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Cetacea

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Everything posted by Cetacea

  1. LMFAO!!! I'm sorry, that is just too funny. Oleoscience isn't even a word. I think you were trying to create a "scientific" term using oleic acid. You mean polymorphic right? Polymorphism is a general term to describe something that has a tendency to have many states depending on temperature and pressure. Poly meaning many and morphic meaning state. In Chemistry its a compound that has 2 distinct crystalline structures. In Biology the simplest example is a frog, it changes states during its lifetime--i.e. tadpol to frog. You are quite mistaken. I have absolutely no problem with anyone learning more about their products. I have a problem with someone setting themselves up as an "expert" by tossing around seemingly important words in order to make themselves appear bigger than they really are. If the mods want to delete this, go right ahead, but I think you should leave the definitions.
  2. I have a problem with comparing soy wax to chocolate. The two are not alike in any way. Again, like apples and oranges...they both have similar properties but they are distinctly different. As for people just starting out, telling them they have to "temper" their wax because its like chocolate is ridiculous. As with anything related to candlemaking its not rocket science, don't make it harder than it needs to be.
  3. Actually with chocolate its to encourage the crystalline structure due to the milk fats added in....there are numerous studies on polymorphic transitioning in chocolate, I suggest you run a google search and read the abstracts. And I'll say it again, wax is not chocolate. Consistantly drawing the parallel between soy wax and chocolate is like comparing apples to oranges. They may both be polymorphic but since that is a general term that has various meanings depending on what science you are discussing suffice to say; veggie oils are not the same. Even soy wax is not a solid soy oil since it is blended with other oils to keep it stable (like cottonseed oil). Constant heating/cooling the wax is part of the candle making process for those of us that melt more than a single batch at a time. Doing it deliberately for 1 batch is a waste of time when you aren't heating it to a high temperature in the first place (high temp being relative to what manufacturers do and what we do). And since soy generally speaking has a lower pouring temp than paraffin or beeswax, why heat your wax so high in the first place? If you pour between 100-140 F why in the world would you heat to beyond 180? It doesn't take 20 odd miutes to add FO, dye and pour. Especially container candles. IMO and to answer the orginal question: constant heating and cooling happens especially in a turkey fryer. If you want to call it tempering and keep a chart as to how many times the wax has melted, that's up to you. But I like streamlined processes and when I pour its to produce an entire line not a single batch. I personally don't have the time to play around and treat my wax with kidd gloves. If I have to fiddle with wax like Stella is suggesting, I ditch it because I'd never get anything done and I don't have the money to waste if the wax has been "tempered" too many times.
  4. Still doesn't make any sense to heat and cool your wax repeatedly. If what you are trying to avoid is the crystalline structure, repeated heating and cooling isn't going to do it, all its going to do is repeatedly change the phase from liquid to solid, not solve anything. Pour at a cooler temperature rather than "shock" the wax by pouring hot and cooling fast to reduce bloom. It isn't rocket science, why make it harder than it should be? Polymorphic transitioning is something that is taken care of by the wax companies. Unless you are making your own wax, what is the point? ETA: Customers are going to repeatedly light the candle anyway, heating and cooling the wax as the candle burns down.
  5. why would you do this?? Wax is not chocolate.
  6. Triple strength is a marketing term...nothing more. It came about when oils were typically used at 2% concentration. When waxes that could hold 6-10% oil hit the market the marketing ploy of "triple scented" started. It refers to the % of the FO used. If you use the now standard 6% you are "triple scented". HTH
  7. My favorite is when you hear "ONLY essential oils" in lieu with All Natural and then you see Amish Friendship Bread. Now I ask ya, how many Amish Friends did they squeeze to get that essential oil? LMAO.
  8. Thanks Chris, I thought it was up. I'm writing that down this time. LMAO.
  9. Ok for some reason I lost the information link and can't remember--of course I never wrote it down..duh. Do you go up or down in square braid for dripless? I think its up, but damned if I can remember. When I tested before, I tested 2 of the same sized wicks from different companies and of course wrote--"next test check the info site for up or down". Yeah, I like to shoot myself in the foot while banging my head against the wall. LMAO. Help! TIA
  10. I got a bad batch about 2 years ago. The top slabs were fine, the bottom slabs were terrible....I ended up tossing the bottom slabs and ordering a new case.
  11. Press and Seal Wrap? Or you could go all out and get boxes for the product. That way you have your sample out and the rest safely tucked away in boxes behind the sample. Also saves time on having to wrap the glass when the customer buys one.
  12. I prefer J223 just based on the smell of the wax when its melted. 4630 seemed to have an odd smell. For my wax mix, J223 had the better cold and hot throw than 4630. Also seemed to color a little easier. HTH Candlewic is cheaper than C&S on wax.
  13. Double wrap it in a garbage bag, place on concrete and hammer the crap out of it.
  14. What's the diameter? I'm unfamiliar with this jar.
  15. Its called a double boiler. Get an old pot, fill it with water enough to just float your pour pot and set it to boil. Once the water gets going turn it down to a rolling boil, place your pour pot in the water and it shouldn't take long to melt the wax. HTH
  16. 2/0 for anything under an inch to inch and a half diameter...then you might want to switch to 1/0 for anything bigger (i.e....2 sheets or more). HTH
  17. 2 things: 1.) Let it cure at least 2 days (give the wax time to cool all the way). 2.) Go sniff some coffee beans or go outside for 20 minutes to clear your nose. Flicker is right, wax is a sponge....it will only hold so much FO before it starts to seep. I'd stick to 8% if you are getting a great hot throw and its burning correctly and just let it sit for a few days then sniff with a clear nose for cold throw. I find the longer my candles sit the stronger the cold throw....and lets face it, if a customer can't smell it when they pick it up you can explain all day how great it smells burning but they will put it right back down. HTH
  18. Is Hobby Lobby in Phx.? I left so long ago I probably wouldn't be able to find my way from the airport to Tempe anymore....LMAO
  19. I use Candles and Supplies dye blocks and have no problems with their orange. If yours is still peachy, try adding a touch of yellow, red and a tiny bit of brown. If you are looking for a florescent or close use more yellow. To get a true black you need liquid dye. HTH
  20. I use only botanicals in my bath teas (they can also be used as sachets) and typically sell out pretty fast, especially in winter. Just toss the teabag under running water, steep and then gently squeeze out the water to use again until all the scent is gone.
  21. LOVE their stuff! I use the foaming glycerin gel and order bottles from her all the time. They are friendly, fast and have great products. HTH.
  22. Rubbing alcohol should take it right off....if not, use Goo-Gon that stuff is magic
  23. It shouldn't be a problem unless its flaking. If its just worn through, I've used one like that for years without any problems. HTH
  24. Crisco is better left in the kitchen cabinet with your baking stuff, all it does is throw black smoke and smell like burning hair. J223 is a pre-blended wax, just like J50. If you want to add something to improve the scent throw (pretty hard to do with J223) then add a natural wax of some kind--soy, beeswax...etc. You will have to figure out %'s. For wetspots, lower your pouring temp. I pour J223 around 155 degrees. Crisco doesn't do anything for wetspots anyway, all it does is clog the wick. I would look more at your Pumpkin Spice FO percentage. I'm not quite sure but I think J223 can hold up to 15% FO. I'd start adding more FO or letting the candle cure a bit before experimenting with adding cooking products. Also look at your wicking. There might be the problem too. You might be slightly underwicked and therefore your throw is not as good. HTH
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