Candle Man
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Posts posted by Candle Man
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Question for Candle Man...you stated to poke around the wick after the candle sets up and then use a heat gun...does this mean you don't have to do that 2nd pour? I get these air pockets or tunnels deep along the wick when I use Ecosoya CB Advanced wax. What you said about causes makes perfect sense now, since the Ecosoya is entirely different from C-3 when cooling.If it's just air pockets, no you don't need to re-pour, just heat gun the top to fill in the pockets that you have poked.Maybe you didn't understand my post the first time you read it. Please re-read it again and see if it makes sense to you now.HTH - Candle Man
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Did you know their is a caculator on the left, under general info?
http://www.candletech.com/generalinfo.htm
A 4.5X6.5 in the caculator is 52oz's for a solid wax candle. Now you said you are using a hurricane mold. If you are pouring a hurricane then it would be way less, because it is only a shell of wax, no wax in the middle of the candle.
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They look good but...
I think you could add a tiny bit more green for the chunky ones. IMO the green looks just a little bit to light with the dark brown chunks. Maybe it's just the photo.
The solid green ones look like the perfect green, just turns to light with chunks.
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Greenleaf makes a great 70/30 soy para blend if you dont want to go through the hassel of mixing. :rolleyes2Yea, but their price is so much higher than if you blended your own.
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There seems to be some confusing in this post. Let me explain the difference.
Sink Hole - That is a hole you can see around the wick. You need to do a re-pour to fill this kind of hole.
Air Pocket - That is a pocket of air inside the wax around the wick you can not see. You need to poke around the wick and into the wax to feel for them, and open up the hole or holes. Then you can heat gun the top and you will see air bubbles rise as wax fills up the hole or holes.
How & Why do Air Pockets form?... It's when the wax cools faster than the air can escape. They collect around the wick because wax cools from the outside in.
I poke for air pockets in all of my container candles. You wll find that air pockets form more often in a cold pouring room or during the colder time of the year.
HTH - Candle Man
BTW - You did call it the correct name.
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BC's UV stabilazer is great in paraffin. I'm still testing it in soy. Here are candles left on a window sill for 2 years, that have not faded. http://boards.bittercreek.com/tool/post/bittercreek/vpost?id=1903890
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Candle Man, are you using the Bitter Creek NEW UV Color Stablizer or another UV?Cause on their message board, they have a picture of two candles that were sitting in a window, sun pouring in, and they didn't fade. years went by and no fading. It won't last long if you have to use a teaspoon per lb.... Have you used it soy?Yes, I'm using their UV in soy and at 1/2 tsp per 1 lb of wax I'm still getting fadeing. The fadeing is caused both by sunlight through my store windows and floresent lights, but most is from the lights.
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I don't label lids for that reason & I have a store and if the label was on the lid a customer might put the wrong lid on the wrong scent.
I only label the side (if you can stick a labele their) and bottom of the jar. On the bottom my warning label has my info Company name curved around the top and compamy address & telephone number curved around the bottom, the warning info is straight across with scent name placed in their. See attached...
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Looks great.
What do you do with any sharp points/edge around the inside top?
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Do you know what size that container is?
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Is it really that expensive to have a few custom silicone molds? I can't imagine a huge capital on just a few of them...A 3"X6" pillar mold averages around $20.00 and up. Now for production you would need dozens, in order to make the quanity needed. So yes it would be expensive. Plus she has different shapes & sizes so that would put the molds needed in the thousands of dollars.
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I made a candle and weighed it and the calculator is right. A 6"X3" pillar takes 42-43 oz's of wax.
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Use from .15% up to .25% depending on the dye, wax and fragrance being used.
Scroll down to see Chart here... http://www.bittercreeksouth.com/additives.htm
I'm finding I have to use 1tsp/lb, less than that and the candles still fade.
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Ooops ! Didn't know you wanted info of it in soap.
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BTW - Why does someone want such a thin 6"?
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I have all sizes & shapes. I'll pour one and report back tomorrow.
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That other calculator does the same thing, doubles it for a 6x3, this seems so wrong!!Is there anyone out there that does a 6 x 3 that could tell me?I can pour one up tonight and have a weight tomorrow.
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You know their site has reviews? Look at the reviews, scroll down to see them. I always look at the reviews before I even order a sample. http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/candlemaking-soap-supplies/item/df-8
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I don't know why the calculator shows it as different it is the same volume.
Pour both sizes and weigh them.
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Here is another calculator http://www.candlehelp.com/?content=calcwax
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NG has a great BRV.
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How much wax!!! that can't be right
in General Candle Making Discussions
Posted
That is true, you do need all the 52oz's, then pour out the rest latter as the candle get to the thickness you want the walls to be.