wide. I've used CSN14 and LX 21 so far, and not even close to a full burn. Anyone have suggestions. I just hate the thought of double wicking.

SheilaW, how wide are your 9 oz hex jars? I'm using 10 oz tumblers that are three inches wide and tried an Lx-21 and got no where near a full melt pool. The CSN 14's aren't much better.

Slight change of topic here.... Has anyone tried to do a 50/50 mix of the Glass Glow palm and the Candlewic container palm? Just curious what that would do. I don't have any CW palm, or I'd try it. I once tried CW container palm with a pillar palm (sort of by accident). I don't recommend it, lol. It looked like soy, no patterns at all and no glass adhesion.

I would not have an open flame around when making your candle. However, once in the wax, it's fine, assuming you don't overload the fragrance.

I've done it. I settled on 7.5% soy, any more than that and you start losing the palm effects, in my opinion. The soy to me, helps soften the palm a bit, which is a very hard wax. One problem, though, is that I would find that soy leaked out a bit upon cooling. sometimes.... not all the time. It's worth an experiment or two, I think.

OK, I'm new and have no idea what CP means, but I've used it in soy and it throws very well, hot and cold. This is coming from someone who has had trouble getting anything to throw.

Thanks, I look forward to more responses. I would heat glassware as well. Not sure about add FO and color once in the jars, that seems messy. I prefer adding to pot before pouring. And I was heating to wax to at least 200. Where in the problem lies I think. I suspect I wasn't being consistent in the heating with the double boiler method and by cheap little candy thermometer. I preferred adding a little soy to the wax (sort of settled on 7.5%) and it had little impact on crystallization, in my opinion. And I liked softening the wax a bit.. think Palm is too hard by itself. Thanks for the quick response!:smiley2:

Background: When I first started making candles in the fall, I did it because I used to purchase Palm candles (jennioriginals line) and was really disappointed that I couldn't find something similar when she stopped production. I used the double boiler method as I was learning. I couldn't get a consistent looking candle to save myself. So I've moved to pure Soy, but now thinking about trying this Candle Glow line. So my questions to those making container palm candles: 1. Are you using a double boiler method to heat your wax? Are you getting consistent results? 2. To help the slow cool process, I would heat up my fragrance oil on a candle warmer before adding. That way the wax didn't have a large 5 degree temp drop before pouring. Anyone else doing this? Was I weakening my throw by doing this? 3. Does the candle glow wax require relief holes and a repour? 4. Anyone adding any soy to the glow wax? If so what percentage? 5. I get beads of wax coming out the palm when it cools (and it looks like the soy).... are the two waxes not mixing well? 6. If you are doing relief holes and repouring, how are you making the tops look nice? ie: no repour line and some crystalization intact? Thanks in advance!

Beautiful! Did you have to poke relief holes and repour? It doesn't look like it.

Peaks Chocolate Fudge Brownie or something like that is very good as well. I think it has good throw in soy.

Actually, I'll take your question as a serious one. What is the proper way to rid yourself of fragrance oils? Or at least a way that's environmentally friendly? I'm ashamed to admit I just tossed it in trash without thinking about the implications. :embarasse

OK, I got a sample of it in my last order, and I tossed it. Didn't care for it at all.

thanks. I actually did search, but didn't go back far enough to find threads specifically about them. Good information.

Anyone have experience ordering from Wellington Fragrance? Customer Service? Quality of Oils? In particular, I'm looking for a strong lemon scent. Anyone tried the Lemon Verbena or Lemongrass or straight up Lemon?

I tried 5% to 15% soy and found I always needed to poke relief holes. I'm surprised that you didn't need to. Was I doing something wrong?

Last night I heated to 150, poured in FO at 140 and poured at 135. I'm using Fudge Brownie from Peaks (which smells soooo good I could have drank it!). After the candle had set, it didn't seem to have much cold throw at all. But this morning, my kitchen smelled like brownies! Hope the hot throw matches the cold throw. Hot throw has been a real problem for me with all the waxes I've tried. Now for fun, I've added 10% palm container wax into the mix. I did this to see if it would stop frosting and wet spots. I started with container palm and always found it adhered to glass really well, so hoping this may be a solution. Tried with some other waxes and for fun, put a candle in the freezer for 15 minutes and no wet spots developed. Will heating to 170 help with hot throw.. more than heating to 150???

I just tried this for the first time last night. Care to share what temp you add the FO and what temp you pour? and what wick you're using?

Since we started this... I was looking on the Golden Brands website and they mention both Palm Flakes and Vegetable Flakes. Anyone know if they for candles? And what's the difference? And experience with them? And who sells it?

Astorlite Q is no longer made. Taylored Concepts in Dallas has a container Palm. My guess is that it's the IGI Container Palm. I don't care for it. I've only tried a Sample of S&P, and liked it, but haven't worked with it enough. Candewic's is great. I must admit though, I stopped using Palm because I just found it hard to get consistent results and crystalization using my simple double boiler method. I'd either get lots of crystallization or not enough. Also the previously mentioned wicking problems drove me insane. I'd like to pick this back up sometime, but will stick with soy for now.

I've used this wax and it adheres very very well.

I would be glad to try and help you, since I have a degree in math, but I don't know what this is. Is this 10 different samples of weights from ten candles?

I need some help from some experts please. I'm new to this, and just recently found two local Dallas suppliers, that happen to be down the street from one another. The first being TayloredConcepts and the second being AAA Candle Supply. Last week, I decided I would get 10 pound bags of container palm from both to 1. see if there were different and 2. if they were different, if I had a preference before buying a lot of wax. TayloredConcepts gave me the wrong wax (got soy, didn't realize it until I got home), but I emailed them and they were more than willing to replace what they had given me, so all is good there. AAA candle supply however, gave me palm wax flakes. I came home and made candles with it and it feathered and released from the jar.. just like what I would expect from a pillar/votive palm. I specifically asked more than once if it was container palm because I've gotten the wrong palm before from elsewhere (that was my ordering mistake though). I sent them an email saying they gave me the wrong wax, and they responded saying they only have container palm, it is intended to feather and release from the jar. They would be happy to take the wax back for a 25% restocking fee on the remainder of the wax. So my questions.... 1. Is there a container palm that feathers instead of crystallizes? I haven't heard of it if there is. 2. Have you ever heard of a container wax that would actually release from the jar? Their answer just doesn't make sense to me. Needless to say, unless someone tells me I'm wrong, AAA has lost a potential new customer.

Excellent question, I can't wait to hear some of the answers. I have found that Moonglow offers Soy based dyes, but only 4 colors, so you'll have to get a color wheel and start experimenting to get the colors you want. I had been using Redi-Glo chips from Peak, but discovered they're Paraffin based. I understand that Redi-Glo make soy based ones too, but haven't tried those, and Peak doesn't sell them.

I live in Dallas, so this is great news! Thanks!