NightLight

If you have a deep meltpool at top of candle after three hour burn, by mid candle that meltpool will be much deeper, so you need to adjust wicking. That’s the candlemaking torture of finding the right wick!

CD 24 can work 3 inch container BUT burn all the way down if container is more than a couple inches in height that CD24 might change to CD 20! For example I have a tin CD24 soy wax that works great with that size all the way down, but the height of tin is not more than 3 inches. If the tin was taller I would know that the CD24 would burn hotter deeper in tin.

When testing wicks a neat trick is make a candle without a wick, then skewer a hole with like a swish kabob bamboo stick. Then you can switch out wicks to test! You want wicks to be trimmed about 1/4. So make two candle NO WICKS. One with dye, one without.

Then use a skewer to make hole, then test original wick and then wick up or down. Hope that makes sense!

First try wax without color. Color can change wax dramatically. For new candle maker best to leave uncolored until you know your wax and wicks IMHO. The wick looks too small if you did test burn of three hours. I would try an uncolored candle with bigger wick and one with colored wax and compare. It can tell you a lot of burn characteristics.

I use method for cleaning out test candles, makes it easy to get wax out in bulk.

Parasoyish. Thinking what you were thinking around 755

What is the sort of equal CD8 to premier? 760 ish?

Get a roasting pan, some water low temp oven melt wax dump into container. Scoop out what you need by weight and add fragrance by weight.

Hermes Terre

Hermes Orange Verte

Two amazing fragrances for men.

Not typical.

Orange Verte is unisex

I bought a candle on Etsy, wick died half way in candle. I find them messier than regular wick. Meltpool gets icky.

Premiers are great if you can match with wax. So many sizes!!

Possible cause for tunneling is hidden sinkholes in wax. I had a wax blend that was hunky dory, then I got a bad batch of wax and crater galore. So when candle was lit there was tunneling.

3 months is not long to test.

Been testing for years

Other people will chime in. It takes a long time to know waxes, wick and fragrances, additives. 

Technique going from a couple candles to more.

Some fragrance oils with high vanillin will discolor, also too big a wick will cause wax to do same. Wood wicks can change color of wax.

The answer is this I think. That wax is extremely soft. Two wicks may even be too much. You could try eco .75 two of them, not enough try eco 1, or 1.5. You may need just one wick when that wax is that soft. I’m doing tests on a similar parasoy and yes, tiny wicks.

multiple wicks on soft wax is very hard to do because halfway down the wax is liquid. So either smaller, fewer wicks, or adjust your wax by making it harder by adding some soy like 415 wax to modify. You could try 10-15 percent see if you still get the adhesion but it would help with wicking

The answer is this I think. That wax is extremely soft. Two wicks may even be too much. You could try eco .75 two of them, not enough try eco 1, or 1.5. You may need just one wick when that wax is that soft. I’m doing tests on a similar parasoy and yes, tiny wicks.

multiple wicks on soft wax is very hard to do because halfway down the wax is liquid. So either smaller, fewer wicks, or adjust your wax by making it harder by adding some soy like 415 wax to modify. You could try 10-15 percent see if you still get the adhesion but it would help with wicking.

I second this. Presto pots are great even without spout. I would suggest you get one and then get a presto griddle to keep pot at temp in case it cools. There is a small one called Liddell Griddle and has same temp control as the presto pot. Press to pots are very handy as they have temp dial where as hot plates. Many have just warm, hot settings whatever that means.

You will need a good scale. I get my scales at Old Will Knotts. They have good pricing.

I would say get a prestopot. You can make one yourself but honestly having priced out the materials for just one, buying is better. There are some large ones, but without knowing what amount of wax you want to melt.

You can use them if they are not too speckled. It’s usually from fragrances in vanilla, but can also be from butter and oils you might use that have gone rancid. Much like DOS in soap. Best to use non vanilla fragrances and stable long lived oils in bath bombs.

If you are not using wicks you will get a circular crack on cooldown. It can change with a wick, though C3 is famous for circular crack unless blended with paraffin.

Hmmm having issues as well but its a parasoy blend 464. Now this happening to me last year with cracks in middle of candle upon lighting.

Same technique BUT recently ordered wax and I am afraid that condensation in bag is an issue with the winter candles. All fine until I ordered wax when it got cooler. Damp boxes. Anyone thoughts on this or experiencing the same?

My studio is clean as if I don’t keep it together during holiday making and shipping it’s trouble.

My house though is a disaster. Everything is piled up because I haven’t had time to clear. Haha literally looking at pile

of stuff while I write this!

I work with wax with things other than candles, as TT said if you have different components in the wax you can get that look in wax.

Take that candle you posted a photo of and try heat gunning it. I have balm that always does this cooling but after it solidifies,I heat gun and it’s perfect. My product is a combo of a high melt wax and low melt and they cool different times in cooling process.

Nature of shea butter.You may have to change your technique because of the time of year to reduce that. Or try different batch of shea butter, or modify your formula. Are you using additive at 5% per cent weighed in formula?

70 per cent is better at sanitizing than 91 per cent. It’s isopropyl at drugstore.

Okay I hope you are using a scale for everything related to candles! Take your jar and place on scale as above hit the TARE button, this will take weight to ZERO. NOW get some water and fill your jar up to where you want to fill the wax in it. That will tell you how much you need.

Most 9 ounce jars below the thread will be 6.25 - 6.50 plus fragrance.

If you jar says 4 ounces, you wont calculate for that as that would fill the entire jar! That’s why you’re getting left over wax. 

Or fill heavy duty slider bag, cut corner off to disperse. After filling rap jars to knock bubble out. Spill clean up with a paper towel soaked with 70 per cent alcohol.