NightLight

I start testing with a candle just above halfway point. Then see how that burns, then make a full size and burn top to bottom.

Also depends on candle jar. You can go for bigger wick if it isn’t too deep, but if you have deep jar the heat from the jar depth you will need smaller wick. The candle jar height holds in heat. Try shallow tin versus taller candle jar.

Those spots rancid oils. Add like 1/2 tsp sodium citrate per pound. Look up edta. Many oils prone to this as TT says canola and soybean oil. Salt also hardens but also cuts lather. Use ONLY distilled water for your soap.

Buy sample waxes to test! Read this forum. Candle Science has a pretty good wick guide to guid you.

Add sodium lactate, or pure soy wax. You will love sodium lactate! Do a google. A small amount of beeswax is good to 1 percent, this also prevents ash.

It may be cheaper for you to get bag and printing done by company. There are tons of companies doing that now. You can check Etsy also for services.

I have never had issues with C3. One of my favorite waxes for cold and hot throw. Make sure you are heating wax to 180-185 and stir fragrance in well. Your fragrances have to be robust to begin with so pick strong scent fragrance oils. Not all them work well in candle wax.

Never heard of other wax.

If your fragrance oil has vanillin, this will cause browning. Other aroma chems will as well.

You have to test each fragrance.

CD 14 and 16 can work depending on your fragrance. Try CDN wicks same size. Make sure your burn for 2.5 hours at least.

it also sounds you are trying to wick too many vessels. Pick one, and wick it before moving on to another type. Tins and glass different.

Diameter, height all determine how candles burn as well. You can try very small ecos to double wick. Ecos come .75.

Test each fragrance, and wicking can be very different depending on what you are using. Some wicks and wax you wil go two three sizes up and vice versus go down. Start with plain wax just to get a baseline without fragrance as a starting point.

Eco 2 may still be too hot. They make smaller ecos. I like premiers as you have better control with so many wick sizes to choose from. If you are still getting too hot a burn with wick, add soy. Or change wax.

You need small wick. Premiers could be good, the ones your ordered can work. Ecos will have to be on lower side but maybe too much.

Now if you’re still having issue add some soy to slow down the wax and test again. Add like some 415 10-15 per cent. Some waxes like 6006 and Problend are super soft and pain to wick, especially when they get to middle of container.

Sounds like overwicking. I have been using premiers in a parasoy wax blend similar. They won’t mushroom if you have the right wick.

I would go to smaller size. From your description it sounds like overwicking. Also make sure you don test burns for 2.5 -3 hours. That will tell you a lot. If the meltpool at top is very deep, by middle it could be super deep. You can always add some soy to 6006.

I don’t have but saw at Genwax.u

I have a parasoy blend I am working on. After a certain percentage of paraffin, I start to lose the afterburn adhesion and get the uglies.

Does anyone use mineral oil to soften up the wax a bit more to stop this, or micro wax to make wax stickier. I amusing this blend for clear ish jar containers. I wouldn’t care if the wax was in opaque jars…

These blends are very much secret due to how long they take to create. You may find a blend from a manufacturer or you will pay quite a bit to have developed. Beeswax is as natural as you can get.

Beeswax and coconut.

Hate botanical topped candles and soap!

Chocolate and coffee are good too!

Pumpkin is great as TT says, forgot about that one.

Clay you don’t need much for impact.

Other tomato paste!

Good for texture calendula, parsley, ground oatmeal (a little goes a long way, make sure blend in coffee gizmo)

These don’t go all funky in cp soap.

A smidge of beeswax works super well for chalky tops.

Teas for the most part go brown in soap

wine and beer

I love adding coconut milk to soap. Makes nice lather. Are you adding sodium lactate? That makes a nice firm soap.

Adding a small amount of clay for color and feel is a good addition as well. A little goes a long way. Some of the reds are intense.

https://thenerdyfarmwife.com/brazilian-clay-soap/

Freedom is their version of 464, got that from the company.

There are two kinds of soy wax. Sox wax made for containers, and soy wax made for pillars. BUT all soy wax without paraffin majority of the time will do that when you add dyes. It will frost.

You can get soy blends with paraffin wax that will work better with dye, or do a all paraffin blend which will handle dye beautifully.

You will need to test. Now for melts you do not want container wax you need like a tart wax, or pillar wax.

You will need to test some of the harder waxes the blends or paraffin and make sure they actually melt in tart warmer.

Ok first tip. Yours tarted your business too soon and dint work out the problems with your product.

Soy will do that with dyes. If you do not want frosting you need a different wax to work with dye.

If you do a search on wax tarts you can read about different ways to make them with different waxes!

All paraffin or soy mixed with paraffin will give you the best results but you will need to test them in burners.

too hard and they will not melt, too soft and they won’t get out of molds.

If it’s wicking for 464, I would try one at CDN 12. I have found CD/CDN14 for open jars and then CD/CDN 10-12 for jars with lip.

That fragrance may take an an 8. Only way to test is make another one.

I am testing a number of their waxes right now.

Is Millenium 464 or Freedom.

Testing the coco-soy and their version of 6006.

The coco-soy has insane adhesion BUT tops are hard to modify into pretty and it does not play well with additives.