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Grannyscandles

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Everything posted by Grannyscandles

  1. I usually cut mine within 24 hours of unmolding. Then I know it isn't going to be too soft and yet I can still cut it relatively easily.
  2. Ok, I guess I am confused. I thought we were suppose to get our soaps as close to neutral pH as possible but someone told me that is not true and that a pH of 9.5 to 10 is desirable. Which is it?
  3. So does teh strand break down in the soapign process then?
  4. Personally I would not use essential oils in candles at all. They are expensive and you are not going to get the scent that you will with a fragrance oil. EO's are best left to soap and lotion applications.
  5. Laura - Here is a great link that tells how to build a great bar of soap. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3164 For me a 1 pound bathc makes 4 4 ounce bars.
  6. Where do you get your silk? ANd how much do you use?
  7. Always looking to make it better I guess.
  8. I usually add a couple oucnes of shea butter or some other hard butter.
  9. I went ahead with my Master Batch plans and I have a bucketfull of lye water to store. I have gallon jugs like lotion base comes in. Is this an acceptable storage medium?
  10. Oh I have done bathces of this before..lol. No way I would master batch an unknown recipe. I was just wondering if you guys saw any room for improvement etc. I use Summerbeemeadows lye calculator by the way. I ran it twice and it appears correct.
  11. the do look like bombs not melts...hmmm
  12. I have made the home made laundry detergent and yes you can use your FO in them. However, for cleaning power I recommend sweet orange essential oil.
  13. Ok here is what I am using for a basic recipe. I do add luxury oils at trace but this is the basic recipe. What would you change if anything? Coconut Oil 8 ounces PKO 8 ounces Castor 2 ounces Olive Oil 20 ounces (sometimes I use sunflower instead) Lye 5.48 ounces Water 12.79 ounces This is a 5% superfat so it leaves me room to add a couple ounces of wonderful oils at trace. I know it doesn't matter when these oils are added but this is how I was taught and so I do it that way..lol. I am wanting to make a master batch and want some input before I melt 70 pounds of oils..lol.
  14. I like to use room temp oils and lye water then make sure it gels in a warm oven. I find I have less problem with acceleration at lower temps. I DO mix my FO with some of the oils before add it to my traced soap because I HAVE made soap on a stick before and I DO NOT like it. I think it helps to do it this way. I have never had one rice so I can't answer that.
  15. I loke them Kathy but the label is a little overpowering in size.
  16. I went ahead and ordered a 4 ounce bottle. Hoping I dont' have trouble!
  17. Ok my brain is agog with this info. Help me out here would you? You mix all your oils in the appropriate quantities as you would for a smaller batch but in larger amounts. Ok I get that. Now help me out with the lye by the gallon thing. You do it the same way? So say your recipe calls for 12 ounces of lye and 24 ounces of water (or whatever) you just multiply that times 10 or whatever and you have ready made lye solution. Ok I get that part, I think. Correct me if I have it wrong. The part I am not understanding is how you know how much lye solution to use for a batch. The oils, I get that. You want 3.5 pounds or whatever of oils. For the lye solution, do you just weigh it til the scale says whatever your normal lye plus water amount would be?
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