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adding soy to starburst palm


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If i added 125mp soy to starbust palm at say 10% soy would the starburst pattern remain:laugh2:

I would use this for pillars. As a

Far as wicks go my next wick is csn 20 we will see if that sinks or swims. The 16 is drowding in the pillar. Will need to replace or re melt. But 10 % soy would help the burn. So i would just like to know if anyone has done it.

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I have never had a problem burning or wicking 3" palm wax pillar candles. They work fine with a range from CDN 10-14, depending if one is wicking for complete consumption or to leave a shell. Palm wax does not burn like other waxes. Even if you add more than 10%, palm wax is still going to have the same basic burn characteristics, although the pattern will be impacted.

Palm wax burns easier than soy wax (requires a slightly smaller wick) so I don't see how the burn would be improved by adding a substance that is more difficult to burn.

The crystal pattern changes as one adds soy wax. Another consideration is that heating soy wax to 200°F can cause it to yellow.

I have experimented with mixing soy & palm wax in many difference percentages for different purposes. If you want to know how it performs, you would be best served by testing for yourself. In my experience, there is no benefit to adding soy wax to palm wax for making pillars.

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I once experimented with adding soy to my crystal container palm and discovered that 20% or more and I lose the crystal patterns. It starts "fading" out at around 15-20% of added soy. I would start out with 5-10% and adjust from there. Are you trying to change the burn for wicking purposes? If you try it let us know how it works out.

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If i added 125mp soy to starbust palm at say 10% soy would the starburst pattern remain:laugh2:

I would use this for pillars. As a

Far as wicks go my next wick is csn 20 we will see if that sinks or swims. The 16 is drowding in the pillar. Will need to replace or re melt. But 10 % soy would help the burn. So i would just like to know if anyone has done it.

CSN 14 worked perfect for me in the feather palm pillars that were wicked to intentionally tunnel. HTH

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What the hell am I doing wrong. I use the same wick for the 3 " and all I get is a thick shell so thick you cannot see the glow. I mean I pour at 200. The only wicks that burn with any good results are 45pl CD wicks look the same and are more stable so I will see if i can get it to work that way. All the can wicks drowned. I did not try 20. I did do a 20% soy mix and it came out really neat. But that's a side from the wicking issue.

Everyone said they use this wick or that wick but they don't work for me, what the hell!!!

I don't mind the tunneling but I like seeing the glow as the flame drops into the candle.:angry2:

Edited by Gbhunter
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GB. Here is a photo of a layered 3" palm wax pillar I made & wicked with a CDN 12. Notice the glow. If the candle is dyed a daark color, the glow is less. If it is a very light color, the glow is more. This burned down perfectly and left a 3/8" shell.

lavender_stripey1.jpg

Here is another at the beginning of a burn. It has more "glow" because it is a lighter color.

lemonlavender4.jpg

Those are both starburst pillar palm wax with 1 Tbsp. palm stearic acid PP and wicked with CDN 12. HTH

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certainly appears you have the wicking of these down pat!!
For 3" palm pillars, I have found what works for me. Now when I tried to triple wick a heart pillar, my first efforts failed miserably - all down the front of the television and onto the floor!! ROTFLMAO But I did learn from that and have that worked out that mold since then (and I finally got all the wax scraped off the television, entertainment center, rug and floor). It just takes consistent testing and a little patience.
Stella - PLEASE stop making me want to try Palm!!!
I didn't do nuttin'...:whistle:

2010-01-30019.jpg

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OMG Stella - my DH is going to want to choke you!!! Those are friggin fabulous!! Sorry OP - didn't mean to hyjack the thread - but OMG!!

edit - CRAP! Now I have hours of reading to do - checked only 2 suppliers and the info about how to "do" palm wax is SO different! :confused::laugh2:

Edited by ksranch
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OMG Stella - my DH is going to want to choke you!!! Those are friggin fabulous!! Sorry OP - didn't mean to hyjack the thread - but OMG!!

edit - CRAP! Now I have hours of reading to do - checked only 2 suppliers and the info about how to "do" palm wax is SO different! :confused::laugh2:

Which suppliers, lol? I found one supplier's instructions today to be way off the beaten path of everyone else....

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I found one supplier's instructions today to be way off the beaten path of everyone else....

I don't know what y'all read, but pouring palm wax pillars is pretty straightforward. Once you get the hang of it, then you can try other techniques (layers, tilted pillars, etc.) to produce different effects. Palm wax is very cool with which to work because it does different things at different temps. In the layered candle above, I poured on the cool side and got no crystalization. In the tilted pillar & votives, I poured at different temps so some parts are plain and others are crystallized.

My apologies to GB for the hijack... back to the subject at hand...

I did find some pics of one of my soy/palm wax pillars burning... it was pretty but soy wax pillars have a tendency to "bloom" outward, and that property carried over to the blend. I didn't like the "bloomin' onion" look... The edges kinda bloomed outward and then split and cracked off rather than thinning and melting completely as palm with no soy would have done. HTH

Edited by Stella1952
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My brain cannot even begin to comprehend how to begin something like this... They are beautiful and my curiousity even more in the "palm" world!:eek:

Now how about for containers...does this crystalizing palm mixed with soy make for a pretty candle or is this strictly for pillars?

off to read on palm

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When I mixed in just a little, it changed the crystal pattern to something that looked like snakeskin... more caused the crystals to only form a little bit here and there; even more and they disappeared...

As far as mixing for containers - you'll just have to put on your lab coat and give it a whirl. There are TONS of project ideas in the archives...

http://www.candletech.com/techniques-and-ideas/

...which can be adapted to palm wax.

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Those are about 6" tall - the layered one may have been taller... I can't see if there is sand in the bottom of the hurricane in the picture, but I think there is...

I think you mentioned somewhere that you were adding a lot of stearic acid and it made the wax more opaque... A lot of dye causes the same thing... I don't use a lot of stearic - just enough to aid with mold release and help prevent cracking. I addd too much stearic acid once when I was messing around with a formula for hurricanes and it looked like plastic or styrofoam. VERY dead, ugly looking mixture that was...

Palm wax is hard on wicks... I have used square braid in my art mold candles, but it does not burn as well as the CDN wicking does.

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My sample pack was CD 6,8,10,16,18,20. Mu candles may have too much dye. Also my double boiler can only do 195° Max. So i our then. I love the ceystals.

GB.....I'm pretty new to palm myself. Did use only one 55 lb bag of palm so far. I did mainly lighter candles but a few were a burgundy color which did show through the illumination from the wick. The lighter ones showed much better.

You might be on the right direction with the too much dye though. Seeing your double boiler goes to 195 max, if you can get your wax that hot to add the FO, and then pour, it should still give you a good pattern. I used feathered palm so there might be a difference but give it a whirl and see what happens. This candle/business hobby can be sooo frustrating at times.

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I am new to palm also, but every csn wick I have used in 3" & 4" have burned perfectly. Until I decided to try a dye chip instead of liquid! The dye chip did not fully dissolve which I couldn't see until I nearly had all of it poured. I thought with the higher temp wax it would disolve much quicker. It just had little granules left and it settled on the bottom of the mold, making the top of the candle darker than the rest. The flame went out once and I have had to pour out wax just to keep it burning. So the dye may be your issue.

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The wick got clogged by the granuals and it stopped wicking up fresh wax. I think here we have two different ways that we were burning palm. Stella made them to leave a nice shell. Where I on the other hand like the glow, but once the flame goes low wan the shell to slowly collapse inwards. The 45 ply wick does that in my candles but its good information to know if I ever want a shell I can use the cd12.

Stella is a great resourse of info and I for one thank this person for helping out so much.

Edited by Gbhunter
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