Dana

I no longer try to get a full melt pool with a container paraffin or parasoy wax, certainly not at the first 1/3 of the burn. So long as I am getting a good HT and the container can be held in my hand without burning me I don't worry. After the halfway point the side clean up as more heat is going into the glass and a FMP appears. Are you burning these tins to completion and do they show the above behaviour? Post some pictures of your burns throughout these testing, they may help us. When I tried 6006 in glass I had to over wick to get an melt pool like I get with soy. The results was soot and a way too hot container.

I second that!

I use Bert's.....bought hers in 25lb. containers. Just poured over 80lbs of this scent and can't smell anything else! People could smell it all down the street, lol. Still have about 12lbs. left, but will be searching for another Christmas Tree scent after this season. Hopefully I can find one very similar. My customers adore this one!

The main thing obviously, in a big candle company is advertising. If you get the right advertising the sales will follow. Advertising costs LOTS of money. So members would have to "chip in" to make it happen. That is where it gets sticky.

Yes, I am trying to get it perfect, lol. I am just afraid a customer will only burn it for 2 hours or so and get tunneling. But on the other hand if they burn it for 8 hours or even longer, it still does not get to hot, even at the last 1/4. So I am good with that. It was funny though because last night I had one burning on the kitchen table and my husband walked by and was like "Wow, that is really burning nice." He has NEVER said anything, not once in 8 years about how my candles burn. So I guess this is a keeper!

I use powders. Very very concentrated. It is not messy unless you put it in the pot before you dump in the liquid wax. Then it seems to leave a fine color dust everywhere. But a little goes a very long way so the smidgen, pinch and dash measurement spoons are a must! I find them the most economical, although I think I am the only one on here that uses them. I have to add to much liquid to get the colors I want and that affects the burn. I have just purchased dye blocks for coloring 25lbs of wax. I havn't tried them yet because I don't want to test them on 25lbs and then waste it all if it doesn't work well. So I will need to cut them in half to test. They are from Bittercreek and I was wondering if the smaller chips are the same as the larger blocks, but just smaller. They have them named different colors though, so I wasn't sure. I will need to call them and ask.

I have always thought if we all got together and formed our OWN company .....we would knock both Scensy AND Yankee out of the water. We would have little "factories" all over the world with very little overhead. Anyone game?

It's not reasonable to think you can have a FMP at the beginning and the candle not get too hot as it burns down into the container where the heat is greater.

I use a CDN 14 in a 3" diameter widemouth canning jar. I can sometimes back that down to a 12, depending on the FO. Those additives may be too much. Try the CD 18 without all the extra stuff and see how it goes.

Maybe I didn't explain very well, lol. I am not getting a full melt pool at the beginning either because (I think) there is no "neck" to help hold in the heat. I didn't start adding anything until AFTER I tried the CD 18, 20 and 22, HTP 126. It is an acceptable burn, with a zinc. There is no soot and the flame doesn't jump around as if starving for oxygen. There is just a tiny bit of hangup until the end. Then I get a full mp during the last 1/4. BUT, I am trying to make it even better! I may be getting a little to picky.....this is a new jar for me so just exploring all the options. I also think if it would burn slightly hotter the throw would get even better too. Does anyone use this jar?

That size wick is too large. Try a CD 16-18. I think the 16 will work. Leave out the Crisco and CO - with a parasoy, why in the world would you use those additives? That's just overloading the wax with oil for no useful purpose. You didn't mention how much FO you are using... start with 1 oz. PP.

Yes, that is why it was flickering and wild. A CD 16 would not come close. I started with a CD 18 and went up from there. I added the CO and Crisco to ease the burn since I couldn't wick up anymore. That was my purpose of adding those additives as stated in the earlier post. I am using the Whisper jar and much of the heat gets lost since there is not much "neck" to speak of. Just as the candle burns down and you get more depth to hold in the heat, the jar gets wider. It finally burns clean the last 1/4 but I am trying to get a full mp all during the candle. I am using 1.25 to 1.3 oz fo, so not over loading....

Yes, I know about "The Torch", that is what I got from the CD 22 and Eco wicks. Even with that huge flame I didn't get a full mp. Definately don't want to double wick. So I guess I am going to use these zincs. The flame is nice and although I get a thin film around the widest part of the jar I still get a pretty good throw and it does melt down when it burns to the bottom 1/3. Just thought I'd ask in case there was something out there that someone stumbled across that helped. I don't really know yet though if the CO or Crisco is helping much, I don't seem to see a real significant difference and with CO being kinda pricey, would rather not have to add it. I only added 1 Tbls pp though. Maybe more would do it. Anyone else try 2 Tbls. pp with good results?

Is there an additive or wax I can use that will give a full mp in this diameter jar? I am working with 6006 and even a HTP 126 will not quite give a full mp. CD 22 burns wild and flickering (can't stand that). I am trying 1Tbls of Crisco pp and another with 1 Tbls of CO pp and it doesn't seem to make much difference in the burn. What else can I try?

I am placing an order for some thing from RE/AH and need a strong clean scent, like Bert's Downy April Fresh. Does anyone use KY's Clothesline Fresh and is it similar to Berts?

I have a Samsung laser too and the cartridges are very expensive ($130) now it has a problem with the roller I think cause it crinkles up the paper when it goes through. I can't find anyone to fix it around here so there it sits! $650 down the drain!

I have been at this a long time and all along I was thinking MP meant it would burn easier....meaning a smaller wick! Playing with these two waxes has taught me something (and you!) and that is there is always something else to try and always something else to learn in this business! THANK YOU!

Ok, I think I am understanding it. So a smaller wick might produce more heat in the 6006 than it will in the 415. In other words, it (6006) is not melting at a lower temp, it is just taking a smaller wick to achieve this. Correct?

I saw an ad in a magazine this month and then a store (the store I compete against, and used to work for) is now carrying this line.....wondering what your thoughts were about it. Why are they any different than the Yankee line other than different label?

I know it (6006) contains paraffin, but melt point means the temp at which it melts.....so why would it matter what it contains?

Wow, do I look lazy! No really I checked the website and couldn't find it! It doesn't really say on the links that you gave except the 6000 series link. On the MSDS sheet it has all the 6000 series together, so does that mean even the 6098 has the same mp? Ok, so I DID find it finally...but in CELCIUS! One thing I don't understand is why I can use a smaller wick for the 6006 than I can the 415, but the 6006 has a higher melt point. Thanks!

Beth- Thank you, where did you find that inf?

Does anyone know the melt point of the 6006? I can't seem to find it anywhere...

I don't purchase from Peaks or Lonestar...shipping to far. So ICS would be closer. Thanks!

I need a STRONG replacement for Berts...where should I begin? I have used NG's Country Clothesline....not as strong as Berts. Got another one I should try?

Nope, the dirt is not coming from the presto...it is on the wax slabs. The wax does not seem as greasy feeling as the last batch. I have burned 3 different scents with this lot# and the only one burning slower is the Grandma's Kitchen. I will call tomorrow and let them know about the dirty and different textured wax. I was reading a previos post about a certain chemical (can't come up with the name of it) that is in the spice scents such as clove, nutmeg, cinnamon and such. Well, that would certainly be the Grandma's Kitchen! I am wondering if this scent was altered at all due to this shortage.

Seems to be burning ok......slightly slower. The Apple Jack and Peel set up fine, so it must be the f/o from Millcreek. Any changes in Millcreeks oils lately for any of you? Still, I don't like dirty wax!

No, planning on contacting them today. This all just came about last night after I checked on the ones I poured the day before and then lit a tester. Sometimes wax will have visual changes, but will burn the same so I don't have to contact them. I want to make sure first. I will be on the 3rd burn today, so I will see how that goes. The tester I am burning is Millcreeks Grandma's Kitchen. That was always an easy burner for me though. Did Millcreek change something in this oil? After I get all my ducks in a row I may have to call them. I just thought I'd check on here cause I was a little concerned last night. It may be burning slower too because of the cracking (I wanted to test burn it with the crack) it has had a hard time catching up, plus I snipped the wick to short while trimming before the 2nd burn. So today will really tell me because I usually get a full mp with the 3rd burn. Oh, and thanks for the link Stella!:smiley2:

I have noticed this last shipment of 6006 from the candlemakers store to be dirty and have a dryer texture to it than any I have had before. It has little black specs here and there and I had cracks after cooling....poured the same as usual. Just lit a tester and after 1st burn it seems to be burning slightly slower, but don't know for sure yet. This lot # had 1/20/11 as the manufactured date and was made in Canada. Anyone else get this in there 6006?