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Candle Man

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Posts posted by Candle Man

  1. I called candles and supplies and there out of the 14oz pumpkin. They said they should be in stock in a couple of weeks.

    They carry the 10-14 & 18oz pumpkins with the 10 & 14oz being the most popular.

    They said the black hats will fit both the 10& 14oz.

  2. That looks great!

    I have tried layers in smelly jelly before but after they sit awile they will bleed and if you want to refresh the layers they would bleed.

    Have you had this problem?

    The only thing I could do different colored layers in was the arama beeds because thay are dry.

    Candle Man

  3. I have tryed the Ultra Clear (Coconut Oil) soap base from BCS and it is soooo drying.

    Are all M&P soaps this drying?

    Are there any other supplier that have the clear M&P base that is not drying? Are the white bases any better?

    The first ingredient is Coconut Oil so that means that is the most oil in the product right? If I remember right isn't Coconut Oil good for lather but if to much is used it is really drying.

    I would like to try other M&P bases if I could find any that was not so drying.

  4. This is something I found here

    http://www.thesage.com/catalog/FixedOil.html?mmsID=30b58c9c0186f433a3ef61f95307df0b

    "Fractionated coconut oil. This mixture is an esterification of coconut oil fatty acids and glycerin. You can make soap with this dry, silky feeling oil, as well as making lotions, dry oil sprays, lip balm, scrubs or any other place you use fixed oils. I have particularly liked the dry oil sprays made with the latest MMS fragrances and this oil." this is quoted from their site

    They use this without any cyclo.

  5. Those do look nice for your first. They do need to be topped off with more water just up to the bottom rim just before the threads for the lid.

    On your next ones up the crystals to 2 TBS they should look fuller.

    Here is my instructions again

    I do mine a little different than some of the instructions out there.

    I mix mine directley into an 8oz jelly jar. First I add about half a jar of distilled water then I add 1/2tsp of table salt (this seems to help with mold) then stir with a drinking straw then I add food color then 2 TBS of crystals then 1oz of fragrance then stir with straw. I keep stirring every so often until crystals have fully absorbed liquid. If I need I will top off with more distilled water just to the first rim on jar and stir. I use canning jar metal seals then the cut out metal lids. The canning jar seals work so much better than the wax coated paper discs or the plastic discs.

    Hope this helps. Candle Man

  6. Yes they will work. What I have found is that with different brands some will require more crystals to absorb the water.

    I do mine a little different than some of the instructions out there.

    I mix mine directley into an 8oz jelly jar. First I add some distilled water in the jar then I add 1/2tsp of table salt (this seems to help with mold) then stir with a drinking straw then I add food color then 2 TBS of crystals then 1oz of fragrance then stir with straw. I keep stirring every so often until crystals have fully absorbed liquid. If I need I will top off with more distilled water just to the first rim on jar and stir. I use canning jar metal seals then the cut out metal lids. The canning jar seals work so much better than the wax coated paper discs or the plastic discs.

    Hope this helps. Candle Man

  7. It may be near to impossible to find product liability insurance. All that anyone will insure me for in my store here in AR is personal liability and the building NO product or contents (inventory, office equipment etc. nothing) because of the dangers of making candles.

  8. How I make mine

    First I line a muffin tin with paper cupcake liners then I fill the liners with hampster cedar bedding then I melt scrap votive/pillar wax and scent with cinnamon then pour over bedding. If the bedding packs down after pouring I will add a little more bedding on top before they set up. Then let completely cool and pop out. I package mine in a cello bag 2 across & 3 high then tie off with some raffia ribbon and place a name & how-to lable on the front.

    I scent mine so strong that you can take them out of the package and put them in a basket beside the fireplace. That way they act as a room freshener until you use them to start your (real wood) fire in the fireplace.

  9. Wow beautiful! Those are truly works of art, that trully are to pretty to burn! At least I never would. They'd be sitting on my shelves forever.

    That's why when you make something like that you make it an everlasting candle. Just drop in a glass votive holder upside down in the mold then pour. Just don't pour to fast and move the holder.

    This way the customer can still burn it and be a repeat customer for more votives. Just make sure you take notes on the color so you can match it.

  10. I have a direct heat with a high & low switch & temp control holds 100 LB's. I leave mine on 24/7 on low & keep a votive/pillar wax in it. I have had it for 4 years & the only problem I had is a broken switch which I replaced. Like I said I leave it on 24/7 for 4 years with no problems.

    I don't like the water jacketed kind because you have to keep adding water. The heater on them is like a home water heater if you turn it on without water or let it go dry the heating element will go out.

  11. I don't put wicks in my firestarters because I am so afraid someone will light it sitting on their mantel or grandmas 100+ year table

    Good Thought! You never know what someone will do with fire starters just because they have a wick in them.

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