NightLight

This sounds like your fragrance could be culprit, also try even smaller wicks and make your burn 2.50 hours. That much coco 83 will need smaller wicks. Reduce fragrance load to 6 per cent. Right now your candle wax is very soft with the addition of that much fragrance so will need small wicks. You should try CDN wicks. Try smaller wicks cd5,cdn5, lx 10 make sure you burn for a couple hours. Above wick combos I can tell they are too hot.

Ok good you went for the small wicks. You could try CDN wicks they burn slightly cooler than CDs. I love them. Lx can burn pretty hot.

There are Eco 1 wicks you could try.

Candlewic has them but them want close to 17 dollars for shipping.

Decided to add palm to my wax to harden it and see if I can’t use the Eco 1

I have the votive blend from Flaming, the only wicks I like in it are Eco but the ECO 1 still burns too hot.

I looked for smaller sizes but only UK listings show for small sizes! Why available in UK and not USA I do not know unless someone knows where to get these! Candlewic has .5 but in spool.

Anyone have a source?

Try 1 per cent beeswax

ALSO

https://soapauthority.com/preventing-soda-ash-cold-process-soap/

Sounds like a line out of a movie, but it’s true! The amount of water used when making cold process soap dramatically increases or decreases your chances of getting soda ash on top of your soap. That means the best way you will be preventing soda ash on cold process soap is to pay attention to the water!

For cold process soap, the more water you use, the more likely you are to get soda ash. I have found that a 30% or more water discount generally means I won’t see soda ash on my soap. The higher the water discount, the less likely the problem. I prefer to do anywhere from 35% to 45%. You never want to discount more than 50% of the water. Read more about using a water discount here.

Now, keep in mind that less water means that trace will happen faster. If you are using a recipe with a lot of hard oils it will reach trace faster. When you use a fragrance or essential oil that speeds up trace, like clove essential oil, it will reach trace faster. If you soap at higher temperatures, your soap will reach trace faster. So however your soap recipe behaves without a water discount, just keep in mind that water discounting will decrease trace time!

Ways to slow down trace time when using a water discount:

• Soap with your lye water solution and oils at room temperature
• Increase the percentage of oils in your recipe that slow down trace (avocado oil, olive oil, etc.)
• Stay away from essential oils and fragrances that accelerate the time it takes to reach trace
• Stick blend less

Another thing to remember is that the humidity where you are can also affect your soap. If you have high humidity (over 30%) on soap making day, consider a slightly higher water discount.

An additional point worth noting is, the more water you have in your batter plus the longer that water is exposed to air, the more likely it is that you will find soda ash on cold process soap. It seems that batches poured at a thinner trace (more watery consistency) take longer to go through the saponification process. A medium to thick trace helps speed things up a bit.

I have used a pinch of beeswax in batches and it does work. Do you cover your soap?

Those look great! If you want to beat ash on soap, you can spritz lightly once 91 per cent alcohol on top after you finish the pour and top finish!

I don’t buy their fragrances anymore. They keep changing them and also their new ones are atrocious. Not like earlier years they had very good scents. The new ones are bad.

You need small wicks with 6006. Try cd 4-6 for that jar. 8-10 maybe too big. Also fragrance can change wick sizes.

Agree to both the Make it and the Brambly one 😳

You mean the one that sells Wooden Wicks? They don’t seem to know what they are talking about

Some waxes do that but you need to add your fragrance at higher temp to incorporate into the wax. Adding lower is myth.

Yes you can remake. 

If you want a quality perfume you have to learn how to make one.

Bought a wood wick candle with same jar. Measured the wick and booster. Problem solved with wicking😂

I don’t think one is a deal breaker but try a different wick. As TT said make sure you heat and blend fragrance in very well, as it could be the last one with fo not dissolved enough in wax at bottom of pour pitcher that could be the problem. Try a mini test batch and see how it works. Just to let you know I have burned plenty of commercial tea lights and most of them are terrible. 

For example ikea tealights are cheap and they have a terrible burn.

You answered your own question. Type of fragrance.

I’m burning one I bought. It has a booster similar to what I bought. Hmmm

Hahah and i thought regular wicks were a pain enough. I feel like the queen of wicks, I have many varieties 😳

Sarah 

You do need to take meticulous process notes. You must heat your wax to at least 185 and stir fragrance in well. Ignore the advice about burn off unless that fragrance is NOT formulated for candles. This is important. You should only use fragrances DESIGNED for candles, otherwise not going to work for you.

It is important to heat that wax up properly to have the wax and fragrance bind. If you don’t you will get all kinds of issues.

I would contact the manufacturer of that wax and get more details about it. Like recommended pour temp and whatever handling is needed.

Anybody out there?

Sarah, 

I think you need to do several things.

Poor several test candles starting with just the wax, then do other testers with 1-6 per cent stearin and see how they are.

Most soy wax without additives will have that crumbly top unless you add either paraffin or other wax types.

Take the candles you have poured and see if heat gunning the top will make it smoother. Many just soy waxes you can yeast gun a smooth top but mind you once they burn they revert back to ugly top. 

Now some people do not mind this as they market their candles to those who want an all veggie candle.

Issue though with you the manufacturer not disclosing what is in your candle wax!

Pour temps can affect the tops of candles and adhesion, too low or too high you can get the uglies. It really depends on the wax as some are meant for higher or lower pouring. Even fragrance oil can affect appearance in just soy candles!

Some wicks do that, and with particular fragrances!  If it works go with it. 

So I decided why not try these wood wicks. I ordered a bunch from Northwoods, wood wick with booster. Anyone use these? I have no idea what wick to use for 464, and parasoy as I use both.  Any advice appreciated.

Post photos of what you consider defect and as much info about wax and process. When you scale up without practicing production and working out kinks it can be an issue!