klo

I want to make this color and can never quite achieve it. anyone have a formula? I have dye chips, powdered dye and liquid to work with.

Is this a 16 oz jar? I could not wick this with one wick, which 2 HTP are you guys using? I am using 4786, love the way this jar looks. thanks

anyone using this for votives? When I went to re-order 4625 I was told this was far better. any suggestions? wicks? thanks:)

Searching candles sites for inspiration for my web site and ran across this. http://store.ergo-candles.com/tour.html I know this company has a great candle. scan down to the pictures of them testing wicks, a lot of cd20, surprised at the 5% if that is FO. I like the way their web site use to look better.

I have been testing these this summer with good luck, no falling off cord and scent staying good for 30 plus days. I gave 3 different ones to a family member and they told me the scent didn't last past a week, and one fell off the cord ( all in different cars) they thought will the cord one, the hole was too close to the edge. For those that have these, how long are you smelling them? In my cars I can still smell one in there since June 1st, not as strong, but can still smell it. I have made them both bumpy and smooth (by accident). I have thought about once the FO is absorbed to try and add for FO to see how much they can handle to get a stronger lasting scent. I love the look of them, but will the beads just in a bag last longer? The heating up process, I think, maybe taking the majority of the FO out. thanks for any feedback

You aren't kidding, I have shrinked wrapped everything I can get my hands on. The shrink wrap he gave me with the machine is 15" wide and its just too big, so I am wasting a bunch and I have a professional heat gun that I think gets too hot because if I am not careful I get holes at the seams. I had no clue how to use it and the owner of the company called me back and helped me get started, that was kind of unbelievable, seeing that I wasn't spending any $$$. But I am thinking about putting the label on the front instead of the top so that on store shelves they will see the scent name and put the directions on the bottom. Mine have seams on three sides since this is a roll and not a tube, can't figure how to include a pic with the new site

why were you looking into it? Did you have a vendor that required it? From what I understand larger businesses require this so I could be tracked if something went wrong. I guess thats how they do the recalls.

I am talking about being registered, check this out to see what I mean www.uc-council.org this is how they can track products, find how made it, etc...

Just curious to see who has a UPC code for their business. I have a man who wants to rep me and says he won't rep me without one.

scented, what sizes do you pour and do you bother with any additives?

I am working on adding a mottled candle to my line and can purchase m38 locally but read so many raves on 1274. For those who have tested both, what made you choose one over the other? The cold throw is great (I am making only a 2 x 6) and the hot is good. I don't have any vbar343 to try with it on the sweating, only steric and it did not seem to help on the sweating. The sweating thing also bothers me, seems like a waste of FO since its coming back out, is there anyway to have M38 not sweat but still be mottled? I have been testing at 6% per pound. thanks everyone.

I was given one of these and want to use it on my pillars, the company suggested I buy 10" film, but they do have 6". I want to be as efficient as possible and really have no idea what the candle will look like when done. I am concered about the bottom lying flat, I don't like how the candles sit in the cello bags, not always real flat. Does anyone use one of these and can give me some tips and send me pictures of what they do with it? If you want to see what I am talking about www.atwmfg.com I have the PW27 thanks

I use a cut off saw, was taught this by someone who has been in this industry over 30 years. Have gone through 2 in 8 years. You must buy a quality one because when my last one died from "wax suffication" lol and I bought a cheap one and couldn't get it lined up square. Also the bit tip needs to be fine and a high speed blade, its all in my studio so I don't know all the spec's off the top of my head.