Dana

OMG those prices are unbelievable....(rolling my eyes) forget that!

Ok thanks! I will check WSP.

I bought 800 from Millcreek and they are the 3oz. size. Does anyone know where I can get the large 6 cavity clamshells that hold 5 to 6oz. of wax?

I just ordered 800 from Millcreek and they are NOT larger. They still only hold about 3 oz. PM me if you want them. Anyone know where to get the ones that hold 5 oz?

Wow, I love the idea that you don't have to haul tables and fixtures etc! AND I LOVE the round tables.....AND the idea that you don't have to be there the whole time! Sounds like the perfect dream show to me! Good Luck!

I use the plastic shoe boxes and label it on the outside. They stack and slide easily into one of those cheap Sauder type shelving units. They work kinda like drawers but you can take them out and set it right next to where you are working. I purchse by the thousands though and all 1000 won't fit into one shoe box, so I have to split that up, so I need to get larger ones, but it works for me. Depending on what quantities you purchase in you could find a similar plastic box and stack them or slide like little drawers.

Are those jars the 16oz. Elite? I think they are cause the 8oz. are squatier, but you don't say for sure....

Yep, I get that too when it is hot and humid.....just let them sit! It will absorb back in or evaporate. I think it is not the oil but condensation because oil would not evaporate or "absorb" back in. I tend to get it more with liquid dyes more so than the dry dyes.

Thanks for the tip. I was just looking for another clove. Bittercreeks is up to $20lb. Idk maybe Fillmore's is just as high....?

They have minimums of how many but you can mix colors/designs to meet the minimum. On this one its a minimum of 6 and they are $7.50 each. Their quality is great and shipping is fast.

I wouldn't count on the shippng being fast! Many, many times I have waited weeks to get my order. Things can get backordered and shipping is high because they ship in the boxes they come in like a case pack, so they don't combine boxes. I do like their warmers though.

I have been doing alot of research and read many reviews and I finally called the masterbuilt company. It is not recommended to have liquids of any kind in this type fryer. The person I spoke with on the phone says they smoke (even if you are not smoking meat) because of the way they cook with infared heat and it will emit some carbon dioxide (in all smoke) so must use outside. SOooo it doesn't sound as good as I thought. I was hoping to get another "wax melter" for around $100. Guess I will have to get another regular oil type turkey fryer. My commercial water jacketed melter is getting fixed and I have one turkey fryer already, but I will need another melter of some sort. The commercial ones are so expensive. I found mine on craigslist at a great price.....but now I am replacing the heating element. I sure wish they made a super sized presto!

So will this unit work for wax? Is the drip pan issue a problem? Meaning are their holes? How do you get the wax out? Is putting a spigot necessary?

These were my questions as well. I was hoping someone might have bought one or at least checked it out and took a look at the inside. It says that clean up is a breeze so I am assuming it is smooth stainless on the inside. I think it would be way to heavy to dump like I do my presto. My main reason for interest in this one compared to the oil type masterbuilt turkey fryer is because of the heating unit is so hard to clean between scents/colors. I am getting away from pouring into pots and want to scent and color in the unit itself. I will definately need a spigot though. I think I will do a search and find out where these are in stock so I can check the inside etc. and report back here. Off I go!

Ok, so I'm surfing the net looking for another turkey fryer and stumble across this one http://www.mertado.com/?spact=product&product_id=7408 Of course, it looks like it needs a spigot, but it sounds like it would not have the heating rods which would make clean up a breeze. Anyone use this type turkey fryer?

I found one on ebay for 50 bucks and that includes shipping! It is a Salter Brecknell. I don't know much about that brand but they make many types of scales so I would imagine it would be a fairly good one. Anyone have one of these that can share some consumer reports?

Weighing in the smaller 6lb. batches was time consuming and not as accurate as it should have been due to the fact that I kept forgetting where I was in the count and messed up on a few large batches. Somehow I got to the 7th pitcher full of soy and it wouldn't fit in the melter. I was like ok, what did I do? What did I add to much of....Crazy, I couldn't add to 7, lol. So I started using a method where every batch I would pour in a penny would go on the shelf. That way I knew how many I had in there! It is just so time consuming to measure out each thing and then by the time I'd finish measuring everything for that batch I'd forget where I was in the count for the big batch. My digital bathroom scale is off cause when I ship a large box it is different when I get to the post office. I was thinking that I would invest in the 25lb. scale. That would work pretty well, I think. It would be alot to lift and pour into the melter though. I am a weakling. A step stool would help. Thanks for all the suggestions!

I make huge batches 42 pounds at a time and was wondering how those of you who do this measure your wax. I blend waxes which makes it even more difficult. Do you use a larger weighing scale, and multiply ingredients, or measure in say six pound quantities (cause thats what my container will hold (that is a normal size batch for me) and dump each 6 pound pitcher into the big pot? Hope this makes sense. I just made a few mistakes last year and want to make it less likely to miscount again, so measuring less often seems to accomplish this, but is a larger scale as accurate?

jackbenimble-that was my first thought when I read the message posted yesterday....what do my kids do when they want to find someone? Facebook! But I didn't know who to find, lol. But that is a good idea. We need a back up plan in case this happens for real. We need our "fix". Thanks!

I have been away so I couldn't respond until now. I brought the testers with me, lol, and even with over 20 drops per pound it doesn't seem to affect the burn. It doesn't seem very cost effective, but the colors are rich and pretty.

I just poured a tester with the evo dyes and boy it sure seemed like I had to use a lot to color a pound. I used 15 to 20 drops per pound in a parasoy. Is that about what you people use or is that way over doing it? It looks nice, just don't know if it will affect the burn.

Yes that amazes me as well. Maybe a miracle? Idk, beezwax with a zinc wick? I know zinc have a low ROC and with the metal core keeping the heat going.....I was thinking of trying zincs. I have some here, so what the heck. Whats one more tester! I think I have 6 candles burning right now...

I tried wicking up to a 20 but that was to wild from the get go, so I backed down to an 18 and been sorta happy with that until I started getting anal about the sooting the last half. The HTP's I have been really happy with...thought I had it...until the last 1/3 about. Tried CSN but those acted like the CD's with lots of flickering until I wicked down, then not quite hot enough. I was thinking maybe I should go back to pure soy in that jar. I seem to have less soot, but then the dreaded frosting. That was why I switched to the parasoy so I could get rid of the frosting issue. The parasoy works great with all my other containers. I didn't want to buy the pure soy just for this one customer, but I need to go back and compare the soy to the parasoy. I found one stashed in the basement from 2008, and lit it, so we shall see. This one is only filled 1/3 so I should be able to tell very soon.

Oh sorry, Stella. I was typing my post when you submitted yours, lol.

I am using a parasoy and was using CD's and went a little lighter on the wicking to reduce some of the flickers and soot the last half. Any smaller and not hot enough to reach full mp though. So I was ok with that for a while. But I am always trying to make candles better and better with all the new wicks, waxes and such. So when I read on here somewhere that HTP's work pretty well with a parasoy I decided to try those. Worked wonderful the first 1/2....then the sooting. Much less flickering and soot than with the CD's though. But still not perfect. I have some LX's which worked great in my smaller jar (8oz. mason). So I was gonna try that too. Thought I would ask though on here cause I don't want to waste my time again if this isn't even possible to achieve - no sooting on a 6" (more like 7") tall jar. It is a 26 oz. canning jar. I always wondered how people would wick the tall status jar or if anyone even attempted it.

Because the flame is going to burn down to a lower level with a 6 mm wick assembly than it will with a 9 or 10 mm wick assembly, so if Steve can let the flame burn down to the 6mm level without sooting & flickering, that's good to know, IMO.

I am not talking about the last few mm. I am talking about the last 1/2 of the jar! And I never heard him say he had no sooting. He says he doesn't have much problem with it, but that is probably with no vanillas and spicy scents. That is about all I make for this customer, so that's out. I will try less f/o though. That is one thing I have not tried. Funny, I have been at this for about 8 years now and I STILL have things I never thought of trying! Thanks!

I only buy one scent from RE, so this will be better for me from a shipping standpoint.

Ahhhh ok? Thought I was talking about sooting and flickering. What does the base of the wick assembly have to do with it?