First Test

[DreamCatchersDesign]

I used soy wax this time and used a 3 x 3.5 container.

I used Yellow/Sunlight/Canary Color and a Cinnemon Bun Scent (1 0z)

Cold throw was slightly scented while the hot throw was more a nicely soft scent that could be smelled through the whole house and the hallway.

[Misty]

Good start. How was the burn. How long did you burn it? What was your percentage of fragrance? What wick did you use?

I would make notes of all of this, and then keep records. Keep notes on each burn, to see how well the candle performs all the way to the end. Then you have a starting point for your next candle.

[Stella1952]

You should be burning your candles for 1 hour per inch of container diameter, extinguishing, then wait until the candle has COMPLETELY cooled before relighting. Trim the wick to 1/4" before each test burn. Record the weight of the candle before the first burn, then before each additional test burn so that you can compute the RoC (rate of consumption). Note the flame height, the quality of the flame (ie. sputtering, dancing, etc.); any sooting or smoking, etc. Note the diameter and depth of the MP right before extinguishing the candle. All of this information, along with the wick type/source/size, wax used/batch or lot number, FO/source/amount; dye color/type/source/amount and any other additives, their source and amount, should be recorded. HTH

[DreamCatchersDesign]

This is awesome information Stella!! Thank you!!

I burned it for an hour and the scent was all over the house and the hallway. I used 1 oz fragrance on 12 ounce soy wax. Hmm, the wick package only displays a number but I did order for 3-4 diameter. The only concern I have is that the wax does burn to one side of the container but leaves it untouched on a small piece of the other side of the container. Wick problem maybe?? I made two now with another kind of wick but want to cure the candles for a couple of days.

[Stella1952]

Make yourself some kind of form so you won't forget the information needed at each burn. It sounds like you bought some kind of kit. The percentage of FO you are using is more than I personally use (1 oz. per pound of wax). as for the wick type & size - you should be able to find out this specific information from your invoice or from the supplier from whom you bought the kit. The lop-sided burn is characteristic of a self-trimming wick. It curls to one side and that side is hotter than is the the side. I twist my wicks a few revolutions before I pour to correct this.

I am not so much concerned with the HT after an hour as I am the MP (diameter & width). If the candle is 3" in diameter (I am assuming that's what you meant when you said 3" x 3.5"), the test burns should be no less than 3 hours each.

Wick problem maybe?? I made two now with another kind of wick

Without knowing exactly what kind of wick, the size, and the other details (what kind of wax, etc.), there is no way to accurately answer this. You have to have the right information for us to give forth accurate suggestions and observations. Pictures are always helpful.

Please read more in the forums here. Candlemaking is a whole lot more than just melting wax and sticking in a wick and lighting it. Good luck with your testing.

[DreamCatchersDesign]

Hi Stella,

I used HTP-83 x6" natural and RRD-34/NTS2 x 6"

[rjdaines]

Hi Stella,

I used HTP-83 x6" natural and RRD-34/NTS2 x 6"

I like HTP wicks and they work well for me in the soy waxes I've tried. I use 2 HTP 83s for a 4" container so I am not surprised that a single has trouble melting 3". You may need to wick up to a HTP 104 or 105 but depends on how much wax is left unmelted. That said, one does have to wait until the bitter end to know for sure as the hottest part of the flame may still be above the wax. I have been impatient in the past and wicked up only to find that it was a mistake. Also, waxes will vary. I spent a lot of time wicking for CD-Advanced and all that data was worthless when I switched to GB 464. Best advise, get wick sample packs.

[EccoLights]

You should be burning your candles for 1 hour per inch of container diameter, extinguishing, then wait until the candle has COMPLETELY cooled before relighting. Trim the wick to 1/4" before each test burn. Record the weight of the candle before the first burn, then before each additional test burn so that you can compute the RoC (rate of consumption). Note the flame height, the quality of the flame (ie. sputtering, dancing, etc.); any sooting or smoking, etc. Note the diameter and depth of the MP right before extinguishing the candle. All of this information, along with the wick type/source/size, wax used/batch or lot number, FO/source/amount; dye color/type/source/amount and any other additives, their source and amount, should be recorded. HTH

I so want to go post this in our blog or on facebook and just be like LOOK! SEE WHAT WE HAVE TO GO THROUGH TO GIVE YOU GUYS GOOD CANDLES! =) But I would never do such a thing =) lol

[Stella1952]

I am not surprised that a single has trouble melting 3"

I have been single wicking 3" widemouth canning jars for years quite successfully using CDN 14s in NatureWax C3. I also single wick 4" containers with larger sized CDNs (22 & 24). I single wick large palm pillar candles with CDNs also.

DreamCatcher, stick with your testing to see what happens. Switching from wick to wick to wick will only make you crazy, especially at this point. You did not mention the type of soy wax you are using - it makes a difference. Once you get a little bit of a handle on what you are doing, then is a good time to test other wicks if you are dissatisfied with the results you are getting.