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C3 & ht


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In ht testing stages now...I'm using 6% fo, heat wax to 185*, add dye, remove from heat and add fo at 170-stirring constantly until pour using Peaks and CS for fo's and letting them cure 2 weeks before testing ( CDN and Premier wicks)...although CT is amazing the HT is not where I would like it to be...is there an additive to use for C3 to help it carry a higher % fo load (personal preference to strong ht) suggestions? I'm using 16 oz canning jars but have also tested in 20oz straight sided wm jars...

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Which FOs, not all will throw well but your CT suggestion that is may not be the problem. I recently had an tester with a known good FO in my system that didn't throw. Dropping down one wick size fixed it. I was burning off the FO in the flame and not letting it escape from the melt pool. I see this with some Slatkin candles, feeble flame but good melt pool and HT, analogous to melts, you don't really need the flame.

Also, the is no additive that I know of that improves HT unless it's something to tame the flame.

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good morning rjdaines and thank you...I've been testing CS Cranberry Marmalade and Peaks Amish Harvest. I was wondering if UA would help (USA is only available from 1 supplier that I've found and shipping is just too much)..tia...I'll be retesting wick sizes this coming week-waiting on some CDN's icon11.png

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good morning rjdaines and thank you...I've been testing CS Cranberry Marmalade and Peaks Amish Harvest. I was wondering if UA would help (USA is only available from 1 supplier that I've found and shipping is just too much)..tia...I'll be retesting wick sizes this coming week-waiting on some CDN's icon11.png

I have not tried either of those FOs but it seems that Amish Harvest gets good reports for throw. I also don't use C3 but the principal should apply.

Evaluate your melt pool size and depth. A too efficient wick (high ROC) will burn off wax too fast and produce a small MP, while a system that gets too hot will have a great HT and a huge melt pool but will be an unsafe candle. It's all a balancing act that changes, especially with different FOs.

Good Luck

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Amish Harvest gets good reports for throw
It also has a reputation for causing chandlers to pull out their hair trying to get it to work. ;)

Not every FO throws equally in C3 (or any other wax). There is no additive I have used that enhances HT appreciably in C3. Some chandlers are willing to do lots of extra wick testing to find a wick that will work in problem FOs. I am not among them. Either the FO works in my system or I find a new supplier for that FO or I just move on to one of the thousands of FOs I have not yet tried. I don't care if a FO is the hottest scent of the season - if it doesn't work well in the system I use, it goes on the "dud" shelf, either to use in tarts, mix or forget about. At some point, all the testing and minute adjustments become time wasters, IMHO. I am a stubborn woman but I am not going to perform back flips to force a persnickity FO oil to work. There are too many pleasing FOs out there for me to try and which work well in my system to worry about the ones which don't. There are only a few FOs that I will even give an extra week's cure time (ambers). If it doesn't work well in a week, it's time for this woman to move on. My goal is to make the best burning & smelling candles for me to sell, not to spend my life in the testing lab. At some point, like any manufacturer, one has to pay attention to time & money as practical issues. If you offset the number of those problem FOs you will sell against the amount of time, materials and wear & tear on your last nerve it took you to get them from testing into production, they just are not worth it.

My advice is "know when to say when" and move on.

Edited by Stella1952
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Thanks for the input...Next week I'll be testing the CDN 12s and 14s (been testing the 16s in 16oz) and try the less is more theory. I was wondering tho if the UA can be used in C3...it's more readily available and shipping from the 1 supplier with USA is too much. Since I've changed my pour temp I've had great results with the tops and no wet spots :yay:but I'm still not there with the wicking-and I'm in total agreement with finding just 1 wick for 1 jar for most fo's-just have to find the darn one :mad: Update...just called Peaks and they informed me that UA is not to be used with soy or C3...so new ?...Does USA help increase the fo load in C3?

Edited by lmc
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UA (universal additive) is for paraffin; USA (universal soy additive) is for soy. I think there are three suppliers who carry USA, at last count... The stuff that used to be available was distilled veggie monoglycerides - I think ADM made it... When I buy it, I try to buy a large amount as it is difficult to source. It doesn't help with HT, but it does improved the stability of the wax somewhat over not using it at all.

If you want to test other substances for this purpose, soy lecithin (C3 already contains this) would be an option as well as veggie oils. I haven't seen any appreciable improvement in C3 with crystal stability or HT with coconut oil, but other oils may offer better results.

C3 responds well to tempering so there really isn't any huge compelling reason to augment the ingredients it already contains for stability. And it's wise to remember that it seems that the more stable the soy is, the more temperamental it becomes about HT so one has to tread carefully to not improve the texture so much that the HT goes down the tubes.

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I'm pretty satisfied with how the C3 looks and behaves now so I don't want to add anything more for those reasons...just want to know how to increase the fo load. Maybe I just need to wait till I can get new testers made w/ the CDNs and try a few different fo's and go from there :confused:

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Hi lmc..

I use C3 ( for myself) I always temper my wax. Then I heat to 200* then add my fo @ 190* and stir,stir, stir and pour @ 165*. I use CD wicks and I use HTP wicks..depending on the jar and fo. I used to use the 11oz. tumblers and always got by with a HTP 105. The larger jars I always double wicked with the CD's. I used jars I had bought from BC quite a while ago, they look like Yan****'s tumblers. I generally got by double wicking those jars with CD 10's....12's made the jar too hot. I don't sell anymore but I will always make candles for myself and family and friends. Good luck.

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Thanks for the advice...Kimmeroo, I usually add fo between 150 (citrus) and 170*-so I'll test adding fo at a slightly higher temp and see if that helps... Stella, that helped...I do not want to add more than 8.5% (1oz to 12oz per jar) but was wondering if just upping the fo would give me that dreaded cottage cheese thing again lol...lower pour temps and a little CO has really helped with that and the look of the candle. I'll get it one of these days...if I don't pull my hair out first!

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8.5% of 12 oz. is 1.02 oz. 1.5 oz. PP is 9.375%

Whether the FO will play nice with your candle system depends on the FO itself. I have a few favorites that are bigtime frosters, so I have to go through some extra back flips to use them... These particular ones are not available from any other supplier, soooo... I make the extra effort for those few, but in most cases, if a FO frosts badly or doesn't throw well, but I like it, I try the same scent from a couple of different sources to see if theirs gives me the same amount of trouble.

Do try heating C3 to 180°-190°F, add prewarmed (~120°F) FO & dye, stir down to 165°F and pour.

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