Dana Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Is there an additive or wax I can use that will give a full mp in this diameter jar? I am working with 6006 and even a HTP 126 will not quite give a full mp. CD 22 burns wild and flickering (can't stand that). I am trying 1Tbls of Crisco pp and another with 1 Tbls of CO pp and it doesn't seem to make much difference in the burn. What else can I try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertgibbens Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 For something that big, I will always double wick it. The torch you get by using a large enough wick to melt that diameter is enough to weld steel with!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Since 6006 is a parasoy, my results with 4630 may not mean much but I can use LX 28 or HTP 1212 on that size container. I am not looking for a large and deep liquid melt pool however. A thin layer of wax is left along the sides until the candle reaches the mid way point at which time the material along the side melts and flows down. Trying to wick it like soy makes for a too hot candle with a really big flame. The other choice (as the previous poster said) is to double wick, maybe two CD5s or CD6s. When I have tried to do that with 6006 I ended up with a black sooty mess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Yes, I know about "The Torch", that is what I got from the CD 22 and Eco wicks. Even with that huge flame I didn't get a full mp. Definately don't want to double wick. So I guess I am going to use these zincs. The flame is nice and although I get a thin film around the widest part of the jar I still get a pretty good throw and it does melt down when it burns to the bottom 1/3. Just thought I'd ask in case there was something out there that someone stumbled across that helped. I don't really know yet though if the CO or Crisco is helping much, I don't seem to see a real significant difference and with CO being kinda pricey, would rather not have to add it. I only added 1 Tbls pp though. Maybe more would do it. Anyone else try 2 Tbls. pp with good results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I have added 1 to 2 tbls of CO to 464 for trying to control frosting, in which it failed. It did not appear to help with MP or HT either. In terms of reported melting temps, comparing 6006 to 4630 and 4627, both of the latter waxes have lower MP; almost 10 degrees for 4627. Whether the user would see that in an actual candle I don't know. There are also 100% soy waxes that are formulated to give a faster melt pool like GB464 (115-120), mixing in this or similar wax might bring down you melt point. I've seen 85% 6006 and 15% soy recommended. I tried it but found that it aggravated shrinkage and gave me voids within the candle that killed the wick. Not willing to poke and second pour, I gave up on the project.So I guess my point is, while one can add ingredients to a wax the outcomes may not be predictable or achieve what you want. I'd focus on wicking (double or otherwise) the wax you like and accept how it burns (full MP vs. not full MP). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 CD 22 burns wild and flickeringThat size wick is too large. Try a CD 16-18. I think the 16 will work. Leave out the Crisco and CO - with a parasoy, why in the world would you use those additives? That's just overloading the wax with oil for no useful purpose. You didn't mention how much FO you are using... start with 1 oz. PP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) That size wick is too large. Try a CD 16-18. I think the 16 will work. Leave out the Crisco and CO - with a parasoy, why in the world would you use those additives? That's just overloading the wax with oil for no useful purpose. You didn't mention how much FO you are using... start with 1 oz. PP.Yes, that is why it was flickering and wild. A CD 16 would not come close. I started with a CD 18 and went up from there. I added the CO and Crisco to ease the burn since I couldn't wick up anymore. That was my purpose of adding those additives as stated in the earlier post. I am using the Whisper jar and much of the heat gets lost since there is not much "neck" to speak of. Just as the candle burns down and you get more depth to hold in the heat, the jar gets wider. It finally burns clean the last 1/4 but I am trying to get a full mp all during the candle. I am using 1.25 to 1.3 oz fo, so not over loading.... Edited October 23, 2011 by Dana Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I am trying to get a full mp all during the candle It's not reasonable to think you can have a FMP at the beginning and the candle not get too hot as it burns down into the container where the heat is greater.I use a CDN 14 in a 3" diameter widemouth canning jar. I can sometimes back that down to a 12, depending on the FO. Those additives may be too much. Try the CD 18 without all the extra stuff and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 It's not reasonable to think you can have a FMP at the beginning and the candle not get too hot as it burns down into the container where the heat is greater.I use a CDN 14 in a 3" diameter widemouth canning jar. I can sometimes back that down to a 12, depending on the FO. Those additives may be too much. Try the CD 18 without all the extra stuff and see how it goes.Maybe I didn't explain very well, lol. I am not getting a full melt pool at the beginning either because (I think) there is no "neck" to help hold in the heat. I didn't start adding anything until AFTER I tried the CD 18, 20 and 22, HTP 126. It is an acceptable burn, with a zinc. There is no soot and the flame doesn't jump around as if starving for oxygen. There is just a tiny bit of hangup until the end. Then I get a full mp during the last 1/4. BUT, I am trying to make it even better! I may be getting a little to picky.....this is a new jar for me so just exploring all the options. I also think if it would burn slightly hotter the throw would get even better too. Does anyone use this jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Sounds like your zinc is doing a pretty good job so long as the container is not getting to hot. I looked up the jars which in one post you called Whisper Jars. If these are the same, they have a fair amount of shape to them. CandleWic lists them as 11 oz and a diameter of 3.5 inches. If these are not your could you post a picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertgibbens Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I think what Stella is trying to say (perhaps using too much tact), is that it is not likely possible to achieve a perfect FMP (1/2 inch deep) at the start and maintain it at the finish. Just not going to happen. More likely if you demand a FMP at the start your going to have a 1 to 1.5 inch deep FMP near the end, which is not "Better" for your buyer as the jar will be hotter than it should be, etc. You can spend months trying to get it "perfect", but as we all now, there is no such thing in candle making.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dana Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Yes, I am trying to get it perfect, lol. I am just afraid a customer will only burn it for 2 hours or so and get tunneling. But on the other hand if they burn it for 8 hours or even longer, it still does not get to hot, even at the last 1/4. So I am good with that. It was funny though because last night I had one burning on the kitchen table and my husband walked by and was like "Wow, that is really burning nice." He has NEVER said anything, not once in 8 years about how my candles burn. So I guess this is a keeper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I am just afraid a customer will only burn it for 2 hours or so and get tunneling.Give customers written instructions along with the ones contained on the warning label. That's all you can do because you have no control over what people do when the candle leaves your possession. This is why we test to insure that the candle is not SOOOO finicky that it can't perform reasonably safely and well despite a customer not following directions. Good luck! : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I use zinc wicks with the IGI 6006, no additives, 1oz. FO pp. They perform better than other wicks for me. When I started "playing" with the 6006, I tried CD, CDN, ECO, HTP, zinc, and LX. when it comes to IGI 6006, I will stick with good old reliable zincs, lolThey also work best and give me great throw with the paraffin I use on a regular basis (CBL129); they also work just fine with the 4786 (paraffin). Just remember to keep them trimmed. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I use zinc wicks with the IGI 6006, no additives, 1oz. FO pp. They perform better than other wicks for me. When I started "playing" with the 6006, I tried CD, CDN, ECO, HTP, zinc, and LX. when it comes to IGI 6006, I will stick with good old reliable zincs, lolThey also work best and give me great throw with the paraffin I use on a regular basis (CBL129); they also work just fine with the 4786 (paraffin). Just remember to keep them trimmed. HTHRavens....are you getting mushrooms with the zincs if they are kept trimmed in 6006? If the CDs I'm working on now don't make it, I am going to have to use a different wick on certain scents. I'm working with a 50/50 parasoy blend similar to 6006. I tried LX and with my wax/fragrances they aren't working at all. They burn very nice yet I smell a lot of wax and not much scent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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