![](http://content.invisioncic.com/r248437/set_resources_23/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
7Angela7
-
Posts
505 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Blogs
Downloads
Posts posted by 7Angela7
-
-
I couldn't think of a title to explain what my question was. I use mals-e cart, their premium account and using rate calculators from UPS & USPS. I know approximately how many of which products will fit into a flat rate box, but I can't really tell the cart that. So for now, it's just quoting USPS priority rates which look really high if you were a customer. About 4 jars plus extra little products, such as votives/tarts, etc. will fit in a flat rate, but mals does not have any limitations on it such as the weight. I really do want to offer flat rate, but I'm concerned with paying a whole lot out of my own pocket. For instance, let's say I'm lucky & have a customer who orders 3 jars, 2 pillars, 2 tart burners, and they pay $7.70 for flat rate. Well since those are bulky items, they will not fit in a flat rate box & I'll probably end up paying about $10 out of my own pocket to ship it. I kinda don't like the idea of just putting a message on the site stating that if it fits into a flat-rate box I'll ship that way & refund the difference, because as a customer, I'd be a little skeptical. But right now it seems like that may be the only option. Anybody have any thoughts or suggestions on this?
Thanks!
-
How are you selling these - online or like at a craft show where the customer will be there and be able to pick?
-
You want the seams on the top and bottom so use the smallest size you can
Why do you want the seams on top & bottom? Does it make a difference?
-
I have to make text into a photo or else the font on my website won't show up on everyone elses computer. I also don't want to print my own business cards or brochures, and am trying to submit it to a company to print. But the problem with companies is that they do not have my font. I've been trying to make the text into a photo with Adobe Photoshop and have also tried it in Publisher. I just basically use a white background, type out the text & color I need, then crop it right around the text & save it. Photoshop is way too complicated to just play around with, so that was the only way I figured out to do it. The picture looks fine & clear while working within the programs, but once I upload it to the companies website & view it, it becomes blurry. I know others do this & it still comes out clear, so what am I doing wrong?
Thanks!!
-
Have you tried Papermart or Uline? They sell polypro, and to me, they're inexpensive and they sell them in 2,000 bags.
-
Do you use 10% FO load or stick with 6%?
You shouldn't have to use 10% with quality FO. 6% works fine for me, no more than that though.
-
Wow, no more Hopeless??
I preheat my jars with my heat gun, then wrap them in a towel when they cool. I get wet spots here & there.
-
I do both - use pre-tabbed and tab my own. Actually I tab the remainder of the wick after I cut it off. You have the right idea tlc. They aren't hard to do. But just don't crimp it too too tight or else your wick will kinda point to one side.
-
Hi Vickie! Welcome.
-
I use 80/20 too, lol.
I decided to do it because I couldn't really stand the little ripples I got with just a votive wax, and wanted to try to give it a little better throw, if possible.
-
I would get your formulas down and thoroughly test everything before considering selling them. EVERY single FO should be tested in the type of candle you are doing. Also, if you make any changes to your formula, they should be re-tested.
When I started, I tested & tested and finally got it good. Then right after that, I decided I wanted to change my wax AND jar. So basically, I had to start over at square one. It's a PITA but needs to be done. Good luck!
-
With containers, when trying to find the correct wick size, it helps to pour a wickless container. Then with a skewer or something around that size, poke it through the wax in the container to make a hole. Place a wick inside the hole & cut to the correct height. After burning, when you know it's not the correct wick to use, just take the wick out (it helps to do it while the candle is still partially liquid). Then just insert a new wick & test again.
-
It's very simple. I pour at about 165 into tart molds and let cool completely. They sometimes have a little trouble popping out on their own, so I just stick in the fridge for about 10 minutes. That's all there is to it.
-
I agree that with the jar, the scent can only go upward. With the sachets, the scent is smelled all the way around.
-
Just trying to get information for now to post this on my website. How much extra do you charge for private labeling? Also, do you have an intial setup fee?
Thanks!!
-
They may be a bit harder to wick than a round jar, but these really aren't hard to wick, especially compared to others.
-
Peak suggests to pour between 160-180, I usually pour at about 165-170. I always let mine cure for about 5 days, but like Michi, when testing for wick, I would light it up the next day & have gotten a great throw. The throw is better to me after a few days because of candle nose, and also I like to see how many wet spots will appear.
-
No they don't.
-
Very nice! Great job!
-
Fruit Slices
Blackberry Sage
Lemon Pound Cake
Clean Cotton
Juniper Breeze
Starfruit & Mango
Grapefruit
-
Looks interesting. Nice job!
-
Those are awesome!!! I'm sure they smell yummmmmy too!
-
Very pretty!
-
They are going to be a beautiful decoration. Great job!
Hot Wax
in Old Style Candle Gallery
Posted
I'm in CA too, but what part are you in to have 100+ temps right now?
Is the wax still okay though?