Candle Man

Yes works of art are copyrighted by the artist and he can sue you if he finds out.

I'm going to do the new thing with photos on the net, when I get my web site up. I have come across quite a few sites that you can still right click on, but the image will not copy or print. The images will not even print direct from their web site, only the words.

Here is an example http://www.cafepress.com/buy/pet+photography

I do tell people it's EASY to make a candle. Just wax, scent, wick color & container, look at the dollar stores & Wal-Mart.

Then I also tell them it's very hard to make a QUALITY candle like mine. I have spent thousands of $$'s & hours to come up with a formula that is better that the major brands on the market. Then I show them my side by side comparrison of my candles verses the major name brands.

I'm going to make a mini infomercial of this and burn it to DVD and play it in my store on a flat screen tv. That way I don't have to repeat this info to each and every customer, personally.

I say show them why your product is better than the rest, then when they try your product then their hooked.

Their is no pic. That only links to your web site & I didn't see it there either.

Well, the post in the gallery on swirled votives looks like the marbled technique, to me, color wise at least. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51671

Search cyclo, you will find lots of info. You use FCO.

Someone said there is a tutorial on the Board that shows how to do the swirls in a votive. I never did find it.

Could someone link that, please?TIA!

So you did order the Glass Glow Palm Wax? If so, all the posts I've read said it has great cold & hot throw, with just about any FO, un-like soy. Maybe the type or size of wick is the problem.

BTW - I will test this wax this summer and see if it's as good as everybody says it is. If it is, I'll be adding it to my line this holiday season.

Yep, Like everyone else said, use the glass holder as the mold & with wick pins.

I fine it best to heat the molds in the oven (toaster oven works great) at 200*F then pour the wax at 180*F. They come out nice and smooth. When the votive is ready to be removed, you may need to push down on the top of the wax to get the wax to release from the glass. On stubborn ones, you may need to palce in the fridge for a few minutes.

BTW - You don't need any mold release in the glass holder.

wow these things weigh alot!!

It my be the same as their votives & tarts, compressed scented & color wax sand (wax the size & texture of sand). It also could be injected wax that is almost solid but just slushy enough to inject.

Go to yankeecandle.com and type swirl in the search.

I have cellophane wrapping (roll for pillars) and bags sealed with twist ties for votives etc' date=' all sat just waiting for some contents lol.[/quote']

Thats great' date=' thanks xx[/indent']

Since you are using cello, I would suggest to make the candles now or soon and store them in plastic containers. Then when it gets closer to the event then package them. I have found that cello can get a hazy film and dust on them, if you package them to far in advance.

HTH - Candle Man

BTW - I will start my Christmas candles right after Memoral Day.

any one know where I can find dry ice packs in bulk and rather cheap?

Fora straight pillar paraffin IGI 1343 is great. You can get a mottle, rustic & smooth finish, with this wax. You will need different additives for different effects.

Wal-Mart does not have plain white un-printed match books, unless only in certain areas.

WOW!!! PayPal is high at 2.9% + .30.

My merchant account is only 1.75% & .25 but it's only phone in orders & some people don't like to give CC #'s over the phone. I do keep all #'s very secure untill I process them, then I shred them afterwords. I never keep CC

#'s on file for security reasons.

I like the vinyl waterproof from online labels.They are real expensive compaired to paper. They have a nice matte finish and are completely waterproof with an Epson printer. Work great for labels on B&B products in the shower. www.onlinelabels.com

Nope, Not had that problem. LOL :laugh2:

I've thought about this before and looked at their site. They have so many different kinds, I got lost...lol

Yes I do mean 2 hours each burn, bucause it's a 2 inch diameter.

In candle terms, that is called a blow out, on that white candle.

Just to let you know, my 3X6 inch candles will burn for a total of 120 hours, with just a sliver at the bottom.

That burn looks good except the flame is to big and needs to be trimmed. It will most likely blow as it burns down further, like the candle you had did. I think you need to wick down one size and post more pics, with that size wick.

Forgot to mention - It looks like you have that candle in a draft as the top right looks thiner than the left plus the flame ti to big.

BTW - Two hours is the longest that size candle should burn. You should bur a pillar candle for 1 hour for each inch in diameter. That's a 2" candle should burn for 2 hours. Yes, I know customers don't know this, don't read or don't listen and will marathon burn them for many hours. If that is the case then that candle will not last much more than 2 hours till the wax runs down the side.

I make my pillar candles to burn 1 hour for every 1 inch in diameter. I tell the customer, and have written instructions. If they don't follow my instructions and it spills over, then it's their falt.

Yep, Smooth On is the best. www.smooth-on.com

The colors are great.

What is it you don't like about them?

If you want pink just use red, less red will give you pink. You may even want to use a toothpick, just touch the tip of the toothpick in the dye then use the toothpick to stir in the color.

BTW - You say you don't have orange. Do you have yellow & red? That makes orange.

I have tried oil based B&B dyes in cyclo. It does seem to mix in the beginning but over time it seperates.