StanfordP

My initial thought was this:  it's winter, and wet spots for me happen because I pour into a cold container. In addition to everyone else's advice above, try warming your jars before you pour. It'll help slow the cooling process. Though, wet spots are inevitable.

On 1/3/2020 at 9:15 PM, samiam said:

- I am using Soy Wax purchased from Candlescience (I am sorry but the wax was purchased a few years ago so I don't remember the exact name)

-- I use the Chandler & Me candle maker to heat the wax and tell me when to put in the fragrance oil

-- I have been using the Orange Blossom fragrance oil from CandleScience with a ratio of 1LB of wax to 0.5 ounces of fragrance (I also tried 1 ounce). I have tried other fragrance oils as well (that work great in my sugar scrub so I doubt its a problem with scents).

-- I put it into a pretty standard glass container with a diameter of about 3.5 to 4 inches.

-- I was using the Eco 8 6" pretabbed wick

I'll help you jump start your progress. I have customers that LOVE CS's orange blossom scent, so I've worked with it before. 

Wax, like everything, has an expiration date. "A few years ago" stored perfectly might be fine. But, would be worth buying a new bag of wax vs. wasting fragrance oil (which are much more expensive) on an old batch of wax. Your fragrance oil selection is strong--you should be able to smell it if you're doing it right. Boost it back up to 1oz/per pound... and that's one ounce by weight NOT volume. Everything in candle making is done by weight. Your wick is also too small. I don't use ECOs too much anymore, but I'd say try a 12 or 14. Ultimately your hot throw comes from the melt pool... so, it follows if you don't have a large enough melt pool, then you won't have scent throw. But, you also don't want to over do it. Gotta find the right balance.

Good luck!

Love my water jacketed melters...I leave it plugged in and running all the time, so wax stays melted and ready. Probably cycle through 1-2 refills per week. We’ve started doing more institutional business, so bought a larger melter for melting wax, and a “smaller” one for mixing and pouring batches. Then for super small batches (6-12 units), pour and mix into a pouring pot. 
 

still use the good ole presto pot for testing wax blends though. Can’t beat the ease of use!

Last time I ordered from them, they shipped a partial shipment. Never received the remainder. Emailed about it, and they “ran out”. Credited me the difference, but still sucks. I don’t like it when I have to bear the risk of another business not upholding their end of a deal, even if I got a refund.

havent ordered from them since. They buy all of their products from China. You can find everything they sell on Alibaba, though there are some MOQs. 

Late to the thread, but I save a ton on container costs by buying in bulk. Pallet pricing is where it’s at... cut costs by over $.50 per unit. It took a leap of faith to get to that point (storage costs and larger initial outlay of cash), but totally worth it in the end. Ultimately passed the savings on to my wholesale customers that meet MOQ requirements. Retail pricing stays the same, and everyone wins!

On 11/19/2019 at 9:49 AM, TallTayl said:

One strategy that worked well for me was to raise prices only on single item purchases

I used this strategy to great success this year. 

as for credit card fees, state laws aside, most credit card processors prohibit charging extra to cover the fees. Like someone else said, it’s the cost of doing business. I find that overall, if you raise your prices a bit, the cost of processing is balanced out by those paying cash.

another thing I’ve seen which is definitely prohibited, is charging more tax to cover the cc fees. If you’re audited by the dept of revenue in your state and have remitted 2% less sales tax (for example) because you were trying to save on fees, they’re gonna make you pay the difference.

I ran into some seepage issues earlier this winter. Evaluated all the elements and attributed it to fluctuations in temperature between pouring from melter to pouring pot. Best I could figure, the cooler Ambient temperature caused a quicker drop in wax temp, so I was mixing fragrance in at 165 instead of 180/185 per usual. Which then prevents the wax from properly binding to the fragrance. Boosted the melter temp to 190, and this solved my seepage issues.

as to the FO calculations. I do both methods depending on the fragrance oil. Ultimately, I’d rather have a few ounces extra than half an ounce not enough. It’s been years since I’ve used 464, but even when I used 8-10% FO, never had seepage issues... though the wax has changed since then too

On 12/6/2019 at 10:58 AM, kandlekrazy said:

Bergamot was my fav blend with Rose.  My rose was extremely strong so I ended up doing 50/50.

Almost forgot Satsuma worked well too.
 

I do a Bergamot Rose blend, too. Was a top seller this year. Checks all the boxes for me. 
 

Ultimately @Darbla you’ll want a citrus that can stand up to the Rose, which tends to be strong and heady. Something fresh and crisp. Pink grapefruit also comes to mind. 

Have you compared the extreme strength to the ultra? I have trouble with the extremes, generally. They add to the CT, but I notice HT is improved by using the ultra strength.

On 3/8/2019 at 9:31 AM, Trappeur said:

Can someone look at this supplier and tell how much the jars would cost if ordering a l,000?

 

Trappeur

On 3/8/2019 at 11:06 AM, Sunday said:

 

I sent them an inquiry Trapps ....keep you posted 😊

Looks like it’d be $6 per unit with a minimum order of 1,000 units. That’s a lot!! 😳

@MilosCandles I use the glass tumblers from Fillmore. I like them. And, they perform well. Can be marketed as an old fashioned tumbler after burning. Also, have the clear straight-sided jars and I like them better. Very clean and sophisticated look.

When I mess up a batch, I throw it out and start over. If the mess up isn’t terrible, I’ll give them away as “experimental units”. However, if I wouldn’t burn it in my home, I don’t want others to either. Usually just throw it out.

If you’re doing it just for fun and giving your products away, then totally buy the label sheets and print at home however you want. I use labelsonthefly.com for nice quality, cheap labels. Decoupage is a nice idea, but sounds labor intensive. I tried the handmade way when I first started out a few years ago, and I quickly realized it was unsustainable.

On 1/14/2019 at 8:19 PM, obsessed said:

this thread is so interesting! I am intrigued in the type of coconut wax you use. As I mentioned earlier , my All Seasons Cocosoy blend does not like the heat ... it's been a killer summer, with tomorrow in the 40's! (Australia) Even in the high 20"s my candles are sweating at the markets undercover. I find adding coconut wax has the opposite effect with me ... it softens the wax. I would love a harder cocosoy wax blend , as they make a beautiful creamy, expensive looking candle. Do you live in a cold climate by any chance? If not , why would your coconut wax be harder? Wouldn't it be the same? Also , Isee that Nature wax makes a blend .. have you tried it? I use ti use C3, but didn't like the bubbles. Does it bubble as much with the addition of coconut? Sorry for all the questions!!!

thankyou

 

The coconut wax isn’t harder; in fact, it’s much softer. If you want a harder blend of coco soy, I’d say just add some more soy wax or beeswax. I haven’t tried naturewax’s cocosoy blend. And, I still get bubbles with C3, BUT I notice less bubbles if I pour hot and slow.

I'm not sure, but I'd guess they happened upon the same stock image? 🤷‍♂️

I'm along the same lines as everyone else. I have business cards, but RARELY use them (probably because I changed my branding...). I used Moo and ended up going with the small rectangular, double-sided card. They're actually pretty nice. But now, just print the 4x6 cards and keep a stash on me. I like the idea about printing the order on the opposite side, but would need to figure out the logistics.

On 12/20/2018 at 3:00 PM, jfc said:

 

Good news, I didn’t get any lines.

@stanfordp: what is your pouring temp for the second “pour”?

Hmm... Probably around 145ish? Honestly, I don't go off the temp of the un-poured wax. I judge what the poured wax looks like in the container.

On 12/17/2018 at 4:04 PM, Laura C said:

 

Beautiful, love it, love how the glass glows. Did you double wick it? What scent is it? Are you going to sell candles in them?

 

I have some similar ones in clear, blue and black that I got at Candles and Supplies last year. Would love to sell candles in that type of jar but would have to charge Voluspa prices to make it worth while. LOL. One idea is to try selling them as "Special" or "Limited" editions with a higher price tag and see if people will buy. Don't know, can't speak from experience.

I bought a case of the Dream Vessels and put my "limited edition" holiday scent in them. Charged $38 each, and have no trouble selling them. They're not flying off the shelf, but it's a great option for people looking for something luxurious. Just need to find the same containers for cheaper! 

On 12/17/2018 at 1:22 PM, GoldieMN said:

I wonder if this would work for smaller containers without leaving a line in the wax.  Say, fill jars half way, cool, then finish filling.

GoldieMN

I don't let the wax cool completely, so there shouldn't be a line. But, any time you do a double pour, the odds of sinkholes reduces significantly.

On 12/15/2018 at 6:56 PM, jfc said:

hi everyone, pouring at 170-175 F solved my texture problem. my room temp is 67F so pouring hotter helped! 

 

now i have to figure out how to cool evenly! i am using a cooling rack at the moment. i notice the center takes the longest to cool which is why i'm getting cracks but when i cover the candles, i get sinkholes. any tips?

I don't find using a cooling rack helps much. One thing I've started doing more recently is (especially in larger containers) pouring a small amount of wax to fill about an inch at the bottom. Once I notice it starting to cool and turn white, then I fill the container. That first "pour" sets the foundation for the rest of the wax to cool evenly. Ideally, you want the bottom to start cooling before the top. In my 14+ ounce containers, I don't run into issues using that technique. All in all, adds about a minute to the pouring process--not a bad tradeoff for even cooling!

2 hours ago, jfc said:

hi stanfordp, do you ever get sinkholes pouring this high? what is your cooling process like?

I pour hot, and wait until the last minute to put wick holders in place. I also do t use metal wick holders. The metal cools the top faster (resulting in sink holes). You’re ambient room temp should also be above 68. And, I place my jars about an inch apart. That way the heat stays trapped between the units, and they cool together. Sink holes are inevitable. But, it’s all about the thermodynamics if the wax. Reduce the heat fluctuations and you’ll reduce your sinkholes. Good luck!

13 hours ago, earthfriendly said:

Welcome jfc.  I use C-3 although I'm currently taking a break from making candles for awhile.  I heat to 180 and pour between 175-180 and prefer premier wicks.  There are others on this board that use C-3 and have success with CD-CDN wicks and others that have success with different pouring temperatures.  There's a post on here where many were complaining that the C-3 wasn't performing as usual and that maybe the formula had changed.  Just keep on trying and don't give up. 

 

I use this same formula (though heat to 185). Pour hot and use premier wicks. Smooth tops most of the time!

21 hours ago, Candybee said:

I like it at the top the way you have the first one typed out.

Agreed.

8 minutes ago, Candybee said:

 

I just looked again and the 50 lb cocoparasoy blend restock date is Dec 19. However, they have the coconut soy blend 50 lb bag in bead form in stock. So I am confused. I thought you said you are using the coconut soy blend?

I blend it myself. I’m using the beads right now as a last resort, but I’m not a fan. Plus, the beads have melted into one giant block! 

1 hour ago, ellajoan said:

@StanfordP, this is so exciting to me.  Looking for a way to improve my HT and I already use and love Premiers.  Are you willing to share what your F.O. percentage is?  If not, I understand.  You've already given us lots of food for thought.

 

Fragrance load really should be tested to find the optimal amount. Plus, it varies so much depending on personal preference. I’d rather not say, if that’s okay.