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I have my cold throw . Cant get my hot throw.

FO 1 1/2 ounce per pound

Pure soy 50 wax

60-44-18 zinc core wick

I was using size under

12.25 status jar

vybar 1/4 teaspoon per pound

what do i do.

I'd try another wick type and not use the vybar.

Also, if you aren't already, you might want to check to make sure your FO is added at about 185 and stirred about 2 minutes.

ETA: Seeing you have CT it possibly is just a wick issue.

HTH and GL

Edited by jeanie353
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Guest OldGlory

I use 464 which is a soy wax - but I don't use zinc wicks in soy. I use cotton wicks because they burn hotter, specifically Premier wicks.

Can you tell us what your melt pool is like? How long are you test burning?

Edited by OldGlory
reread, saw the container being used.
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Soy candles have to cure for at least a week before they'll throw a scent, and that also gives time for you to recover from candle nose.

Also, some FO's don't work in soy. And, different waxes work better with different FO loads, sometimes too much FO will tie up the scent.

Edited by HorsescentS
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I have my cold throw . Cant get my hot throw.

FO 1 1/2 ounce per pound

Pure soy 50 wax

60-44-18 zinc core wick

I was using size under

12.25 status jar

vybar 1/4 teaspoon per pound

what do i do.

I would start with 1 oz. per pound.

I don't know what pure soy 50 wax is. But if its at least 75% soy, it needs to cure for at least 1 week.

I'm pretty sure zinc wicks don't work well in soy. I would try CD/htp wicks.

Edited by BPP
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I beg to differ...I use EL container and Votive...I don't have to cure a single candle a week to get a throw.. I don't chose a FO that won't throw in my waxes in 2 days.

I used to use HTP wicks and have switched to CD(N)'s..but I started with cotton and paper core wicks, even played with RRD's in soys.

Admittedly, I have not tested any of the soys that have been introduced on the market past C3 when it was brand new.(quite a few years ago) :) So I have no idea what they all act like.

I just speak from over 10 years using EL waxes with nothing added to them for throw help. Just FO...don't even dye them.

I use mostly Candle Cocoon Oils at far less a rate than many. I also use several from Element B&B, ICS and even Oregon Trails. Those I use at 6% tops.

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Paraffin candles don't need a cure but just the same I usually let mine sit for 24 to 48 hours. As far a soy candles and cure times, with the waxes I use (415, 444, and 464), I've never found that curing made any difference with HT. That said, I do let them sit for a week before testing.

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This is from Candle Cocoon:

I have been talking a lot to my different oil manufacturers about candle curing. I have been of the impression that it just isn't necessary. What I found out is that I was right and wrong smile.gif

First, a candle needs to be made properly. If you melt and pour your wax needs to be hot enough to "open up" the molecular bonds of the wax. But not too hot as to burn off scent. (Quality scent is usually more stable and less likely to burn off). Then after your candle has been poured the molecules are still doing a little dance with the wax and scent. It usually takes between 2 days - a week for the dance to slow to a creep (it never stops). At this time most wax and fragrance molecules have "partnered" up and excess fragrance is leaving the candle (Hence the importance of fragrance load!!!)

During the cure period the most unstable portions of the top note will evaporate leaving the true nature of the candle behind. If you burn a candle too early one of two things will happen. 1) The candle molecules have not completed their dance and the candle will appear much weaker then if you burn it a few days later or 2) The candle will seem much stronger because the unstable portions of the top note have not evaporated yet. So, the moral of the story is that as hard as it may be, candles should have at least a 2 day cure period.

Also, low quality scents may need a longer cure time for more of their molecules to dance more. (Really not sure about the science behind this thought. I will have to research more when I get time.)

Hope this answers some questions about curing! It has for me. Of course, I know have more questions.....

Lyschel Candle Cocoon

Edited by ChandlerWicks
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Yes, 2 days...

So in a week if you are not getting any hot throw..there is a problem somewhere. Either the oil itself, or the process of the candle making...

If the wax the OP is using is not throwing anything...something is wrong.

It is possible that she's over loading her wax too....that will sometimes be a problem in proper scent throw..in candles more isn't always better.

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Guest OldGlory
What Co. carries premier wicks.

Aztec carries Premier wicks, and they are really good in 464. You might get a sample pack of the different sizes to test. If you call them, Terri or Sheila can make sure you get what you need. Also, as you know, with the different waxes and wicks and fragrances you really need to test each unique combination, and keep a good chart on the results of each test. Some FOs will require a larger wick for the same wax, same jar, while others will let you use a smaller wick. That's why you have to test them.

Also, I use a fragrance load of 1 oz FO to 1 lb wax 98% of the time. With some FOs I can even use a bit less, like BCNs Peppercorn. It's rare that I use more than 1 oz/1 lb. Keep trying, you'll get it right eventually!

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This is from Candle Cocoon:

I have been talking a lot to my different oil manufacturers about candle curing. I have been of the impression that it just isn't necessary. What I found out is that I was right and wrong smile.gif

First, a candle needs to be made properly. If you melt and pour your wax needs to be hot enough to "open up" the molecular bonds of the wax. But not too hot as to burn off scent. (Quality scent is usually more stable and less likely to burn off). Then after your candle has been poured the molecules are still doing a little dance with the wax and scent. It usually takes between 2 days - a week for the dance to slow to a creep (it never stops). At this time most wax and fragrance molecules have "partnered" up and excess fragrance is leaving the candle (Hence the importance of fragrance load!!!)

During the cure period the most unstable portions of the top note will evaporate leaving the true nature of the candle behind. If you burn a candle too early one of two things will happen. 1) The candle molecules have not completed their dance and the candle will appear much weaker then if you burn it a few days later or 2) The candle will seem much stronger because the unstable portions of the top note have not evaporated yet. So, the moral of the story is that as hard as it may be, candles should have at least a 2 day cure period.

Also, low quality scents may need a longer cure time for more of their molecules to dance more. (Really not sure about the science behind this thought. I will have to research more when I get time.)

Hope this answers some questions about curing! It has for me. Of course, I know have more questions.....

Lyschel Candle Cocoon

Thank you! And that fits with what I've experienced, especially with 4627 paraffin which takes a while to harden up and burn properly, I would say it takes AT LEAST 2 days cure just like Lyschel said. But a week is better, if I can wait that long.

Edited by HorsescentS
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