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Quentin

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Posts posted by Quentin

  1. I've been gone from this since last August. I worked hard enough to keep stock on-hand for my best customer. It was a long line of unfortunate and costly incidents I had to handle. I'm back into it now, and I realize I've forgotten a few things. I'm embarrassed to say that I have about fifteen different waxes. I haven't even tried most of them. Here is my first question: Is there any critically, significant difference between IGI 4627 Comfort Blend and IGI 4630 Harmony Blend? As I read the product fact sheet, I can't see much difference. I find both of them to work well for me. I'm trying to decide what waxes to eliminate, and move forward with as few as possible.  

  2. 10 hours ago, Hometown Handmades said:

    My most recent candles and melts I’ve been using a higher fragrance oil  percentage however the scent is either faint or nonexistent. Soy 464 Can have up to 10% fragrance load I’ve been putting in 9% last few batches instead of 6%. And my wax melts is specifically for melts and tarts soy 494 and that is up to 12% fragrance oil. I was previously using 8.4% and now after they cool there’s no cold sent throw or barely if any I’m putting in the fragrance  at 185 stir lightly couple minutes  and pouring around 140 for candles and 160 for melts as instructed. These aren’t light fragrances either  High maintenance, ocean, Amber and driftwood. Is it possible it could be the pouring picture I’m using Do we need to switch those out every so often I’ve only been using it since April I always wipe it out and clean with alcohol I don’t know what it could be. 

    I experience the no cold throw after pouring "problem" constantly. It happens with some of my strongest, and bestselling fragrances. While I'm cooking up a batch, the aroma can be strong enough to make my eyes water. I pour it, come back later after it's cooled, and there's no scent. After the candles have cured for two weeks, I open the lids and the fragrance comes pouring out. Don't buy another pour pot. That's not what's causing it. As to your fragrance load question, I also tend to push the limit. If the wax data says I can put in 10% fragrance, that's what I'm going to do. If you feel that increasing the load has caused this to happen, go back to what was working and use that amount of fragrance. More is not always better. If two aspirin makes my headache go away, will taking six aspirin be even better?

    • Like 1
  3. On 3/5/2020 at 10:14 PM, gls said:

    I've been trying to keep better records to help identify what batch a particular product was made in.   Under each batch number, I keep as much information, as possible, about the ingredients that are included. For example what lot wax is from.   My problem is including this number on the product somewhere.  I'm not sure how to (easily) do this. 

     

    If product has any issues, how do you identify manufacturing info to start investigating cause?  

    I came up with a format that works for me. My lot numbers look like this:

     

    LOT: CX120A, where "C" stands for container, and "X1" stands for the month it was produced. X = 0, so X1 is the month of January. "20" stands for the year, and the "A" suffix tells me this was the first batch poured on that day. This information refers me to my worksheet where I can review all the details of that batch. If a customer submits a complaint, I can look at my data and see whats going on. This also allows me to do long term, ongoing research on wax and wick combinations. 

     

    Example 2--- LOT: P1019B, where "P" stands for pillar candle. 10 is the month of October [Notice the "X" is gone] and 19 represents the year, 2019. Here the "B" suffix stands for the second batch produced on the day in question. 

     

    Example 3--- LOT: SX220C, where the prefix "S" stands for "Specialty", which is a catch-all term for any other type of candle. The format tells me that this candle was poured in February of 2020 and the "C" represents the third batch of all the different candles made on that date.

     

    I add the lot number to my worksheet, the candle label, and I enter it into a production spreadsheet log that I created. This format is simple, uniform and consistent. It's not overly redundant, and it provides all the information I need to go back and review what I did. 

    • Like 2
  4. Greetings, 

    I've been gone from this forum for a few months. After my father died in August, taking care of his final affairs became a full-time job.  Anything candle related was set aside. Once I had that behind me, the tenants at my rental house skipped out on me. They trashed the place, and getting the property back to a livable state is my new full-time job. Anything candle related was set aside. Straight to my question about wicking non-square jars. Wick charts only provide information for round candles. My jar is square. It's dimensions are: 3.25" X 3.25" side-to-side and 4" diagonally. How do I go about adapting the charts to a non-round jar like this?

  5. 23 hours ago, EllyM said:

    I got my sample from AFI and it is amazing.  It's the exact dupe for CS Smoke & Odor Eliminator and I might even say a tad better. Made melts to test the effectiveness and wow it filled the room  and eliminated cooking odors. Held up for 3 days!  Slowly  but surely I am going to find dupes for the CS oils that I use as they have been discontinuing too many in my opinion so I'm going to find back ups just in case.

    Thanks for the tip @EllyM  I've been trying to mix my own but can't quite get there. I want to order the AFI version of CS Smoke & Odor Remover. Please tell me who AFI is and if you have a link that would be wonderful. 

    ---Q

  6. Many nice containers can be bought at Dollar Tree Stores. If this chain has stores in the area where you live, I'd check it out. However, the supply that their stores have on-hand is sporadic. You can go to their website, order in quantity, and have them shipped to the nearest store with no freight charges for store pickup. Dollar Tree has it's share of quirks. They sell the "typical" status jar (3 inch diameter) . I can tell no difference between theirs and the ones I've bought online, and there is no freight since you're buying it at a retail store. The quirk is that they don't sell the lid! I buy my status jar from them, and order the lid I like from online sellers. My overall cost is lower because I'm only paying freight on the lids. :yay:

    • Like 2
  7. On 11/7/2019 at 2:32 PM, sarahmarah said:

    Business question. I know everyone has a different market and business model so I’m sure the answer varies widely but—is there a general guideline for how much is ideal to pay for your candle containers? How much is too much? I know you factor it into your retail price but is there a general rule for what an individuals price cap for a vessel should be? Based on percentages etc?

    I’m racking my brain and I’m not finding useful info when I search...

    Thank you for asking the question I've been meaning to ask.

  8. 10 minutes ago, xxxAlpha71xxx said:

    I've gotten a bit frustrated myself and have a new approach.  I've done a bunch of testing that shows that a CD 10 wick in 6006 wax in an 8 oz elite jar from FC works for a lot of the scents I've tested .  If I make a test candle that doesn't work with a CD10 then I'm just putting that scent to the side to re-visit later.  Now, if I can just get those 8 oz tins to cooperate....

     

     

    Wow! I've been using 6006 with a CD-10 on almost every one of my container candles. I must be on the right track and didn't even realize it!:thumbsup:

    • Like 1
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  9. 37 minutes ago, The Candle Nook said:

    — but, I only use 1 wax and 1 vessel

    @The Candle Nook This is interesting. Are you saying that you've settled on one wax that works for all your container candles and all your different fragrances, and/or all of your pillar candles and all your fragrances? I'd love to be able to hear more about that. I probably have ten or more different waxes, and that's ridiculous. I've been trying to find the one best container wax and the one best pillar wax, but my approach has been haphazard at best.:) 

    • Like 1
  10. On 12/24/2018 at 9:48 AM, TallTayl said:

    Those 14 sales could be to friends, family or a sock puppet account to get the sales ball rolling.  Could be this is truly a hobby and the profit does not matter. 

     

    Regardless, I see pricing issues everywhere, even here. None of my business. Sellers come and go every day.

     

    A lot comes down to luck.  the more I focus on my own business the luckier I get. 

    Legendary investor, Warren Buffett, said, “Someone’s sitting in the shade today because someone planted a tree a long time ago.” It’s been a reminder to me that success, in almost all forms, takes time and nurturing.

    • Like 1
  11. I haven't been trying to get into any retail outlets. It sounds like you're using the same size sample as I am. I'm using those "maxi cup" size candles for samples. I include one for free in all the orders I send out; and I send one that I think the customer might like (I make an educated guess) based on the fragrance they just ordered. 

    • Like 1
  12. Same information as on your your average business cards. Unique, memorable, and people keep matches. Business cards get tossed in the trash. Plus, what goes better with candles than matches. The matchbooks shown here are the cheapos. When I re-order, I will step up to a glossier finish. These tend to scuff as you can see in the picture.  I should also mention that the turn-around time is not too fast; so get started early if you like this idea.

    image.png

    • Like 2
  13. perfectimprints.com 

    800-773-9472

    There catalog of projects in gargantuan. See if you can talk to Gil. I just took a picture of my matchbook. Of course, now I can't find where I put it on my computer. If I ever find it, I'll post it here.

     

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  14. On 8/15/2019 at 12:33 AM, BusyBee said:

    I have question for chandlers in California.  Has anyone doing this candle making business out of a house?  I went to the City to register my business out of a house, and I got denied.  As you know we have all kinds of regulations in CA.  I live in Los Angeles County and I even had gone to next Riverside County also.  They said "NO" also.  I have LLC set up and I should be able to get seller's permit without a problem, but I cannot get city business license to operate out of a house.  Does anyone know how to get business license operating out of a house for candle making business?

    The first mistake you made was to ask for permission from a nit wit government official. It's much easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission. Why not just practice your "hobby" in your home and sell candles on the side? 

    • Like 1
  15. 6 minutes ago, lovelyscents said:

    I think a great scent description and amazing photos do the trick for online.  Take for example when I am shopping for fragrances.  Some suppliers really know how to wheel me in to keep buying more oils for the simple fact that their descriptions make me excited and the photos take me into the scent somehow...hard to explain but those seem key, along with being very active on social media.  I'm finding alot of customers like behind the scene shots, unique scent blends, and giveaways.  Also free melt samples of the scents you offer helps for their future orders as something they never thought to order by description, smells amazing to them in person.

    Thank you. Those are all good ideas. As I was reading your response, it dawned on me that almost every fragrance I've bought online was a result of the images and descriptions the seller presented. When I do make an online sale, I always include a Maxi-Cup size sample of another fragrance in my line of products. That costs me about $1.00.  I haven't even thought about melts yet. Much cheaper than what I'm doing, I'm sure. Doesn't the customer need some idea on how to use them, or do you just send it so they can get a quick sniff? I'm starting to get interested in the melt idea for samples now. I'm wondering if fragrance strips or blotters might work as well.

    • Like 2
  16. 3 hours ago, NightLight said:

    It was the new waxes that were atrocious! Wax had awful smell, had strange off white color, fragrances would not full incorporate in wax, throw in waxes were not there. In fact only a few would actually work. There are photos here that I took.

     

    The pillar blend the new one maybe was different, or they kept the old formula. I used the old waxes and they were easy to use not the best for throwing fragrance but they poured nicely with smooth tops from what I remember.

    Unfortunately, it's the throw that does the first job of selling a candle. Which brings up a question I've been meaning to ask. How do we sell scented candles online when the customer has, at the most, only a vague idea of what it might smell like?

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  17. On 7/4/2019 at 9:07 AM, kdes7 said:

    Which type of labeling paper is the most professional looking for jar candles and product packaging?   Waterproof?  Thickness?   I am so bad at this.  Thanks for any help!

    My general approach is to buy glossy whenever it's available in the style I want. Nice and shiny. Exudes quality. Now if you need a "rustic" look, there are plenty of choices. Kraft paper and many others are available for the rustic candle maker.

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