cowgirl

primhut, What part of Indiana are you in that you have a container supplier 20 mins away?? If I might ask

Jakedog, I get big mushrooms with the LX series too, however in the 5 oz apothocary jars I don't get mushrooms, haven't figured that out yet. My scent throw seems to be pretty good though. I have tried the CD series but for some reason I have hangup on one side, due to the curling of the wick I think. I am going to test some other waxes considering there isn't a supplier that I can just drive and pick it up. I would be interested in opinions on the Golden brands wax

I have thought and thought, searched for ideas on the web and I just can't come up with an idea so I figured I would ask everyone here what their opinion is (alot of creative minds here). Anyway, the name of my business is Cattle Crossing Mercantile. I thought it was rather cute when I picked it out but it sure is hard to find something to go with it. Originally I thought an old western style mercantile bldg would be neat but I cant find one w/o ppl in the picture. Anybody have any ideas on what I could use?

I think these cups would be great but how in the world would you label such a small container? What labeling do you use besides a warning label or is that all you use?

Sexy as Sin is great, even my 20 yo son noticed when he walked in the house. Passionate Kisses is great too. I think you have a good list picked out

I was poking a hole after they cooled the next day and trying to use the heat gun, doing the repour, all kinds of things etc. Tonight after 2/3 hours of cooling (when the tops looked like they were setting up) I took a skewer and poked around just to see what would happen. Now I have a hole by the wick but I think it will be easy to fill in by taking the heat gun. At least I can see how big the air pocket was, before I was always worried if it filled in enough because it was under the surface. Hope that made sense.

Thanks MissyK, I am just trying different ways right now. I suppose by the time I get it figured out summer will be here and I will have different problems.

MissyK, I have tried and tried but for some reason I get a huge air pocket by the wick under the top surface. I have tapped the jar, done everything. So I decided to poke a relief hole and try the 2nd pour thing. Yes, I know this is a 1 pour wax. My old farmhouse is so drafty I don't know if that makes a difference or not, huge rooms and hard to control the heat. I have tried cooling in covered boxes etc. I tired the heat gun (on low) then that produced my jar adhesion to look like crap. I have poured slower, poured cooler, poured hotter. So, that is why I decided to try this way. I sure would take any suggestions you have though.

I am curious, when is the best time to do a repour? I always get a seperation line when I have tried that. . I use C3 and melt about 10 degrees hotter and repour in about 3 hours after it has set up a little, using a 3 1/4" jar. first pour is melting at 175, pour around 145 to 150 (so I don't get frosting). Tops are smooth though just that dang seperation line.

Thanks to all who replied to my question. I have come to the conclusion that I like the LX series best. for some reason I just cant get the cd and the htp series to work for me since they bend over so much. I get such a lopsided burn with those. The RRD series is pretty good too.

grandmaskitchen, did you have any hangup on the sides with an LX 22 ? I really dont like all that hangup on the sides with my LX22 so I am testing the LX24 also. I tried the RRD series too I tired them in another jar tho and this is strange. Same batch and the RRD 40 and RRD32 are burning pretty good but the RRD37 is terrible. Can't figure that one out. lol maybe I need a break

Thanks for the suggestions, I had no clue where to even start. Merry Christmas everyone

I just received my sample packs of LX and RRD wicks. I have no idea where to begin on wicking the 8oz square mason jar using C3 wax. Any suggestions?? Also, I have searched and searched for a burn rate chart on these two wicks and have come up empty handed. Anyone out there know where I can find one by chance?? thanks

I tried cooling in a box and got even bigger dents and bigger air pockets around the wick. I have seen post on here about big old drafty houses I am convinced that it is. However I will try the 160-165 and pour at 145 like you do. I have tried everything else, never know that might help. Thanks for all the input.

Yep I am finding that out, I am thinking about switching but I'm not sure what to switch to. The shipping cost on wax is unreal. $20 to ship a box from Illinois to Indiana. Just blows my mind.

I use cargil C3 nature wax, suppose to melt at 175, pour at 155 to 165. I am getting uneven tops which is resulting in air pockets (tunnels). When I pour at 145 I get smooth tops but terrible jar adhesion. I guess its just a trade off.

Would like to hear everyones ideas on checking for tunnels. What methods best works for you? Do you use a heat gun then poke around for air pockets (tunnels) OR do you poke around then use the heat gun ?

am i the only person who has trouble with reds burning properly? I am using C3, 1 oz fo pp, 1 drop of red dye to 2 # of wax. anything red will just not burn in a taper jar that is 3 1/2" tall by 3". i have tried CD 10 to 18, then tried the HTP 104 & 105. Any suggestions??? I am thinking about trying the RRD series. I melt wax to 175, add fo & dye at this temp, pour anywhere from 145 to 175. no frosting, tops look great HOWEVER after they burn about 20 mins there is a huge bubble/crater by the wick that causes a tunnel, which makes the wick burn faster then it leaves tons of hangup. I am so frustrated, I have tried everything. Pouring at lower temps to higher temps. Only thing I can think of is the temp is the house and I should cool in a box the jars come in. Time is running out for christmas presents so any and all help would be so appreciated. thanks in advance.