Cetacea

A full pallet of jars just in testing and you are not even close to being finished? That's a lot. Its not the quantity of your testing its the quality of it that counts. You can sit and test a cruddy pallet of jars 24/7/365 but if you don't know what components are leading to your problem you are no closer to solving it and quite frankly just tossing money down the drain. I'd suggest you scrap what you have done and start again. Obviously you missed a couple of steps and just tossed it all into a jar, lit it and are wondering if it will work. Learning HOW to create a candle that will burn correctly each and every time is where the bulk of your time and effort should be, not in the creation itself. JMO but I think you are thinking of this all wrong. This is not the mud on the wall scenario (if you toss enough mud on a wall some will stick), this is a precise craft that involves art AND science. If you are not willing to do the science then you will not be able to produce any art.

pull it out of the bath, remelt and try again. If you try to fix it, it will look horrid....trust me. HTH.

Ok look, I'm not getting into a pissing contest with you. BUT you have been around long enough to know how to do a search. When I did a search for this VERY topic, I got 12 pages of results.

I'm just going to say this and jump if you want, but this topic has been discussed NUMEROUS times, if you would just run a search you will find out all the information you need.

Here ya go: Candle and Soap Suppliers by State

Last year several people were having problems with J223, me included. I seem to remember everyone concluding it was a bad batch. Sinkholes, smoking, drowing out in FO's where it didn't before..that sort of thing. AND it was alot softer than the previous batches. I don't remember all the places people got the batch but I got mine from Candlewic. Since then this is the first time I've heard anything bad about J223. HTH

Solid Beeswax pillars are wonderful, once you get them wicked correctly! LOL. Use square braided wicks and you will have to up the size by at least 2 from any wicking chart (they use paraffin for the guidelines). Give you an example, I tested a size 3, 4, 5 & 6 for a 3" pillar. The size #6 worked the best but the chart I referenced said to use a size #2. Testing is imperitaive when it comes to solid beeswax. AND you need to test every lot you get, because no 2 hives produce the exact same wax. And to go further, no 1 hive will produce the same exact wax in the same year or even years due to the varieties of food the bees eat. Faith: Unless you want to change your wicking, keep the solid beeswax mix less than 30% with container wax. I use J223/beeswax mix with zinc wicks (just up the size of the wick for my containers) at less than 30%. Over 30% and I had massive wicking problems. HTH.

I use it all the time. Makes great votives and tarts....actually am experimenting with pillars..what the hell? Its just a straight paraffin and as such it needs additives for it to do much. I add beeswax to mine.

solid or blended with another wax? I've yet to find a container (other than a tin) of solid beeswax and have it burn perfectly. Pillars are another story.....LOL.

Di didn't post it in this thread, I did. And WE'VE already hashed this before...or don't you remember??? LMAO.

GASP! Like that's never happened before on this board....LMFAO!!! And not completely off topic....debating the statement that soy reduces our dependency on crude oil.

Honestly, I haven't figured out HOW candles do this! You still use energy to make them (most likely that energy is produced by the burning of fossil fuels). I bet if you total up the amount of crude oil used to actually make the wax and produce a candle from that wax it won't amount to a hill of beans even at mass production estimates. Also, don't forget that paraffin wax is NOT just precipitated for candle wax, there are a TON of uses for it that soy wax just can not do (at this time). Almost everything we buy or package has a paraffin wax coating. Candle wax is simply a cash cow when compared to the other uses that it has. If we really want to reduce our dependancy on crude oil then we need to start to carpool, use public transportation, build better and more efficient engines and start transporting the bulk of goods on trains rather than semi trucks (of course investing in the magnetic monorail first). And the BIGGIE: STOP USING PLASTIC GROCERY BAGS. Don't forget that plastic, that wonderful stuff we depend on, is made from petroleum. And plastic bags are NOT EASILY RECYCLABLE...which is why they are sent BACK to the bag maker and why you can not put them outside with your other plastic items. Its amazing how much we use petroleum in our daily lives isn't it? So instead of dissing crude oil and tossing in that negative attitude, we might want to think differently and start PROTECTING it by being responsible instead of just using it like there is no end and looking for another venue to exploit. Ok off my soapbox.

Sorry I don't agree. You need to read this report from the EPA: http://www.epa.gov/ord/NRMRL/Publications/600R-01-001%20Chapter%204.pdf In that report are the ACTUAL, quanitifiable numbers for the best case and worst case senario for paraffin and beeswax candles. Pay particular attention to page 10 when it talks about SOOT and how it is formed. Its 18 pages but a well informed read. This is also a good link for how different waxes are produced: http://www.geocities.com/get_scent/waxsection.htm I do like your site. Its easy to navigate and your candles are nice. I'm just giving you some more information for it. HTH

In a simple word....NO. Not ALL oils are safe for candles. Diffuser oils are typically "cut" with a filler...DPG or another that make it possible for them to diffuse into the air easier than just the straight oil. $20/oz is a retail price anyway and is way too expensive for making a candle, especially with a cut oil. Try HERE to find the FO that you like at a much cheaper price and not cut with a diffuser filler.

LMFAO!!!! NO KIDDING! With everything else that goes into making a fantastic candle, why worry about wet spots? Customer's don't notice it anyway, what they do notice is scent throw, burn quality...etc.

Ok lets address this shall we? LOL! If you have a known defect, then DO NOT SELL the product. Fix the defect first. If people WANT the candles tell them you are not ready to sell them BUT you do need testers. They can become a tester by filling out a tester form and sending it back to you. MAKE SURE THEY KNOW THEY ARE NOT GETTING CANDLES FOR FREE WITH NO STRINGS ATTACHED! Wicking problem: Ok so you have mushrooming with zinc. Everyone does. How is the melt pool? Is it wide enough, deep enough, too wide, too deep? Are the mushrooms forming after a long burn? Short burn? Marathon burn? Or do they form the minute you light the candle? Testing requires more than just: Wow this is a nice scent. THERE ARE MANY FACETS THAT NEED TO BE ADDRESSED IN TESTING, NOT JUST SCENT! Have you noticed that your wick mushrooms more with one scent/color than another? Are the carbon mushrooms the result of improper burning (is the candle in a draft...etc) or is it because the wick is too big/small? Can you answer all of these questions? If the answer is NO then you need to start properly testing your product. Order sample packs. Most suppliers have sample packs of wicks that you can buy for relatively little money. Here is a wicking chart that might help you decide which wicks to start with: http://www.candlewic.com/candle-wicks/pop-spools.asp Pricing: Pricing is key. Your original post stated that it costs you $2.14 to make each candle and you are selling them for $4. That means you are not making any money. You need to figure into your cost: taxes, shipping, time..etc. Give yourself a salary in figuring your costs and calculate that salary into your costs, otherwise you are selling yourself short like you are now. Once you have an adjusted cost multiply that by 3 for retail and 2 for wholesale (typical pricing). If you want to go more expensive then multiply it by 4 for retail. Whatever you do I will state it again...FIX YOUR WICKING PROBLEM BEFORE YOU COLLECT MONEY!!! NOT ONLY CAN YOU BE SUED BY YOUR "FRIENDS", YOU ARE NOT BEING A RESPONSIBLE CANDLEMAKER. So what if people are pressuring you to buy candles.....YOU know they are not right, so why the hell are you selling them? WHY do you want the stress? Make those people TESTERS rather than CUSTOMERS until you find the right wicking combination that you are happy with and can stand behind 100%.

Your local kitchen store. Depending on how large is large. Outlet malls carry stores like this that are handy for tart molds and bath bomb makers. HTH.

Depends on the diameter of the tart mold for your wick. Here's a good wicking chart for you: http://www.candlewic.com/candle-wicks/pop-spools.asp Make sure before you order wicks if the mold you are going to use will even allow for a floating candle. Stick one of your tarts in water and see if it floats. If it doesn't, you will need a floater mold.

"Hot"--That depends on your wax/wick/FO%/color combo and the big one, if the candle is in a draft. Remember that burn rates on wicking charts are not set in stone. A lot depends on how much FO you use, how much coloring and what size container or mold. Just because a chart indicates a hotter burn rate doesn't necessarily mean that the wick will perform better.

Same here. If it is, the MP is ~134 degrees and it needs additives to get it to do much. Great for votives though with some stearine or vybar. HTH.

June 9th is friday. JMO but perhaps your sister in law would be better off just buying the centerpeices from a store rather than you trying to get a mold, perfect the wicking/wax combo and create something beautiful in less than 7 days.

I have. Cleared out a ton of inventory too... Just make sure you list Garage Sale and CRAFTS. Do not undersell your stuff either. If you just want to get rid of last season's scents at a discounted price, only put those out. If you want to sell this season's...then just put those out. Don't mix the two...especially at a garage sale. 1 big thing; make sure your candles are slightly apart from the garage sale items. Visually make a seperation, people will get the hint and not try to talk you down on a candle sale. HTH, good luck!

What to bring: Bags. Bags. And more Bags. Paper bags to keep containers from clunking together and plastic for people to carry. Always bring 3X more than you think you will need. Water, Gatorade, Decaf Ice Tea and FOOD. Bring a cooler and fill it to the brim to stay hydrated (which will decrease tiredness at the end of the day). If you are doing an outdoor show in the summer freeze a bottle of water the night before, by the time you are ready to drink it the ice will have melted and you will have clear cool water. Bring healthy food, lets face it most craft shows have only greasy fried foods to eat....now is a good time to catch up on those servings of veggies. Something to work on! Bring anything crafty or learn a new craft such as crochet, knitting...etc. Don't bring anything that you can't put down in a hurry and pick back up again. Craft shows make wonderful "catching up on that project" time when its slow. Good Attitude. Even if you are not feeling at the top of your game, smile and be courteous.What NOT to bring: Already mentioned; but your kids. Lets face it, most craft shows involve a lot of down time especially if there is an event going on at the same time. Books. Believe it or not, I've seen more people lose customers because they've got their noses in books even when its slow. Pets. Like kids they get bored, and not everyone is going to want to be greeted by "fluffy". Bad Attitude. Even if the show is slow, you are stuck next to or close to another crafter with the same stuff or you are just not having a good day...leave the attitude at home. Your customer's really don't care and don't want to hear it.What to do at a show: Be alert and attentive to your customers. Answer questions with a smile, even though you've answered the same question a zillion times in the last 15 minutes. Total, Collect, Give Change and Bag Quickly! Once customer's have made their selection, they want to get the heck out of dodge. Oblige them as fast as you can. Do not let 1 customer monopolize on your time. ALL of us have experienced "Lonely Mona" who wants to tell you all about her (insert pets, kids, grandkids...etc.). Smile, thank her kindly for coming in and then ask her directly if she is particularly interested in one item. If she says NO, direct her to all your scents and ask that she look around. Greet each customer and say Thank You to each customer...even if they didn't buy anything. Thanks for looking is always a good answer as they are leaving. If you smoke; don't in your booth. Most people will chain smoke during a craft show and are normally under their tent. Customer's want to smell your scents, not an ashtray...so scope out a designated smoking spot just for you and go there to have a cigarette. If you think about it like you are at work (with regular breaks) its easier not to be coughing up a storm by the time you go home. Be courteous to the crafters around you. That means don't hog all the space (if you are lucky enough to have a bit of extra space), don't spread into their space and if you bring music keep it LOW. Walk around the show. This gives you a chance to get out of your booth for some much needed movement and also to greet other vendors. If you are alone, leave a sign saying that you will be back at such and such time. If you are lucky and have help take turns walking the show. Just like "Lonely Mona" don't let another crafter take up all your time. If you run into another chandler or B&B or Soap person its great to exchange ideas but don't monopolize their time and don't let them do the same to you. Nothing is more boring to people outside your craft than to hear 2 people carrying on incessantly. Finally: DO NOT SABOTAGE ANY SIMILAR CRAFTER!!!!!! The minute you start talking bad about the other vendor to a customer YOUR credibility is completely lost. NOBODY wants to hear how bad the other guy is...that negative energy will kill a sale. Instead highlight the positive aspects of your product without negativity towards the other vendors.

Ditto on NG's...best I've come across...